points gap: .020 feeler vs ohm multimeter?

[LukeH]

Hello there, please link the thread to this if it already exists.

Regarding: 1962 evinrude 18hp fastwin points gap setting

My evinrude service manual says set the gap .020 and so that .022 CANT fit.

However ive seen many videos of people using the ohm setting (resistance check) on their multimeter, and the split second there is a gap in the points is where they set it (not using feeler gauges)

Which is correct? Or better? Is less than .020 okay?

Thanks

 

[Pappy]

If you have a timing pointer the VOM method is the way to go.
If you do not then pay fairly close attention to your .020 setting. By that I mean watch the articulating side of the points and when you slide the .020 feeler gauge in between the contacts the arm should not move out of the way to allow the feeler gauge in. That will be a very close setting.
Keep in mind that one of the main reasons for the .020 is setting dwell time or coil saturation time. Too much or too little can and will result in a weak spark.

 

[LukeH]

If you have a timing pointer the VOM method is the way to go.
If you do not then pay fairly close attention to your .020 setting. By that I mean watch the articulating side of the points and when you slide the .020 feeler gauge in between the contacts the arm should not move out of the way to allow the feeler gauge in. That will be a very close setting.
Keep in mind that one of the main reasons for the .020 is setting dwell time or coil saturation time. Too much or too little can and will result in a weak spark.

yeah i have the points tool from richardsoutboards.com. But i also saw people using the .020 feeler gauge method

so if less than .020 causes a weak spark, why do people love the VOM method? I tried it and i was worried because the gap is definitely smaller than .020 using that method

 

[airshot]

It can depend on a persons touch or feel. As a toolmaker for over 50 years, I sed feeler gages all the time so I had the feel for using them in precisely. Setting a .020 gap was easy and accurate, but if a person does not have the developed skills, it could easily be off. You have to figure out which method works best for your skill level. Some folks find a wire gage is easier to use than a flat feeler gage, just a different tool to try.

 

[LukeH]

It can depend on a persons touch or feel. As a toolmaker for over 50 years, I sed feeler gages all the time so I had the feel for using them in precisely. Setting a .020 gap was easy and accurate, but if a person does not have the developed skills, it could easily be off. You have to figure out which method works best for your skill level. Some folks find a wire gage is easier to use than a flat feeler gage, just a different tool to try.

Ack. Thanks. Is the IDEAL end result always .020 no matter the method?

 

[Pappy]

If you are at .020 that will get you very close to the timing mark that Richard's tool takes you to. Setting them with the tool assures your engine is firing at the proper time as well as being well in the ball park for a good hot spark.
I was looking for a reason for a weak spark on a belt driven magneto on a 1960 Evinrude V4. This system uses two sets of points to fire 4 cylinders so that means each set of points is firing 8000X/minute at 4000 RPM and doing this with a single coil. I started playing around with points gap and was the first time I actually could see the spark intensity change when I drifted a bit too far away from the .020 initial setting. Was pretty cool to actually be able to see it. The cam for points opening is a double lobe cam so points gap setting made a big difference in dwell time. Single condensor and the condensor wire is connected across both sets of points. Condensor for this set up is a .47Mfd instead of the normal .22mfd condensors you see in the 2 cylinder engines.

 

[Mudbugger]

I "think" that you are talking about two different parameters. The .020/.022 gap setting, determines the dwell. The time the points are closed, which allows the current to flow into the coil and saturate the windings.
The ohmmeter is used to determine the exact time of opening, setting the timing of the spark.
I will confess, I know very little about the tuning of outboards, only working on a few of my own, BUT I am quite experienced with working on point style automotive ignition systems, having done that for a living, for quite a number of years, even recently during our 21+ years, in the Crosley parts and service business.

 

[LDUBS]

I "think" that you are talking about two different parameters. The .020/.022 gap setting, determines the dwell. The time the points are closed, which allows the current to flow into the coil and saturate the windings.
The ohmmeter is used to determine the exact time of opening, setting the timing of the spark.
I will confess, I know very little about the tuning of outboards, only working on a few of my own, BUT I am quite experienced with working on point style automotive ignition systems, having done that for a living, for quite a number of years, even recently during our 21+ years, in the Crosley parts and service business.

I don't know anything at all about this subject, but I know what a Crosley is. They stopped making those about the time I was learning to walk!

 

[LukeH]

If you are at .020 that will get you very close to the timing mark that Richard's tool takes you to. Setting them with the tool assures your engine is firing at the proper time as well as being well in the ball park for a good hot spark.
I was looking for a reason for a weak spark on a belt driven magneto on a 1960 Evinrude V4. This system uses two sets of points to fire 4 cylinders so that means each set of points is firing 8000X/minute at 4000 RPM and doing this with a single coil. I started playing around with points gap and was the first time I actually could see the spark intensity change when I drifted a bit too far away from the .020 initial setting. Was pretty cool to actually be able to see it. The cam for points opening is a double lobe cam so points gap setting made a big difference in dwell time. Single condensor and the condensor wire is connected across both sets of points. Condensor for this set up is a .47Mfd instead of the normal .22mfd condensors you see in the 2 cylinder engines.

Understood, thank you for your reply. I will use combination ohmmeter and richards tool and .020... im sure that will land some good results. thanks

 

[LukeH]

I "think" that you are talking about two different parameters. The .020/.022 gap setting, determines the dwell. The time the points are closed, which allows the current to flow into the coil and saturate the windings.
The ohmmeter is used to determine the exact time of opening, setting the timing of the spark.
I will confess, I know very little about the tuning of outboards, only working on a few of my own, BUT I am quite experienced with working on point style automotive ignition systems, having done that for a living, for quite a number of years, even recently during our 21+ years, in the Crosley parts and service business.

understood. thank you for the clarification on this. very helpful

 

[Pappy]

Mudbugger....that is exactly what I was talking about.

 

[Mudbugger]

One last thing, before I crawl back into my burrow and continue to hibernate:
ALWAYS set the point gap/dwell FIRST, then set the timing.
Point gap/dwell affects the timing but the timing does NOT affect the point gap/dwell.
THEN adjust the carb.
It's easy to want to "touch-up" the carb setting, but make sure that the ignition is dead on first.
I won't go into details, about how I know this, but trust me, I do!