Problems with 82 Johnson 15 HP (miaden voyage faliure...)

[CMOS]

I will say about the same thing. If you tightened it as much as you could when you installed the spring, that definitely caused the problem. Remember this, when you pull the cord you will be further tightening the spring. Like kofcorn stated, it only needs to be tight enough to hold the handle in place when retracted but yet tight enough to retract all of the cord when you release it.

Okay, that makes sense. Now I am wondering if I damaged the spring's strength by winding it so tight - ?


CMOS

 

[rusty503]

I doubt it. I'm thinking if you didn't break it, it should be okay.

 

[kofkorn]

I'm certain you didn't damage the spring. A recoil spring like you have can be wound tight with affecting it. However, you could possibly damage the plastic pulley, and the cup (as you've already seen). Also check the end of the spring that engages the pulley. Make sure it didn't deform.

For the rest of the recoil spring, as long as it is wrapped (loose or tight) there really isn't any way to damage it. if you bend it when it is loose, then it would be very difficult to repair.

Good luck!

 

[CMOS]

Tell me about the roll pin on the bottom of the pulley. I don't understand where the pin should be with relationship to the spring end (and spring retainer) - ?

Maybe I assembled it improperly last time. I didn't worry about the pin. It just seemed to fit together.

?

CMOS

 

[Pappy]

Pin holds the other curled end of the spring in place so it winds and unwinds. After that you can load the spring through the slot. Manual should tell you this in detail.

 

[CMOS]

Pin holds the other curled end of the spring in place so it winds and unwinds. After that you can load the spring through the slot. Manual should tell you this in detail.

Pappy, I have the manual in front of me and as usual, it's lacking in detail. The only direction the manual gives with respect to the pin and spring is (Pg 7-11, c):

"Position Rewind spring and spring retainer in cup as shown in figure 7-39." (good so far)

"Place cup washer in cup. Install pulleyt making sure spring loop engages pulley as shown in figure 7-39." (This image does not show the spring end (and retainer) engaging the pulley - the 2 part are fully separate)

Does the pin in the pulley actually go inside the small j-hook loop in the end of the spring? My apologies for not understanding this. It's just not clear.


CMOS

 

[Sinkingfast]

Here is what my factory manual says..."Pull rope out as far as it will go. With rope fully extended, pull out loop end of starter spring, spring must be free to extend a minimum of 1/2 inch from cup."

The pic shows a screw driver behind the spring loop pulling the spring loop out 1/2 inch.

I gave mine a lot more slack in the spring. It works well.

 

[CMOS]

I see that - but it doesn't address where the roll pin on the pulley goes with respect the spring end.


CMOS

 

[Sinkingfast]

Posted fast without knowing you had a manual..oops..

My '76 has the spring loop anchor cast into the spool..no pin. I think this is yours.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1982&hp=15&model=E10SELCNS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Rewind+Starter

hope this helps..hope its not the same pic as in your manual..

Yes, spool pin goes into the spring end retainer and spring opening..the retainer probably goes on the outside of the spring.

 

[Sinkingfast]

Posted fast without knowing you had a manual..oops..

My '76 has the spring loop anchor cast into the spool..no pin. I think this is yours.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1982&hp=15&model=E10SELCNS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Rewind+Starter

hope this helps..hope its not the same pic as in your manual..

Yes, spool pin goes into the spring end retainer and spring opening..the retainer probably clips on the outside of the spring.

 

[CMOS]

Guys,

I will be rebuilding the starter this weekend.

Can someone answer my question about the fuel pump rebuild? I rebuilt this myself with a full kit. How do I test the Fuel Pump so I can verify I did the rebuild correctly? Note on Page 3 of this post I stated that when I did get the motor started, and rev'd the idle up for warm-up, it seemed to bod down and die as if it was starving for fuel.

Thoughts?

CMOS

 

[kofkorn]

Are you sure it's a fuel pump problem? Easy to diagnose, while motor is running, squeeze the primer bulb on the fuel tank. If the motor operates normally, then it is likely you have a fuel pump problem. If it doesn't change, then you still need to clean the carburetor. Again, easy to test by putting some pre-mixed fuel into a squeeze bottle. With the motor running, spray some into the carb. If you can keep the motor running this way, then you've confirmed a lack of fuel, plus eliminated the fuel pump.

To test the fuel pump, you should be able to blow air into the inlet with your mouth (use a clean piece of hose). If it is working correctly, the air should go through. There will be a restriction. Then do the same thing blowing into the outlet. You should not be able to blow air through the outlet. If either of these don't work properly, then you should consider a pump rebuild.

I recently had a 1975 15hp that would start and run shortly with the choke on. I could get it to run by feathering the choke. I had completely cleaned the carb and the jets a couple of times already. I even gave the carb to my brother who put the whole thing into a sonic carb cleaner. Still couldn't get it to run.

I had to drill out each of the core plugs and lead shot. Once I did that and ran about a whole can of carb cleaner through it, I started getting some hardened varnish out of the passage between the bowl and the idle jet. Took a long time, a bunch of air and a whole can of carb cleaner to finally get it all out.

Ran like a champ after.

Point is, even though the jets and needle valve are squeaky clean, there are still other possibilities of a blocked carb.

Good luck!

 

[CMOS]

kofkorn,

:wink: I guess I have to bring you up to date:

Carb has been fully cleaned and rebuilt with a kit.
Fuel Pump has been fully rebuilt with a kit.

Fuel pump does seem to work as you described with the "blow test". I even pulled the output line that goes to the carb off, and pulled the recoil starter a few times - and did get squirts of fuel out.

The ONLY thing I have not done that you mentioned was to drill out the lead plugs. I hope I do not have to do that but I do have to admit that when I rebuilt the carb there was some serious varnish in there. I did pull and replace the Welsh plugs when I did the rebuild.

Good input. Let me get the recoil starter rebuilt and try to start her again. If I continue to have issues I may have to remove the lead plugs and re-clean.

CMOS

 

[Pappy]

Lead plugs.
If you have the cast aluminum fuel bowl that feeds the idle circuit through a passage that runs from the center of the fuel bowl to the side of the bowl (with a lead shot in it) then up to the main body you may have to remove that one. Check and see if you have flow through that circuit if you havent already. Am assuming you removed the high speed jet.......?

 

[CMOS]

Lead plugs.
If you have the cast aluminum fuel bowl that feeds the idle circuit through a passage that runs from the center of the fuel bowl to the side of the bowl (with a lead shot in it) then up to the main body you may have to remove that one. Check and see if you have flow through that circuit if you havent already. Am assuming you removed the high speed jet.......?

Yes, I removed both the slow-speed and high speed jets and and cleaned everything I could, including removing and replacing the Welsh plugs, but did not remove the Lead plugs. My fuel bowl does not appear to be cast - it looks like stamped steel to me.

IIRC, there are 3 Lead plugs on my carb.

CMOS

 

[CMOS]

Okay, I about to rewind the spring into the lower cup but want to make sure I'm attaching the spring to the pulley properly. See pic below. Is this correct?

Before I wind the spring I'm also going to use some adhesive to affix the Cup Washer into the Cup Assembly based on a suggestion from LeeRoy on LeeRoy's Ramblings.

Also note the change in design to the Cup assembly, specifically the slot where the spring gets wound in to. Greatly reinforced.

CMOS

 

[Pappy]

Looks good so far. A little 50:1 oil or WD40 wiped onto the spring never hurts.
Correct length rope.
Should be good to go.
Reminder: On any rope start, never pull rewind to the end of the rope. If the engine won't start normally...............

 

[CMOS]

Well for the life of me I don't understand how I did what I did:

I just wound the spring and re-installed the starter. Per the manual, wound the rope CCW. However when I released the clamp on the Pulley the **** spring seems to be wound in the wrong direction - the pull handle and rope move OUT of the cowling rather than back in.

Can someone tell me how the heck I did this????? And, what do I need to correct it.

CMOS #-o

 

[Sinkingfast]

Yer kidding us...right..

turn pulley ccw to wind spring...correct?

 

[Sinkingfast]

Heres what I do..

Wind rope ccw, tuck in end slightly. Install pulley over spring, making sure pin engages spring. Install pivot bolt. Wind pulley ccw a turn or two. While wound, grab rope end and feed through guide. While holding rope out against spring, install handle.

That will get her done.

I did try the book way the first time so I feel your pain.