Project turned into a rebuild.

[LDUBS]

Yes sir. I saw that video. The top of my gunnel is round but I thought about either a small table for the level or on the seat next to me.

I think any flat surface will work as long as you put it back in that exact same place.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Got most of the wires ran to where I finally decided how I’m setting up the battery,fuse block and switch panel. It’s going to take up very little space and wires won’t be everywhere for someone to accidentally hook or drop stuff on getting in and out of storage. Inside the rear bench on the very end . A small battery (the 40 hp is pull start) the fuse block and turning the 6 gang panel vertically only takes up 8 1/4”x15” space. Ran just under 100 feet of 2/14 awg duplex marine wire so far. And don’t have enough to make another run to the bow for a small light bar in the future. I’m going to see what the shortest amount Ancor marine will sell.Good thing I bought a couple of small rolls of 16 awg for the led strip lights. All tinned copper wire. And tinned copper marine heat shrink connectors with heat shrink tubing over the fittings. With the adhesive that melts and seals the edges and connections. I remove the batteries every time I park the boat so I’m making a pig tail from trolling motor plugs and 8 awg wire. All I’ll have to do is unplug the battery from the fuse block. Two more 14 awg with bullet plugs for the sonar and bilge pump. Two things that need to run straight off the battery. The rest of the rear bench is storage where I built three padded seats with hinges for access. I have left overs from the flooring I built. I’m going to put foam board in the storage and wrap carpet (if I have enough) around painted 15/32 plywood. should cut down even more noise.
Since I am NOT putting any holes in the new floor I’ve painted a couple of pieces of plywood and will use spray adhesive and carpet them. Then I’ve cut and painted braces out of angle aluminum that will tie into the rear bench to mount the fuel tank and tie the other into the front deck for the trolling motor battery. More of those brackets will connect to the ribs as extra bracing to hold the floor in place. Oh and the fuel line is running over the rear bench seat , not cool. I’m running schedule 40 pipe through the bench and securing it then the fuel line through that. I tried but my 6.6 gallon portable tank will not fit behind the bench anywhere. Also completed installing the new Garmin.
Got in 5 more rod bases made to mount on top of round gunnels. They’ll be running all down the port side for side drift fishing. Later I’ll build a rod rack across the back of the boat to hold six rods then I won’t have to drift sideways if the wind is a little rough. Got the new rod holders with 1/2” stems coming from Fishbites.
Thats my update for now. Be hitting the wpater soon. Pictures coming up soon.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Well I got more wire so I laid out the extra line I wanted from bow to the compartment. Finally completed the end of the fish finder wiring with in line fuse going straight to the battery. Installed the bilge pump and separate float switch today (which will also be straight off the battery) using some flat aluminum I had bending it so I could attach to the boat with a rivets then the pump and switch to the aluminum. I didn’t want the aluminum I used to rub or vibrate on the floor so I cut pieces out of a thin plastic cutting board screwed it all together then spread a little 5200 on the plastic pieces and mounted them to the boat. I’ve got one led light strip to run under the gunwale then all the wiring is ran I can start typing in everything. The fuse block and switch panel will be mounted at that time.
It was a pretty warm day and the sun was bright. I touched a piece of black wire loom laying in the floor and man it fell hot. I got my ir gun and the sun was shining straight on the fish finder wire that I ran in the loom.
The ir gun said it was 121 degrees Fahrenheit on the outside. I may have to redo that if I can come up with a better option. I don’t know how much heat the Garmin wires can take. My wiring is the 105 degrees Celsius marine grade from Ancor. I’m going to eventually paint the inside and above the water line battleship gray. That may help cool the loom a little. I had my old wiring ran in black loom and never had trouble. It wasn’t even close to marine grade either it wasn’t Tinned or anything. I have other things I’ll be doing but for now I want to finish what I need to get me on the water. It’s taking a lot longer than I anticipated. It sounded good and looked good on paper. And all needed to be done. One thing I will be doing soon is since I can’t fit the fuel tank behind the rear bench it’ll have to keep riding in front of it with the line ran over the seat. I’m not running it through the electrical compartment in pvc. It was going to be big enough the fitting on the end of the fuel line could pass through Incase of an emergency but I don’t want to cut two holes that big in the bench then still worry about it being close to the electrical. It’s A1-15 line but still.
What I am going to do soon since the portable tank has to take up space in front of the seat I’m going to build a small removable table tall enough to shade the tank from the sun and the table will have a cutting board for bait. then it will at least be usable space.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Well I got more wire so I laid out the extra line I wanted from bow to the compartment. Finally completed the end of the fish finder wiring with in line fuse going straight to the battery. Installed the bilge pump and separate float switch today (which will also be straight off the battery) using some flat aluminum I had bending it so I could attach to the boat with a rivets then the pump and switch to the aluminum. I didn’t want the aluminum I used to rub or vibrate on the floor so I cut pieces out of a thin plastic cutting board screwed it all together then spread a little 5200 on the plastic pieces and mounted them to the boat. I’ve got one led light strip to run under the gunwale then all the wiring is ran I can start typing in everything. The fuse block and switch panel will be mounted at that time.
It was a pretty warm day and the sun was bright. I touched a piece of black wire loom laying in the floor and man it fell hot. I got my ir gun and the sun was shining straight on the fish finder wire that I ran in the loom.
The ir gun said it was 121 degrees Fahrenheit on the outside. I may have to redo that if I can come up with a better option. I don’t know how much heat the Garmin wires can take. My wiring is the 105 degrees Celsius marine grade from Ancor. I’m going to eventually paint the inside and above the water line battleship gray. That may help cool the loom a little. I had my old wiring ran in black loom and never had trouble. It wasn’t even close to marine grade either it wasn’t Tinned or anything. I have other things I’ll be doing but for now I want to finish what I need to get me on the water. It’s taking a lot longer than I anticipated. It sounded good and looked good on paper. And all needed to be done. One thing I will be doing soon is since I can’t fit the fuel tank behind the rear bench it’ll have to keep riding in front of it with the line ran over the seat. I’m not running it through the electrical compartment in pvc. It was going to be big enough the fitting on the end of the fuel line could pass through Incase of an emergency but I don’t want to cut two holes that big in the bench then still worry about it being close to the electrical. It’s A1-15 line but still.
What I am going to do soon since the portable tank has to take up space in front of the seat I’m going to build a small removable table tall enough to shade the tank from the sun and the table will have a cutting board for bait. then it will at least be usable space.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Got some more done today. I did all I could because the next couple days I’m working on the wife’s car. Got more wire ran. Now all I have to do is ad the last of the loom down one side. Installed the switch panel and fuse block today. Any new accessories you buy check there screws before you use them. The switch panel is supposed to be marine grade. The first screw snapped off and I had to drill it out. I checked and those screws jumped to a magnet and would rust out in no time. I replaced them with some stainless screws I try to keep around. I don’t even like stainless in aluminum. Where ever I can I’ll use aluminum Rivnuts to attach things.I’m using an 18ah sla battery since I don’t need a cranking battery. Instead of a shut off switch I installed a 8awg trolling motor plug coming out of the battery bow and for the fish finder and bilge pump that get power straight from the battery I’ll make plug in pig tails.
When I get home from fishing I have to completely unload the boat. Trolling motor, both batteries , fish finder , fuel tank etc. If I don’t we’ve had problems in our little subdivision of things growing legs and walking off. Someone tried to get into my shop one night but I keep it very secure. So I make things easy to detach. It sucks when I’m going right back out the next morning. But I had gotten good at getting the boat ready. I’m g to try to reorganize my shop so I can back the boat in. It’ll make it hard to get around in there but at least I could put it up when I’m about to use it again. Or leave it in there and pull it out when I’m working on something which is all the time.
Oh I haven’t even took it fishing yet but I already don’t like the carpet. I was going to switch and use vinyl but long story. When I cut the whole for the 6 gang switch panel I made a mess. No big deal I always grab the shop vac and clean up. I liked to have never got the aluminum out of the carpet. I think there’s still some in it. I’ll get it out when the Admiral is at work with her Rainbow vacuum cleaner. Or the reason I did the flooring the way I did I can unsnap it hand take it out. I’m going to have to anyway. I know there’s little pieces of wire insulation etc. That has worked its way past everything. When I’m finished with everything that is.
Just an update. There’s going to be picks of the new stuff when I’m done.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Figured I’d check in. Still chipping away at the finish line between finding more stuff wrong with the wife’s car etc.
Was just a matter of connecting everything and placing the wires in the fuse block. But I hit another small snag. My use very little space idea needed adjusting( everything under the rear bench starboard side takes up a15”x10” space). Before I was running like a kayak with an 18ah sla battery and never had a problem. I’ve opted to double the battery capacity since I plan on night fishing and added more accessories to the mix. I’m using a trolling motor plug for hooking and unhooking the battery because I remove it whenever I’m not using it. Also makes a good disconnect instead of a switch.
I took the smaller 18 ah and drilled an 1 1/2” hole in it to mount the plug and things got tight. With 8awg from the battery to fuse block I ended up with a maxi fuse holder for the battery fuse and it really puts the wire in a bind and I’m not comfortable with that. Since my fuel tank won’t fit between the bench seat and transom I decided I’ll drill my 1 1/2” hole there and mount the plug. Put a grommet in the battery box and let the battery ride in the transom space. I didn’t floor that area back there so I took a piece of left over 2” foam board from building the floor cut it to fit along with a piece of plywood today and painted them today. One side I’ll get the flip side done tomorrow. I’ll adhere the foam board to the plywood and use a piece of aluminum angle (also painted) by attaching the angle to the bench with a rivnut and thumb screw and attach it to the top of the plywood and there’s a place to mount my battery strap. When I clean the boat I will remove the thumb screw and take it out just like my floor. And make it so when I sneak that bigger battery in it’ll fit.
And after connecting one of the led flood lights today I started on the anchor light in the same area. I removed the base so I could run wire through the hole and the little gauge wires on the thing are rotted and brittle. So great I’m already in the doghouse and have to get one of these. Oh well can’t be much. I I want to make sure it matches the holes that are there. So I turned it over and it said Attwood with the part number and pulled out my phone. Almost $30 just for that base. So after I’m done here I’ll start shopping. The led light pole I bought didn’t fit right anyway but it worked.
I also noticed the new transducer cable looked like it was getting kinked going over the transom. But it’s not tight and the boat cover doesn’t even touch it. Then I noticed where it runs down the side of the gunwale it has what looks like kinks trying to form. I ran it with tie straps and gave it some room so as not to pull it to tight.
I think I’ll rerun it in a loom like everything else.
There’s my update. And I told myself I’d keep this one short.
Sorry about my rambling. I’m the guy that used to say just like a politician. Talk all day and don’t say a thing.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Another change order. Lol
I have quite a bit of the 2” pink foam board left I used underneath the floor so I’m trying to use it where I can because the more flotation the better.
I cut and laid it in the bottom inside the rear bench (my storage) and topped with 15/32” plywood also leftover.
On the starboard side at the very end of the storage is where all the electrical is. The battery cable comes in to the fuse block and switch panel is right there.
I was moving around some or the foam board pieces in my shop yesterday and started reading things on it out of curiosity because I’m really happy with how firm this stuff is. I found a caution on it that says it’s combustible. So I looked up the MSDS. This stuff releases gasses and it says to keep away from sparks,flames, and statin electricity.
I just lined the floor with it underneath all the electrical.
I’m going to remove it from the electrical only and either just leave the plywood or find something different to go between it and the aluminum.
I’ll leave the board in the rest of the bench and put a wall between the electrical and the rest of the bench. I’ll make it out of aluminum and seal it so nothing from the foam board can seep in there. At least not to be dangerous with the ventilation.
I had also just cut a piece of the foam board with a plywood to fit. Painted both (acrylic for the foam by the way)and going to attach the foam and plywood together with adhesive then use a piece of aluminum angle to attach the plywood to the rear of the bench outside between the transom and bench. This is to attach the new battery to since there’s no floor back there and it’ll also put the battery up off the floor that much higher. I think I’ll leave it since it’s out in the open and has the plywood barrier and battery in a box.
I had no idea this stuff was combustible. I know a lot of other tin boat owners used it to build there floors. Even line the walls.
I carry a fire extinguisher mounted to the front deck. I think I’ll get another one to keep in the back of the boat as well. I’ve got plyWood cut and painted for platforms for the trolling battery behind the front deck and portable fuel tank in front of the rear bench. So I don’t have to screw into the new floor. I thought about putting foam under them as well but that was a bad idea in the first place if that foam rubs or vibrates a little sitting on the carpet there’s my static electricity. I’ll just stick with plywood on those two which will be attached the same way with aluminum angle and rivnuts so everything is removable for cleaning.
So new building a barrier wall between the electrical and rest of storage. Finish connecting all the wiring and wire the new battery. Installing trolling a battery and fuel tank platforms. Oh last thing is mount the new rod carrier on the starboard gunwale and the new holders on top of the port side. Changing the fuel water separator because it has sit a while even though it use none ethanol and treat my fuel you never know what’s coming out of that pump. and inspect the rest of the fuel system and engine. Which should check out because it’s all new fuel system I put in and plugs , all the regular maintenance done (new thermostat, water pump lower unit oil which I still may change) before I started on the boat but it will all be looked at on the 1992 Yamaha. I should have started the motor every now and then while working on the boat but I don’t like 2 cycle fuel sitting in a tank for a year and running it. It started and ran fine after 6 months so I’m counting on it after these past 6 months. Oh I had completely rebuilt all three carburetors too is why I’m hoping they’re ok after sitting.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Finished the car today!
Next two days are busy but Saturday is supposed to be nice weather and I’m starting on the boat at daylight and see how close I get to the finish line.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I got my battery set up. I’ve been using a small 18ah sla deep cycle for everything since my motor is pull start.
I never ran it down much. All it had pulling on it in the day was a fish finder and it ran that all day with out loosing any power. Used it after dark a few times on navigation lights and led flood lights at the ramp. Again no drain.
Since I’ve adding lights and plan on night fishing I made a change.
I got a 35ah sla deep cycle. Purchased a big battery box with a divider so it can hold different series of marine batteries. With the divider in the right place and a little pool noodle padding I can get both batteries in it perfectly. I’ll dedicate the smaller one to the fish finder only and the 35 will be the main power.
Now placement? I was going to put it right behind the bench where the fuse block and switch panel are. But that puts me in another fuel question.
My fuel water separator is mounted in the corner of the transom on that side and the primer bulb is right there also. Plan B is to put the battery box in front of the motor between the braces where the fuel tank wouldn’t fit.
It’ll mean adding a couple more feet of main power wire but I’m using 8awg and did the math. I’m still plenty good. I’ll have to undo the fish finder and bilge pump that go straight to the battery but in the end it’ll shorten their length of wire. Except I have the bilge pump switch installed in the panel and that power wire is the one with a inline fuse going to the battery. Man I hate having to redo things that’s time I could’ve spent moving forward. I’ll have to figure out how to run the wires to the middle to stay out of the storage space.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I’m finished!!!!
All the wiring is done. Trolling battery and 18ah sla fish finder battery are in the same box just behind the deck. The house battery a 35ah sla is in a U1 box inside the rear bench with the wiring. All taking up very little space.
Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot about marine wiring and have piece of mind that it’s safe and will last until I can’t fish anymore.
Now to mount my Fishbite 1/2” threaded rod holders. Then I noticed a couple of things I want to address on the trailer so I’ll go down to our lake hear in the subdivision one day and float the boat while I make some adjustments. A couple more add on items for the boat and I’m going fishing. Next phase in a few months or so I’ll rebuild the front deck and paint the boat.
Front light is to be used every now and then for a few seconds to navigate in the dark and the rear flood lights at the dock loading the boat. Blue leds to see by night fishing.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Decided since I’m waiting on parts for the neighbors lawn tractor and I can work on the wife’s car tomorrow. I’m going to see if I can’t put some finishing touches on my boat. Mount new rod holders etc.
One thing I want to do is build some type of cover that shades the portable fuel tank. It’s going to be on a piece of plywood I painted which will be attached to the front of the rear bench. I’ve got plywood,aluminum,some aluminum angle etc. I want to build something that I can attach to the plywood and maybe also come off the front of the bench. A little bit taller than the fuel tank and be able to use it for a cut bait table, maybe add a drink holder.
I have the material but for some reason can’t wrap my head around an idea how to do this. It shouldn’t be hard . I just need a place to start.
If anyone has any ideas please share them with me. Or has anyone done something similar?
I’m trying to make everything I do to the boat look as good as possible but I’m not a carpenter. I can cut a board three times and it is still to short.
I can build if I have something to fallow but from scratch seems to be difficult for me. I’m more comfortable with a wrench in my hand and carburetors etc.
See what y’all can think of please. I’m going to see if I have a picture to post of what I’m talking about. If not I’ll have one this afternoon.
Thanks: Doug
This is it on the plywood platform in the middle but since then it’s going to be on the port side closer to the gunnel.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Well I mounted a few rod holder mounts that where supposed to fit the round top of the gunnels.
Ever time I start to do something different I learn from a mistake. I bought five mounts for the round gunnels months ago because they where on clearance and they where Driftmaster for 1/2” rod holders. I got my rod holders from Fishbites which came with flat mounts for stern and front deck. First I made sure the holders fit the mounts. The threads where the correct size but I had to run a tap on all the Driftmasters because they weren’t threaded very well. The Fishbite mounts spun freely on the holders and are a lot more heavy duty. I get all the threads straightened out.
I’m using 1/4-20 aluminum Rivnuts for mounting. I made sure the mount was centered even using a torpedo level. Center punched the holes. Drilled pilot holes then used a 13/64 bit to fit the Rivnuts.
Well I found out the rounded top on the gunnel tucks back under a fare amount on the outside. The Rivnuts wouldn’t seal all the way around but I did the best I could with it and when I put on the holder which has two different angles. 5 degrees and 30 degrees. Stuck a rod in it and it was more like -1 degrees instead of 5 .
I’m thinking it’s all because the Rivnuts wouldn’t mount perfectly straight. I figured it out on the second mount and drilled on down into the other side of the gunnel a little. They secured correctly and looked like they were where they needed to be. When I installed the mount it looked like it was leaned back a little. Put a rod holder in and a rod. Now this one instead of five degrees it’s more like 15 and the 30 degrees spot put the rod up way to high. So I finally put my glasses on and the mounts aren’t fitting around the tops of the Rivnuts. I wished I would have bought Fishbites round gunnel mounts instead of trying to save $20. I still may and replace these.
I stopped and came inside. I’ll figure out how to straighten up the two tomorrow. I did drill counter sink holes in the bottom of the second mount so it fits the rim of the Rivnuts. Still have to fix the angle. I’ll be glad when I’m able to put a rack across the stern.
Hopefully I’ll be posting pictures of the boat tomorrow with all the holders and rigged out.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Here’s some pictures. Like the monkey said when he caught his tail in a fan. It won’t be long know!
All the gunnel mounts are where I want them. I have some flat bases I’ll be putting on the front deck. I was thinking of the corners of the transom also but I’ll be changing everything up after fishing a while and taking a break from working on the boat and use it. I’ll be rebuilding the front deck and probably getting some T bars and a rack for rod holders across the stern if I don’t put T bars back there as well. And finally painting the old boat.
Check out the first thing I did when I got the boat.
I already had a Min Kota 55# digital but it’s a tiller steer. So I come up with this bracket I built from 3/4” plywood I had. Then reversed the head on the tm. Wired me in a button on the floor and it works awesome.
All I have to do now is build a box I’ll use to keep the portable fuel tank shaded and use the top for cutting bait. Mount the tm battery. I’m also going to go to our little neighborhood lake and float the boat. Making sure there are no leaks after all I had to do to it. But I’m confident it’s sea worthy. While it’s in the water I’m going to make a few adjustments to the trailer and replace some bolts.
Then I’ll load it up with my gear and go to a real lake and enjoy the piece and fish hard.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Man, all I have to do is build my little table for cutting bait which will also provide shade for the portable fuel tank and mount two battery boxes. Go float it to check for leaks after everything I did to it and adjust a couple things on the trailer at the same time.
Boom have to work on the wife’s car again and the neighbors own tractor that sit outside for 2 years. At least the neighbor isn’t in a hurry so I can rotate between it and the boat.
I’ve pretty much missed the spring fishing here in Texas but that’s why I rigged it for night fishing and got a big green led submergible light coming.
Been feeding the blue gill oatmeal regularly down at our 30 acre subdivision lake so I can catch bait with no problem. Get ready Mr. Flathead.

 

[LDUBS]

I don't think it is ever over when it comes to our boats. I have a box of stuff waiting for me to install (tach, more rod holder mounts, etc.). Just for the fun of it I might also neaten up the wiring under the dash (blaming that on your posts). All in good time. Haha.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I don't think it is ever over when it comes to our boats. I have a box of stuff waiting for me to install (tach, more rod holder mounts, etc.). Just for the fun of it I might also neaten up the wiring under the dash (blaming that on your posts). All in good time. Haha.

You’re correct sir. I still have to paint,rebuild the front deck and take it off the trailer flip it and do the bottom. I’m sure I’ll add as I go.