Rivet identification. Note I have used D rivets(raised dimple), which are harder rivets than AD rivets (inverted dimple) when repairing boat

[fbmikey1]









 

[fbmikey1]

I also use sealant applied to the rivet Pryor to bucking the rivet. This is referred to as wet riveting.

 

[fbmikey1]

Please refer to AC 43.13-1B & AC 43.13-2B - Aircraft Inspection, Repair & Alterations: Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices, section 4. All info can be found online.

 

[LDUBS]

Good info. Thanks.

 

[Tin Man]

Please refer to AC 43.13-1B & AC 43.13-2B - Aircraft Inspection, Repair & Alterations: Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices, section 4. All info can be found online.

Are these the AC docs you are referring to? If so, I didn't see anything on rivets and their installation. 1B is over 600 pages and would not upload.

 

[Tin Man]

Tried to zip file doc 1B and it still would not upload.....

here is link.... FAA 1B

 

[DaleH]

FWIW tin boat mfg'rs recommend Type A for repairing tin boats.

 

[fbmikey1]

AC 43.13-1B. Paragraph 4, refers to among other things, rivet identification, riveting practices, and some methods of structural repair using rivets that may be helpful in aluminum boat repair. I did a quick Google search for the AC 43.13-1B And was able to download the information.

 

[fbmikey1]

FWIW tin boat mfg'rs recommend Type A for repairing tin boats.

I am not familiar with FWIW, I used the aircraft rivets that I have access to. The aluminum alloys used in boat building probably differ from those used in aircraft fabrication. A softer rivet. It’s probably recommended in boat fabrication.

 

[LDUBS]

I am not familiar with FWIW, I used the aircraft rivets that I have access to. The aluminum alloys used in boat building probably differ from those used in aircraft fabrication. A softer rivet. It’s probably recommended in boat fabrication.

FWIW = For What It's Worth.

 

[fbmikey1]

Thanks for the heads up. Apparently I am,SMAI-Social Media Acronym Ignorant!

 

[Tin Man]

FWIW tin boat mfg'rs recommend Type A for repairing tin boats.

I noticed the Type A are the 1100 designation you have referred to in other posts (softer than parent material).

 

[fbmikey1]

I noticed the Type A are the 1100 designation you have referred to in other posts (softer than parent material).

Referring to the material that is being drilled and riveted together as parent material is probably the wrong Termanology. My thought on the subject was that the act of bucking, a Harder, rivet, or several in a given area with minimal edge distance and pitch, could possibly have the undesired effect of work, hardening that area, making it more susceptible to stress cracks.

 

[DaleH]

Having formed replacement skins (inside & out, see 16- tin in my signature) for tin boats where I had to anneal the tin before massive bending and forming, I can assure you that setting a rivet in < 20- seconds or less, even if area was unannealed (which is how we all do it … ) is significantly less stress than bending/forming.