what steps did you take?

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monsterkat11

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what steps did you guys take when painting your boats. did you go all out, sandblast, primer, and paint? or did you just scruff up and paint?
what were the results? would you have done it differently?
 
When I painted mine, I scuffed up the existing paint, but sanded where the paint was flaking to remove any chips or anything, then I primed everything and let it cure for about a week. Then painted with a roller. Everything went on well and has held up to most everything that I've thrown at it. The paint I used was from Fleet Farm which is just an agricultural supply store. It was an industrial paint used to paint tractors so I figured it would stand up pretty well.
 
I completely stripped the boat on the outside, my plans was to stripp the inside, but thats where it stopped.

The old boat had bad paint strokes on it. So I took it off, It was alot of man hours! I tried to strecth the paint stripper in the begining and that was a mistake (waisted a hole week by going by the directions), I finally forked out the cash and layed the paint stripper on thick to get that paint to bubble off, once I started to do that it was cream work. :wink:

I decided not to stripp the floor and benches, I covered this up with carpet.

I ended up painting it Olive green with camo marks, still would love to paint it pretty :D
 
painting a john boat is pretty easy as far as painting goes. i just sanded the whole sides down, sprayed it down with carb cleaner (acetone would be best, i didn't have any at the time) and wiped it clean a few times with clean rags. taped it off (i only painted the sides) and hit it with 1 coat of duplicoler etching primer and 4 coats of rustoleum gloss black. I have used all kinds of paint on various projects and imo rustoleum is the most durable cheap paint you can get. vht is great but you can only get it in flat black or some silver colors ,and you have to cure it so its not really good for a john boat. plus its like $8 a can. duplicolor is good for cheap high temp paint for exhaust stuff/rims, and there etching primer is good but there other stuff isn't that great.
 
I am getting ready to paint my first jon myself. I just went to Lowes and read the can on the Rustoleum Premium Paint and it says it covers every type of surface but do not submerse in water....Is this the wrong rustoleum? Not trying to steal this thread I thought my question would also contribute to the original post.
 
DavidN said:
I am getting ready to paint my first jon myself. I just went to Lowes and read the can on the Rustoleum Premium Paint and it says it covers every type of surface but do not submerse in water....Is this the wrong rustoleum? Not trying to steal this thread I thought my question would also contribute to the original post.


Yep wrong, but some people have used it and its been fine, I for one passed this up due to that reason. I picked up my marine paint from the local army surplus store :D
 
hmm, never knew rustoleum said that... i dont know, its held up good on my boat and I plow the b!tch into the mangroves all the time.
 
well here's a good question, anyone know what exact type of paint they use on the factory flat bottoms (the green paint) i think i'm going to paint the boat, i want it green and i want it a flat color like the factory paint, not shiny.
 
my jon was never painted so i scuffed up the aluminum shot it with some self etching primer. the got the dupli color camo flat olive and sprayed the entire outside. i went that way because i get into alot of sandy/shell areas and i always seem to scuff the paint and its an easy fix to repaint different areas.
 
I saw this paint in cabelas.

Maybe I am reading too much but from what I find out it is all in the primer. Alumimum Oxide primer is recommended then from what I am told just about anything will work on top of that. However, it appears as though that even marine paints have pretty much the same disclaimer.

I am basically at the conclusion that a good primer and rustoleum will work great just like others have used. But I am kinda confused now myself...
 
i was dead set on rustoleum until i decided i wanted a flat paint, i think most rustoleum is glossy. also, is it a must to prime before paint? i'm not looking for a perfect paint job, just something that looks decent.
 
monsterkat11 said:
where would i be able to find this flat olive paint? would lowes or home depot carry it?


I picked up my marine paint from the local army surplus store Olive Green

click here https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3586 and see if ya like how the color turned out.
 
monsterkat11 said:
i was dead set on rustoleum until i decided i wanted a flat paint, i think most rustoleum is glossy. also, is it a must to prime before paint? i'm not looking for a perfect paint job, just something that looks decent.


If the current paint job still is sticking good then all you will need to do is give it a light sanding with some 120 grit or you could even go lighter with 220 grit. Once sanded if there are any bare aluminum spots you will need to prime them with some self etching primer. I used zinc chromate self eching primer which is one step better than just plain old self etching primer from the auto parts store because the zinc chromate helps prevent corrosion.

Once that's done give eveything a good wipe down with some type of solvent such as acetone to remove any grease, dirt, wax, etc. Once that is done your ready to paint. The only time you really need to use primer is when the aluminum is bare and then it's a must if you want the paint to really stick.

Keep in mind 2 thin coats are better than one heavy one and i would also scuff the first coat after it dries with some 220 grit and give it a wipe down with a tack cloth before putting on the 2nd coat.

Two main points to keep in mind are 1) The paint is only as durable as what it's sticking to 2) A nice looking / durable paint job is all about the prep work; painting it is the easy part.
 
When I bought my boat it was the original alum. surface. I scuffed it up and used Duplicolor self etching primer. On the inside I used Duplicolor Acryllic Enamel. on the interior bottom I used Duplicolor Trunk Paint I thought the texture would be nice for grip- THIS WAS A HUGE MISTAKE ! ON MY FIRST TRIP OUT IT GOT WET AND RUBBED OFF. PLEASE DONT MAKE THIS MISTAKE. I was able to patch the leak(s) and it has been fine since but I wouldn't do it again. On the outside above the waterline I used Duplicolor SUV and Truck Paint this worked really well then I clearcoated it. on the bottom exterior with Steelflex#9 I found this paint sort of hard to work with but It works really well and dries glossy and hard. Good Luck!
 
well the boat looks like it has a somewhat newer coating under the waterline (thick black stuff, looks like it works as an extra sealer) i will NOT remove that, if anything i'll just paint over it, would i be ok painting over it?
 
monsterkat11 said:
well the boat looks like it has a somewhat newer coating under the waterline (thick black stuff, looks like it works as an extra sealer) i will NOT remove that, if anything i'll just paint over it, would i be ok painting over it?

That just depends on what that "stuff" is. I know when I tried painting over the steelflex 9x epoxy that I put on my boat it didn't work out too well. The paint never really dried and stayed tacky for weeks until I just wiped it off with some mineral spirits. I used the same paint on the rest of my boat (wood & aluminum) with no problems so I know it had to do with the epoxy. If I were you I would paint a small area with the paint you want to use and see how it dries and adheres first. A whole lot easier to fix one little spot the half the friggin boat...trust me I should know. #-o
 
well in that case, i don't really care much if it stays black, maybe i'll try what you suggested or maybe i'll just leave it black :)
 

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