Rivet repair screw up — Polarkraft 169fs

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TN Squire

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New to forum — so thanks in advance for any ideas.

I was replacing leaky rivets and accidentally drilled out a second hole. So now I have a 1/2” oval instead of a 1/4” hole. This is below the waterline and a bit forward of center on the port side underneath the console.

I don’t want to weld. Unfortunately, I think the hole is too large to repair with a large flanged rivet. I think it needs more than just an epoxy fill.

Anyone think there would be an issue making a small patch from .100” thick aluminum sheet, coat with sealant/adhesive (5200 or g flex), then rivets at the corners to help seal? Then perhaps coat the patch with sealant?

I’ve seen this done on transoms and Jon boats, but can’t really find any good info regarding bottom of a boat that will travel 30 mph on semi rough waters (at times).

Any thoughts on if this will be a sound repair? Other ideas welcome, short of welding or brazing. Thanks.
 
The "right" way would be to take it to a welder.

A way that would definitely work and last a lifetime: Marine adhesives (3M 5200) is amazing stuff. search online for "stainless elevator bolts". Put a dab of 5200 under the head of the bolt and use it to seal the hole with a stainless fender washer and nut on the inside of the boat.
 
A riveted patch would be my second choice after welding.
I would use more rivets than at just the corners. The elevator bolt is interesting, the issue I see is the square shank under the head not allowing the nut to get tight enough and no way to hold the EB still to to even tighten it.
 
Awesome guys! Thanks for the ideas and confirmation that I seem to be on the right track. Super helpful!
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
The elevator bolt is interesting, the issue I see is the square shank under the head not allowing the nut to get tight enough and no way to hold the EB still to to even tighten it.
Use of a carriage bolt without the square shank would work
 
If you do decide to patch, I would make it a narrow diamond shape with 4 rivets in each corner, and one in the center, with plenty of 5200 between.

You can use pop rivets, just make sure they're the closed end style.
 
@TN Squire what did you end up doing? I'm looking at a similar situation.




 
A riveted patch would be my second choice after welding.
I would use more rivets than at just the corners. The elevator bolt is interesting, the issue I see is the square shank under the head not allowing the nut to get tight enough and no way to hold the EB still to to even tighten it.
Try a plow bolt, a hardware store in Farm country should have them or Amazon.
 

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