Project turned into a rebuild.

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Has anyone ever used Velcro or a similar product to attach something to their tin boat? I used two small pieces of Velcro alpha lock on each seat on the corners and haven’t had to use any latches. This stuff is tough. I still have to get a good grip to raise the seats to get to my storage. The reason I’m asking is when I reattach my rod holders to the gunnel wall I’m thinking of using it instead of holes in the ribs. The adhesive is takes acetone if you want to remove the stuff so it’s stout itself. Just wondering if it’ll stick as good to my nylon Boat buckle rod holders?
 
Yep, my tinnie is long gone, but had lots of good times in it. Being a typical rowboat style with the flotation enclosed tank style seats, it was simple to add aluminum angle to the sides of the seats and just lay my 5 ply 5/8" plywood down into the angle aluminum. A couple of sheetmetal screws held the floor in place. The boat was deep enough that adding a piece of plywood level with the seat top made plenty of space for fuel tank on one side and battery on the other side ( both as far forward as space allowed) made the weight balance near perfect. Added some very short napped carpet to make everything soundproof. The shelves over the tank and battery made great working surfaces!! All was easy to do with alum angle ( light duty) screws and some pop rivets. I found a set of jumper cables on sale that were 12' in length for less money than just buying the wire its self. Cut and added new ends and ready to go. After the holidays are over your gonna see lots of sales on winter items, keep a look out for jumper cables!!!
 
Now I’m asking for ideas to secure my 6 gallon portable fuel tank that doesn’t fit between the rear bench and transom. Instead I have to put it in front of the rear bench. The motor is pull start but I need to put a deep cycle battery just behind the front deck for my trolling motor. How can I secure these without putting holes in the new floor?
Is there a way to secure the tank to the aluminum bench. Same question for the battery against the front deck. The battery for lights , electronics etc. is a SLA that goes under the bench seat.

Seems your rear bench has a vertical panel down to the floor. A hold down strap through brackets mounted on the vertical seat box might work.
 
Yep, my tinnie is long gone, but had lots of good times in it. Being a typical rowboat style with the flotation enclosed tank style seats, it was simple to add aluminum angle to the sides of the seats and just lay my 5 ply 5/8" plywood down into the angle aluminum. A couple of sheetmetal screws held the floor in place. The boat was deep enough that adding a piece of plywood level with the seat top made plenty of space for fuel tank on one side and battery on the other side ( both as far forward as space allowed) made the weight balance near perfect. Added some very short napped carpet to make everything soundproof. The shelves over the tank and battery made great working surfaces!! All was easy to do with alum angle ( light duty) screws and some pop rivets. I found a set of jumper cables on sale that were 12' in length for less money than just buying the wire its self. Cut and added new ends and ready to go. After the holidays are over your gonna see lots of sales on winter items, keep a look out for jumper cables!!!
Awesome. I picked up some angle today and after figuring how I was going to build a home for the fuel tank and still leaving room for my wife’s little feet and run the fuel line so it doesn’t go over the seat anymore. I got the idea to mount a removable cutting board and securing a knife sheath safely on the gunnel so I’ll have a place to cut bait. I’m mounting a piece of angle to the seat and I’ll get a cheap plastic fiber cutting board from Walmart and walla. The angle will be mounted with rivnuts again and knobs on the screws so I can remove it, rinse it off and store it if need be. I’ll keep an eye out for those cables. It’s going to be about a 14’ plus run.
Thanks again for all the replies. I’ll be posting pictures of my progress as I go. And I still have a ways to go but it’s time to take a break while it’s sea worthy and enjoy fishing out of it for a while. It’s the time of year to go big cat hunting.
 
Seems your rear bench has a vertical panel down to the floor. A hold down strap through brackets mounted on the vertical seat box might work.
I appreciate all the replies. After getting some angle today and looking at it I was thinking about attaching a removable 15/32 small plywood platform to the seat with the angle and have it fare enough away so my wife has room for her feet when she goes with me.
She is the one that started this whole thing the day she told me she’d been saving money for a while and let’s get me a boat. She even told me to go get a good cover for Christmas. That’s why I ended up putting in the carpet and not switching to vinyl. I’m redoing the front deck next and it’s going to be vinyl. I heard it’s hard to find an adhesive that works after using penetrating epoxy on the plywood. You wouldn’t happen to have some wisdom on that would you? I have enough epoxy left to do the deck.
 
I appreciate all the replies. After getting some angle today and looking at it I was thinking about attaching a removable 15/32 small plywood platform to the seat with the angle and have it fare enough away so my wife has room for her feet when she goes with me.
She is the one that started this whole thing the day she told me she’d been saving money for a while and let’s get me a boat. She even told me to go get a good cover for Christmas. That’s why I ended up putting in the carpet and not switching to vinyl. I’m redoing the front deck next and it’s going to be vinyl. I heard it’s hard to find an adhesive that works after using penetrating epoxy on the plywood. You wouldn’t happen to have some wisdom on that would you? I have enough epoxy left to do the deck.

"You wouldn’t happen to have some wisdom on that would you?"

I honestly don't know. Maybe ask the folks at TotalBoat?
 
I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas!
So much for throwing the battery and fuel tank in and going fishing. I didn’t want to make any holes then later move the battery. I bit the bullet and have 25’ of 4awg cable coming and the battery is going to be in aft of the boat under the motor. I drive the tiller from the starboard side and the fuel tank is on port side. I don know if it’ll fit running through the top of the ribs on the gunnels like I have the other wires ran on opposite side. I have everything els in a wire loom I’d like to protect this stuff somehow also. I ordered all the connectors I need and the cheaper crimping tool you use with a hammer. A new 6 gang rocker switch panel for all the other electrical instead of the plug and play set up which I think I’m plugging in the bow light and get blinded by a led flood light. It’s a mess. But it’s all located together so it will be easy wiring in the new panel. I’m trying to decide if I want to cut the hole in the bench seal or figure out how to put it in a weather proof box and put a plate by the transom in the corner and mount it there. Also more hardware like thumb screws to make it easy to install and remove the bait cutting board , fuel tank platform etc. I dropped another $200. If y’all here a big explosion in Texas my wife looked at the Amazon account. Lol She hasn’t complained not once. Yet that is.
 
I used Velcro to hold my battery in place that I use for the fish finder. Works great and I can remove it when required quite easily. Might work for your gas tank since you're going to be removing it now and again.
Thanks for the input. I have the fuel tank figured out I think. But you just gave me an excellent idea for my small sla battery that runs the electrical. Thank you.
 
Whether carpet or vinyl, consider a good cover for your boat....nothing ages a boat and its equipment faster than sitting outside !!! A family that lives a few miles away bought a brand new I/O 19-19' runabout some years back, the original cover was damaged in a windstorm the following year but the boat still sat outside.. They tilted it back and removed the drain plug.." after all a boat is made to be outside"...within a 3 year period, the transom was rotted, the upholstery was damaged and they didnt get the motor winterized until it was to late!!! After 4 years the boat was junk and yes they were still making payments on it. They blamed everything on it veing a cheap poorly made boat, manufacturers defects and every other excuse they could think of....if they had just spent a few hundred bucks to get a good cover made !!! Unfortunately today the boat is still sitting in their backyard, about ten years since it was new, filled with leaves and debris, to expensive to take it to the dump and dispose of it.....just wondering if it is paid for yet ??
 
Whether carpet or vinyl, consider a good cover for your boat....nothing ages a boat and its equipment faster than sitting outside !!! A family that lives a few miles away bought a brand new I/O 19-19' runabout some years back, the original cover was damaged in a windstorm the following year but the boat still sat outside.. They tilted it back and removed the drain plug.." after all a boat is made to be outside"...within a 3 year period, the transom was rotted, the upholstery was damaged and they didnt get the motor winterized until it was to late!!! After 4 years the boat was junk and yes they were still making payments on it. They blamed everything on it veing a cheap poorly made boat, manufacturers defects and every other excuse they could think of....if they had just spent a few hundred bucks to get a good cover made !!! Unfortunately today the boat is still sitting in their backyard, about ten years since it was new, filled with leaves and debris, to expensive to take it to the dump and dispose of it.....just wondering if it is paid for yet ??
I just got rid of the Academy cover and got a Carver styled to fit Sundura cover that fits like a glove. I had a good cover on the motor but the Carver covers it too. Only had it a couple weeks but it sheds water like a ducks back. Way better material than what I had. I just finished the floor and spending more on a switch panel and cable to move the trolling motor battery to the back. Going to have a new deck,eventually new transom. That cover is going to pay for itself. Another important thing is I’ll be keeping that cover cleaned and treated. Most important thing is everything on a boat needs maintenance and I’m a big believer in preventative maintenance.
Thanks for the reply. Happy boating to ya.533B43F5-B722-4BC1-B317-22FCA63EC0F7.jpeg
 
I just got rid of the Academy cover and got a Carver styled to fit Sundura cover that fits like a glove. I had a good cover on the motor but the Carver covers it too. Only had it a couple weeks but it sheds water like a ducks back. Way better material than what I had. I just finished the floor and spending more on a switch panel and cable to move the trolling motor battery to the back. Going to have a new deck,eventually new transom. That cover is going to pay for itself. Another important thing is I’ll be keeping that cover cleaned and treated. Most important thing is everything on a boat needs maintenance and I’m a big believer in preventative maintenance.
Thanks for the reply. Happy boating to ya.View attachment 113136
Going to have some storm this afternoon. This will be the first test. It’s already held up to some high north winds and a hard freeze.
 
Next topic: I still have a lot of installation work inside the boat first but want to paint the rest of the boat. The existing paint is a little chalky but I can sand a little and hit solid paint to paint over. This has to be low budget. I’ve read about people using acrylic enamel house paint that works on enamel. I have a quart of Valspar Duramax flex shield that actually says on the can it works on metal and aluminum. I had it tinted to match the carpet for things I’ll be doing around the floor. Some of it is pieces of aluminum angle I’ll scuff prime then try the Valspar on it.
Anyone have any experience painting a boat on a budget? I want to paint the inside and out above the waterline.
 
I have used rustoleum oil based enamal in both brush on and spray with great sucess on aluminum boats. Having a trailered boat vs one that sits in the water all season gives greater flexibility in paint choices. Preperation is everything, poor prep will make the very best paint fail !
I would never trust an interior or house paint on my aluminum boat, unless you really enjoy painting.....
 
I have used rustoleum oil based enamal in both brush on and spray with great sucess on aluminum boats. Having a trailered boat vs one that sits in the water all season gives greater flexibility in paint choices. Preperation is everything, poor prep will make the very best paint fail !
I would never trust an interior or house paint on my aluminum boat, unless you really enjoy painting.....
Thanks for your reply. I needed it before I made a big mistake.This is exterior supposed to be good for all sorts of applications but we know aluminum boats are different animals. That’s why I asked. I like Rustoleum paint but I only see it available in a few colors and haven’t seen a base for tint. I may just have to settle for something they have. I like the camo but I think it’s only in a rattle can.
Did you use the Stops Rust or something different?
 
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Thanks for your reply. I needed it before I made a big mistake.This is exterior supposed to be good for all sorts of applications but we know aluminum boats are different animals. That’s why I asked. I like Rustoleum paint but I only see it available in a few colors and haven’t seen a base for tint. I may just have to settle for something they have. I like the camo but I think it’s only in a rattle can.
Did you use the Stops Rust or something different?
Well I found the camouflage in quarts but found out it’s water based.
 
Most all rustoleum paint claims to stop rust from what I have saw. I used the hunter green because it matches in both rattle can and the brush on paint. Years back, I had a Starcraft in ugly pea green that I couldn't stand, used an auto paint rattle can in metallic brown that turned out real well !! The bottom was natural alum so I left that alone. Had many compliments on the metallic brown !!
 

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