Paint Stripper ?

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Steph Boeker

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I'm trying to restore my 14'/54" aluminum (riveted) boat. I don't know what kind of paint is on it but it seems it was a really good job. It's old, thick and primed. I used Goof Off Pro Strength Remover (liquid), but it didn't do much at all. I had watched a YouTube video that showed a spray version used that was applied, wait 45 min and it all bubbled up to be pressure washed off easily. They actually used the "Graffiti" version or Goof Off Pro Strength Graffiti. I bought the wrong version. The version I got did say it would remove "latex" paint but didn't need any wait period and was to be applied by rag and rubbed. It didn't bubble the paint up and didn't remove much at all. Maybe my boat was painted w/ some sort of oil based or enamel type paint ??
I saw my mistake and purchased the "Graffiti" version. Will be here tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll be looking for advice on what to try next. I did buy 2 wire brush cups for my 4" grinder made of Stainless Steel as I've read that steel or brass wire cups would chemically affect the aluminum so it might not hold paints and/or sealers (Gator Glide & others) or become corrosive in time. I hate to think of grinding the boat.
Any suggestions ??
Thanks for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ..................
Steph (Louisiana)
336574344_125823943782739_2376798694111850684_n.jpg
 
I used a gel type paint remover when I did it, I didn't pressure wash but scraped it all, looking back I wish I had a pressure washer. It bubbled up like you said in the vid you watched and worked great, it removed the original Lund paint and the rattle can paint over it. I replaced it with implement paint after using an etching primer and it lasted for years until I sold it. There's a thread around here that documents the process I used
 
In my experience, all the modern paint strippers are terrible. Even the new formula of aircraft strippers recommends that it not be used on aircraft. lol
...but, that being said...
I've had the best luck using Citristrip Gel and covering it with saran wrap to keep it wet and working. You just have to keep checking on it and start the pressure washing and/or scraping as soon as it no longer will keep moist. The longer the better. If thick enough, I've had it to stay wet overnight at least.


xhbeBogVEwco_0-lkN3-Ljh5In-F2WLQ29H8eC8BDAonbh6Wx4xhQKwKqpbwjrRcU_5tEcznXfRMFsSdzfsqAtgvXncsmSaCkqARDyATIp7PGNwCVYOyxxs4WVX2Hk7pg7S3rS8C3iFMQKMwfv6qD-JeduNqGYapfarDnWfnm2ZvsZGhgNmb3H1N5KK5q62XHIMLMqtbK2xo5aSI2Hug7zWxpCSXcCMNCfybRUjVPrRY9F7Q30TTGqQqqskzJp0A5ro3guTC39JnwcWo0z0P2AIvd_ELzvVArcGQyVwUkltGdR_WNatffVj--VN0WASq0IxvW3h6tpQ9ZDvwG7BPRxmKcV8zWt9gYGUqb2GZtN1DIVY0i0Y6xBFfGH1Gk5FTMs06Rw8q3_O__W0gsgrrcZfPIeNXSBp9XUeI1eSYZLKrGWe6-wIRW6MwB_lvo1tH1xXqSMJKn617TM8rJvM85EagD0Yk5y65bRhww992epCSKQJAdQaieSVtLKIaUYwXzfiYYRDjQqAUOzGbiIA1R_eYBKLdPzgcAyZM6YyRKuIC3kOof6EP1ZCWMrxn0hZHl6jEOEmlDGuH4DgA5npNZOB7oSp3MyVd5ilQjQLYoD9wHKEe652HUDDWgL45wmAiVJC572EiAV9b25VOrMU4f7z9pNUu3sNtUAHrmGrMXsL15KOglZzKt4c29BJEL2GyAcboUKS-kyd9n5dNBIb56MYTDa-zDM2YOrhrTS_Oo4888RGRXoMb155PVs-D1yKn00JFoAm_2NkwggDzsFJfrHZn1vn67UTdXa6yK0mi0XPEsSg2nRbrx7OhhEGprKI-YfEgG0B_rzsW7FqcZtuFj9eVwRXZmLDc6uJvJCzgx883BpLJlqOAjTHkqpJJE4k2QM2xLGoMKIOztty8TJzt8PvmHKkhxu5B_yUHDB1wNl8zEw=w833-h625-s-no
 
I used a gel type paint remover when I did it, I didn't pressure wash but scraped it all, looking back I wish I had a pressure washer. It bubbled up like you said in the vid you watched and worked great, it removed the original Lund paint and the rattle can paint over it. I replaced it with implement paint after using an etching primer and it lasted for years until I sold it. There's a thread around here that documents the process I used
Thanks for the reply. If you can find a link for the product you used, I appreciate it if you shared it w/me.
Thanks again,
Sincerely ................
 
In my experience, all the modern paint strippers are terrible. Even the new formula of aircraft strippers recommends that it not be used on aircraft. lol
...but, that being said...
I've had the best luck using Citristrip Gel and covering it with saran wrap to keep it wet and working. You just have to keep checking on it and start the pressure washing and/or scraping as soon as it no longer will keep moist. The longer the better. If thick enough, I've had it to stay wet overnight at least.


xhbeBogVEwco_0-lkN3-Ljh5In-F2WLQ29H8eC8BDAonbh6Wx4xhQKwKqpbwjrRcU_5tEcznXfRMFsSdzfsqAtgvXncsmSaCkqARDyATIp7PGNwCVYOyxxs4WVX2Hk7pg7S3rS8C3iFMQKMwfv6qD-JeduNqGYapfarDnWfnm2ZvsZGhgNmb3H1N5KK5q62XHIMLMqtbK2xo5aSI2Hug7zWxpCSXcCMNCfybRUjVPrRY9F7Q30TTGqQqqskzJp0A5ro3guTC39JnwcWo0z0P2AIvd_ELzvVArcGQyVwUkltGdR_WNatffVj--VN0WASq0IxvW3h6tpQ9ZDvwG7BPRxmKcV8zWt9gYGUqb2GZtN1DIVY0i0Y6xBFfGH1Gk5FTMs06Rw8q3_O__W0gsgrrcZfPIeNXSBp9XUeI1eSYZLKrGWe6-wIRW6MwB_lvo1tH1xXqSMJKn617TM8rJvM85EagD0Yk5y65bRhww992epCSKQJAdQaieSVtLKIaUYwXzfiYYRDjQqAUOzGbiIA1R_eYBKLdPzgcAyZM6YyRKuIC3kOof6EP1ZCWMrxn0hZHl6jEOEmlDGuH4DgA5npNZOB7oSp3MyVd5ilQjQLYoD9wHKEe652HUDDWgL45wmAiVJC572EiAV9b25VOrMU4f7z9pNUu3sNtUAHrmGrMXsL15KOglZzKt4c29BJEL2GyAcboUKS-kyd9n5dNBIb56MYTDa-zDM2YOrhrTS_Oo4888RGRXoMb155PVs-D1yKn00JFoAm_2NkwggDzsFJfrHZn1vn67UTdXa6yK0mi0XPEsSg2nRbrx7OhhEGprKI-YfEgG0B_rzsW7FqcZtuFj9eVwRXZmLDc6uJvJCzgx883BpLJlqOAjTHkqpJJE4k2QM2xLGoMKIOztty8TJzt8PvmHKkhxu5B_yUHDB1wNl8zEw=w833-h625-s-no
Wow, sounds like quite the job.
Thanks for the reply,
Sincerely ...............
 
In my experience, all the modern paint strippers are terrible. Even the new formula of aircraft strippers recommends that it not be used on aircraft. lol
...but, that being said...
I've had the best luck using Citristrip Gel and covering it with saran wrap to keep it wet and working. You just have to keep checking on it and start the pressure washing and/or scraping as soon as it no longer will keep moist. The longer the better. If thick enough, I've had it to stay wet overnight at least.


xhbeBogVEwco_0-lkN3-Ljh5In-F2WLQ29H8eC8BDAonbh6Wx4xhQKwKqpbwjrRcU_5tEcznXfRMFsSdzfsqAtgvXncsmSaCkqARDyATIp7PGNwCVYOyxxs4WVX2Hk7pg7S3rS8C3iFMQKMwfv6qD-JeduNqGYapfarDnWfnm2ZvsZGhgNmb3H1N5KK5q62XHIMLMqtbK2xo5aSI2Hug7zWxpCSXcCMNCfybRUjVPrRY9F7Q30TTGqQqqskzJp0A5ro3guTC39JnwcWo0z0P2AIvd_ELzvVArcGQyVwUkltGdR_WNatffVj--VN0WASq0IxvW3h6tpQ9ZDvwG7BPRxmKcV8zWt9gYGUqb2GZtN1DIVY0i0Y6xBFfGH1Gk5FTMs06Rw8q3_O__W0gsgrrcZfPIeNXSBp9XUeI1eSYZLKrGWe6-wIRW6MwB_lvo1tH1xXqSMJKn617TM8rJvM85EagD0Yk5y65bRhww992epCSKQJAdQaieSVtLKIaUYwXzfiYYRDjQqAUOzGbiIA1R_eYBKLdPzgcAyZM6YyRKuIC3kOof6EP1ZCWMrxn0hZHl6jEOEmlDGuH4DgA5npNZOB7oSp3MyVd5ilQjQLYoD9wHKEe652HUDDWgL45wmAiVJC572EiAV9b25VOrMU4f7z9pNUu3sNtUAHrmGrMXsL15KOglZzKt4c29BJEL2GyAcboUKS-kyd9n5dNBIb56MYTDa-zDM2YOrhrTS_Oo4888RGRXoMb155PVs-D1yKn00JFoAm_2NkwggDzsFJfrHZn1vn67UTdXa6yK0mi0XPEsSg2nRbrx7OhhEGprKI-YfEgG0B_rzsW7FqcZtuFj9eVwRXZmLDc6uJvJCzgx883BpLJlqOAjTHkqpJJE4k2QM2xLGoMKIOztty8TJzt8PvmHKkhxu5B_yUHDB1wNl8zEw=w833-h625-s-no

I like the work chair. :)
 
Experimented awhile back stripping paint off an old car. Not thick, only one coat. Frustrating and slow. Ended up removing it with flapper discs and wire wheels. Had it all off in a few hours. Cheaper and no caustic mess to deal with. Seems to me the stripper is best suited for furniture. You sure you just don't want to scuff it up and paint over it? If the old paint is sticking well, I'd leave it on there.
 
Experimented awhile back stripping paint off an old car. Not thick, only one coat. Frustrating and slow. Ended up removing it with flapper discs and wire wheels. Had it all off in a few hours. Cheaper and no caustic mess to deal with. Seems to me the stripper is best suited for furniture. You sure you just don't want to scuff it up and paint over it? If the old paint is sticking well, I'd leave it on there.
That's more what I had in mind. When the 1st version of Goof Off didn't even dent it, I bought 2 SS wire cups for my grinder, and the Graffiti stuff I was trying to buy originally. The wire cup brushes came yesterday (day early) so I'm waiting for the Stripper (Graffiti) today. If it doesn't work, I'll try grinding it w/ the cups. Otherwise, the paint will show me it's bullet proof and will just sand and paint over. Why mess w/ a good thing ? Right ?
Thanks for your input,
Sincerely .....................
 
I use the Scotch-Brite-looking 5" discs for my mini-grinder. All plastic, and they're good. I get them at Harbor Freight. Might take two of them. No messy chemicals, no metal left on your tin boat. Wear a dust mask. TexasJim
 
Thanks , I'll run up there to HF and look for them. Although, I don't really think I'm trying to leave no metal. I mean the boat is aluminum :) I just want the paint removed :)
 
Why not sand it with 100 grit to remove the shine, and then prime or paint directly on the well-adhered finish?

IF the current paint is that solid, I personally would not be inclined to remove it. Looks like a great, well-adhered layer to cover with whatever you put on over it!

Wouldn't you hate it if you went through all that work to remove that well-adhered paint, only to put on a layer that DOESN'T adhere as well?


Plus, that paint helps seal the hull from leaking. Wouldn't you hate if you went through all that removal, to only find that the boat now seeps water, and then you will be posting questions about how to seal the bottom of the boat.


Again, you have a great, tough bottom coat already in place. Why not keep that advantage?
 
Why not sand it with 100 grit to remove the shine, and then prime or paint directly on the well-adhered finish?

IF the current paint is that solid, I personally would not be inclined to remove it. Looks like a great, well-adhered layer to cover with whatever you put on over it!

Wouldn't you hate it if you went through all that work to remove that well-adhered paint, only to put on a layer that DOESN'T adhere as well?


Plus, that paint helps seal the hull from leaking. Wouldn't you hate if you went through all that removal, to only find that the boat now seeps water, and then you will be posting questions about how to seal the bottom of the boat.


Again, you have a great, tough bottom coat already in place. Why not keep that advantage?
Yes, it's a good point that's been brought out above. 2nd time to date so I'm inclined to take the advice. I'd like to see what this "Graffiti" product will do , but anything left and I'll scuff and paint over it.
Thanks for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ................
 
Okay, the Graffiti Stripper I purchased came in and it did bubble up the paint well. Unfortunately, this boat was painted bullet proof w/ what looks like 3 different colors (or primer & paints). I knew it was a great job and is prolly why I got 1 or 2 coats off in the areas I sprayed on my first attempt. I'll try it again when it drys, but if it doesn't get down to the alum. next time, I can't afford to keep it up. I'll SS wire cup brush it w/ my 4-1/2" grinder and be done w/ it.
Here below are some pics & vids :

52812742535_4cf05f7fde_w.jpg52812783258_95eb1729e6_w.jpg
View attachment Boat p-wash 1.mp4
 
Okay, long story short :
2 kinds of stripper each worked to some weak degree on the outer 3 layers of paint, but never did anything on some type of glaze looking base or foundation they used 1st on the aluminum.
I used a stainless cup brush on my grinder but that did even less except did remove around rivets well.
Next I used paint eaters (4-1/2" hard scotch bright type discs) but they were hard on the alum. so I scratched that idea.
I finally tried my palm sander w/ 80 grit paper. That actually worked the best. I had 33 yrs in carpentry and wouldn't you know I'd try regular sanding last ?? (@$%^&*) I'm in the middle of finishing now.
Progress photos below :
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View attachment 341853000_5521341571300638_6700171680862421956_n.mp4
 

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Okay, so I've re-painted the inside of my Lone*Star w/Tuff Boat Paint. The color was lighter than I expected but all in all it turned out fine. I also addressed a split in the middle of my transom w/ a piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" alum. angle. I had a local fabricator weld it on w/ alum. stick weld ? It didn't look all that pretty at 1st but for $40. bucks I wasn't complaining. Who knows, I may need another favor in the future. Anyway, after I took my belt sander to it in a bit of touch-up, it turned out looking swell.
Gator slick the bottom, (base & paint) next. I've ordered the angle to frame out the floor for a flat area between the seats. It'll be arriving soon. Well, back to work.
 

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Seems to be coming along well. Was thinking of painting my Alumacraft in blue and white. I like how yours looks. Will the blue get hot in the sun though? I thought of using white inside, but would white always look dirty? Think I'm going to give it another coat of aluminum paint just because that would be simplest. Maybe with some blue highlights.
 
Seems to be coming along well. Was thinking of painting my Alumacraft in blue and white. I like how yours looks. Will the blue get hot in the sun though? I thought of using white inside, but would white always look dirty? Think I'm going to give it another coat of aluminum paint just because that would be simplest. Maybe with some blue highlights.
Well, It may very well get hot. I haven't really thought about it but, the boat had a Tuff Coat on it to begin with. Albeit, the outside was an awful bright blue paint which I stripped. The inside was a textured darker blue that was worn and ugly. At first I thought, "just put another coat on to clean it up" but this Tuff Coat blue is not as dark as the other. I like the texture but a lot will be cover up when I frame the floor and cover it, along w/ any boxes I add. At the price of this Tuff Coat, I don't have the ability to change the color. I've got a nice, thick, new & uniform coat on now. That's enough for me. It's not all that bad.
But, I picked out a white Bimini for purchase and I can always seek shelter under that. It will cover the whole back 1/2 of the boat. And, you don't ever want to geaux all day on a lake in South Louisiana w/out cover !! ............... and liquid refreshments .............. :) lol :)
 

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