Storage box hinge recommendations

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AlanT

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Location
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I’ve been a lurker on this site for a couple of years and rarely posted because I didn’t have expertise in the topic to provide input. I’m looking for recommendations on hinges on a plywood storage box on my aluminum boat. I searched this site and others, and also searched sites that sell hinges, but haven’t found product that I know will work. The current plywood storage box fits against the front aluminum deck and the top is split in the middle and opens toward port and starboard. I would like to rebuild the box with a solid top that pivots toward the front deck (open toward stern) to make it a little more water resistant. Here are the challenges/requirements:
  • I can’t mount any hinges on the top because the knuckle would be a trip hazard and I’m not getting any younger and have some back issues.
  • I want the top to be as close as possible to the front aluminum deck and flush with the top of the front aluminum deck to avoid gaps and trip hazards.
  • Preferably stainless hinges to prevent rust.
  • I can’t mortise anything due to the type and thickness of materials, so it must be surface mount. Many cabinet hinges require a mortise.
  • Capable of supporting ½” plywood approx. 48” X 17”.
A couple of options that come close to meeting the requirements are below:

Sliding hinge galvanized carbon steel (rust resistant):
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08FG1H...olid=15O5Q0WG3OXPE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Cabinet hinges (sufficient support?):
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0882N9...olid=15O5Q0WG3OXPE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Spring lid support (used as the only hinge?):
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MV58...olid=15O5Q0WG3OXPE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Anyone solve this problem and have a recommendation? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
A picture of the layout would help immensely ...

But why make it hinged at all? A simple cover that just drops on top and has an over hanging 'drip edge' to keep it water-tight should suffice, no?
 
A picture of the layout would help immensely ...

But why make it hinged at all? A simple cover that just drops on top and has an over hanging 'drip edge' to keep it water-tight should suffice, no?
Possibly. It would need a couple of latches to keep it from blowing off while trailering. I don't think that would be an issue on the water. I think the size of the top would make it somewhat awkward to lift. Attaching a couple of pics
 

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Ahhhhh ... see? A picture always helps! To me ... simple ... drop a SS piano hinge in VERTICALLY (sandwiched between the front deck and the box) and the box cover will rotate up and around to rest on the front deck.

See if this sketch makes any sense ...

Box.jpg

You can add blocking under the bow deck to securely fasten the hinge, but depending on the thickness of your cover, to securely fasten the hinge, use long screws, maybe long #8 SS 'flat head' hardware (FH screws needed to avoid binding on the hinge faces).
 
Ahhhhh ... see? A picture always helps! To me ... simple ... drop a SS piano hinge in VERTICALLY (sandwiched between the front deck and the box) and the box cover will rotate up and around to rest on the front deck.

See if this sketch makes any sense ...

View attachment 112793

You can add blocking under the bow deck to securely fasten the hinge, but depending on the thickness of your cover, to securely fasten the hinge, use long screws, maybe long #8 SS 'flat head' hardware (FH screws needed to avoid binding on the hinge faces).
Wow. Now I know who to contact for my mock-up graphics. LOL I have an old piano hinge and some scraps of wood to do a mock up. Attaching the hinge to the aluminum bow isn't a problem because I can reach behind through the hole you see in the picture and install nuts. If I can't reach all of them I can tap the aluminum and use machine screws. Piano hinges are strong and I'm not concerned about getting it attached and there really isn't much stress on the hinges. I estimate the lid will only weigh 10 to 12 lbs. I'll see how this works. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Dale, you are a stud - thanks from the “info consumers” on this site (like me). Alan, consider adding riv nuts (vs loose nuts) to your design. They are super easy to use in sheet metal with difficult access from behind and require no special tools other than a drill.
 

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Dale, you are a stud - thanks from the “info consumers” on this site (like me). Alan, consider adding riv nuts (vs loose nuts) to your design. They are super easy to use in sheet metal with difficult access from behind and require no special tools other than a drill.
Thanks. Will consider it. I'm still planning this project and will likely pursue it in the spring. I don't want my boat out of commission during winter fishing in south Louisiana.
 
I second the riv nuts. Look up diy riv nut tool. A bolt long enough to hold two washers, a nut couple sizes bigger than the bolt, the riv nut itself.
Buy a couple extra, and practice on some material that you see the back side of the riv nut on, to help you get the “feel” of when it’s fully spread.
There are two types of riv nuts also. The type referenced above, and one that spreads to four parts, I forget the name of that one.
 
I second the riv nuts. Look up diy riv nut tool. A bolt long enough to hold two washers, a nut couple sizes bigger than the bolt, the riv nut itself.
Buy a couple extra, and practice on some material that you see the back side of the riv nut on, to help you get the “feel” of when it’s fully spread.
There are two types of riv nuts also. The type referenced above, and one that spreads to four parts, I forget the name of that one.
Thanks. I will investigate.
 
Alan - I can send you some aluminum rivnuts ... free
Thanks, Dale. You're moving faster than I. I haven't yet figured out sizes. I'm trying to focus on the right size and material for the piano hinge. Since I'm using 1/2 plywood, it's a little bit of a challenge to find piano hinges small enough that will work. While a typical 1 1/2" hinge would technically work, it would leave a sharp edge exposed with the lid open. Not a show stopper, but not great. It seems like McMaster-Carr has the largest variety of piano hinges down to 1 1/16", but not cheap. I'm currently dealing with my daughter's car issue and trying to get it towed for repairs. It's always something. I appreciate all the help provided on this site. I've learned a great deal in the last 2 years. My boat is finally get some attention after years of "emergency-type repairs" to keep it in use.
 
Add a strip of wood under the lid, glued/screwed to the lid. Then 1” or more ‘leg’ hinge has more to hold onto and that eliminates the sharp edge.
Yes, thought of that and may go that route. I was trying to avoid extending the hinge longer than needed because I'd like to put another piece of wood as sort of a "partial 2nd back wall" to help keep water out. I would need to provide a pic or drawing. The explanation probably doesn't make sense. I'm still working through it but haven't had time.
 
I wonder if you could get a piano hinge w/ 1” leg & bend 1 leg like an ‘L’, so screws could go in with the length of the cover and then in & up to the top.
 
I wonder if you could get a piano hinge w/ 1” leg & bend 1 leg like an ‘L’, so screws could go in with the length of the cover and then in & up to the top.
You're describing a single offset piano hinge. I haven't yet found one that will accomodate a 1/2" board in the L. I thought this was going to be easy to find all the right hardware. LOL I don't give up easy and will find something that will work with my design.
 
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You're describing a single offset piano hinge. I haven't yet found one that will accomodate a 1/2" board in the L. I thought this was going to be easy to find all the right hardware. LOL I don't give up easy and will find something that will work with my design.

All the ones I've seen are for 3/4" material. You would need to add 1/4 to the thickness along the hinge side. In my opinion, that is a simple step and the benefits of an offset piano hinge make it worthwhile.
 
All the ones I've seen are for 3/4" material. You would need to add 1/4 to the thickness along the hinge side. In my opinion, that is a simple step and the benefits of an offset piano hinge make it worthwhile.
I'm coming around to that. I'll look for a 316 stainless offset.
 
Maybe $20 or $30 more for 316 for a typical piano hinge 48" in length. But I found some titanium piano hinges that run $300 to $400. Thought that was interesting.
 

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