Repainting cowlings

[wmk0002]

Yall have any tips for repainting cowlings to look OEM? I'd also be interested in tips to do camo paint job on them. I have about 7 or 8 cowlings off of various year Yamaha 25s (2cyl, 2 carb models). Most all are in decent shape as far as as the condition of the fiberglass. A couple have some small gouges. A few are just severely sun faded. I'd ultimately like make 3-4 of them look like brand new oem cowls, keeping the best one I do for myself for my personal motor and putting the others on some I'm rebuilding. I thought I may try a camo job on a couple just for fun. Any advice on the prep and painting itself would be appreciated as well as any suggestions on where to purchase paint, new seals, and graphics.

 

[Pappy]

Yamaha has the OEM paint in spray cans. I have done several gearcases with this and they come out well and look great. Prep was the key.
You are on your own on the camo. It takes away from the engine value for sure as most camo engines have "been thgough it".

 

[MrGiggles]

For camo I'd try vinyl wrap instead of paint. It'll be more expensive, but can be peeled off without damaging the original finish and it looks better.

 

[wmk0002]

Yamaha has the OEM paint in spray cans. I have done several gearcases with this and they come out well and look great. Prep was the key.
You are on your own on the camo. It takes away from the engine value for sure as most camo engines have "been thgough it".

Good to know on the gear cases. 3 out of 4 of my gearcases are all pretty nice cosmetically but one is super rough. I just resealed it though and it's perfect mechanically so I plan to try and pretty it up as well. Do you use a clear coat on the gearcase and other parts like I assume you would on a fiberglass cowl?

I'm skeptical on the camo too. But I thought it would be interesting to try and then may be easier to sell just the cowling by itself to someone who doesn't need one but may like an extra for hunting. Here in Alabama, you wear orange/blue, crimson/white, or camo lol. For those who feel like dressing up, they break out the Columbia PFG lol.

 

[wmk0002]

For camo I'd try vinyl wrap instead of paint. It'll be more expensive, but can be peeled off without damaging the original finish and it looks better.

Good idea. I'll look into that.

 

[DaleH]

FYI, after using the OEM color-matched spray, I find a few coats of 'clear ' really makes them shine!

 

[wmk0002]

FYI, after using the OEM color-matched spray, I find a few coats of 'clear ' really makes them shine!

Thanks Dale! Maybe a stupid question, but do you apply a coat on top of the decals or are decals the last step?

 

[DaleH]

Maybe a stupid question, but do you apply a coat on top of the decals or are decals the last step?

Mine all had existing decals, but I masked them off with same blue painters tape that covered them when painting the cowling/hood.

 

[Pappy]

Where are you in North Alabama.
BTW - Not all clear coats are created equal. There are some good single part clears that are super hard out there.
I do not clear coat a gearcase. I do let the paint harden for a long time before putting it into service though.
On decals I did some reading and found a trick that I use.
When I re-do fuel tanks I always use vinyl decals. These are notorious for wrinkling and peeling if clear coated. However........
the trick is to just ever so lightly mist the clear over the decal first and let it dry. Mist a second coat and let dry. Do a third as necessary. Should look like orange peel at best. Once at this stage you can do a good coat and a second over the decals and they will stay put and look great.

 

[wmk0002]

Where are you in North Alabama.
BTW - Not all clear coats are created equal. There are some good single part clears that are super hard out there.
I do not clear coat a gearcase. I do let the paint harden for a long time before putting it into service though.
On decals I did some reading and found a trick that I use.
When I re-do fuel tanks I always use vinyl decals. These are notorious for wrinkling and peeling if clear coated. However........
the trick is to just ever so lightly mist the clear over the decal first and let it dry. Mist a second coat and let dry. Do a third as necessary. Should look like orange peel at best. Once at this stage you can do a good coat and a second over the decals and they will stay put and look great.

Good advice! I'll try that.

I'm in north central Alabama (between Birmingham and Huntsville).

 

[wmk0002]

I bought a few cans of the Yamalube 08D paint. Wasn't too bad at $9/can. Guess that 8D is technically the color on the later year models but I like the slightly darker look vs the older ones that were more silver. I'm researching clear coats now. May try some automotive 2k clear but I will have to buy the PPE to go along with that. As for the primer, I'll probably just grab some dupli-color or rustoleum filler type primer. Hoping to get all the materials and give it a try next week sometime when it warms back up.

Any recommendations on getting new decals/graphics that are close to oem?

 

[Pappy]

Several people make replica emblems.
Poke around Ebay for a few minutes and you will see plenty,.

 

[wmk0002]

Several people make replica emblems.
Poke around Ebay for a few minutes and you will see plenty,.

I found a few to choose from on Ebay. Thanks.

I think prior to tackling a cowling, I'm going to repaint a lower unit. It's going to take a good bit with the wire wheel to get it cleaned up good as it has some black hardened stuff of it. So it will probably be down to the metal in some places. Is standard self etching primer the way to go here, just as if I was painting a bare aluminum hull? Was thinking one coat of self etching primer, then a coat or two of a regular filler primer. Then wet sand it and put on a couple of coats of primer.

 

[Kismet]

Just a thought on clear coat:

Do you want your camo cowl to shine and reflect light? Most leaves/trees and grasses don't reflect light, but rather absorb it.

Small thing, but worth noting.

Best wishes.

 

[Pappy]

A good self etching primer works well on the gearcase, Coat with 2-3 coats of your favorite paint and let it rip. Longer you let the paint dry the harder it will become. I have done too many to count so far and that is about all that is needed.