YJs 1236 Semi V Mod

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That's what I"m hoping. Unfortunately we've got rain and high humidity days in the forecast for the next week. But hasn't stopped me from grinding the paint off the boat in between showers. And......
The registration card and stickers for the boat came in the mail today. Woooot. Fully legal now until 2017
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=362040#p362040 said:
SumDumGuy » August 2nd, 2014, 10:24 pm[/url]"]2017? that's nice..... I gotta redo every year (probably so they can raise rates on everyone if they want to :shock: ).

****.. that sux. Yep here in Georgia they do them for 3 yrs at a time. Gotta love it.. Just wish they did that for the autos..
 
Ok.. Update time. :p I actually feel like I got something accomplished on my tin.
I had been grinding on getting the paint off until I completely wore out the stripping disk and wire brush on my angle grinder, so that's on hold until payday.
Today with a bit of help from my dremel tool grinding wheel and my neighbors drill I managed to grind a flat spot on all the rivets that needed it then drilled them out and got all three bench seats out of the boat.

The aft and middle benches had braces in the center from the bench bottom to the boat floor and I wanted to leave the braces in but I couldn't stand on my head long enough to drill out the rivets on the bench bottoms, so I opted to drill out the rivets going from the braces thru the hull. Figured out just which rivets they were, rolled the boat over so I could get to the bottom. I flattened to round tops of the rivets with the dremel then drilled them out. Whyalla.... Benches out...
Tomorrow I'll give it all a good pressure washing then start figuring out just how I'm gonna get a flat floor inside. I don't want to make it to high but would like a little more than just 36" also. I'm planning on a small deck up on the bow, mostly to create a storage area for the battery, PFDs, anchor, etc. and a small deck in the aft for the spare fuel jug and bilge pump and baling bucket.

As usual, any comments, ideas and thought are invited and welcome. I learn from ya'll so please bring it on...
 

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Get a wire cup brush for your grinder and knock it out. I took my 16 foot hull down to bare aluminum with it. Go with a 3" diameter or you will burn up your grinder.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=363489#p363489 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 16th, 2014, 1:55 pm[/url]"]Get a wire cup brush for your grinder and knock it out. I took my 16 foot hull down to bare aluminum with it. Go with a 3" diameter or you will burn up your grinder.
Thanks, smackdaddy. That's what I was planning on getting next payday, maybe a couple of them so I got a spare on hand.
Today I did a pressure wash job on the boat and about half the paint that was still on there just magically disappeared. I was somewhat surprised to find no primer under the paint thru it all. Onward and upward. Tomorrow I plan on breaking out the duck tape and twine to layout where the flat floor will be and get an idea of just where I need the frame work and how much foam I'll need for under the floor..
 
Make sure you mask up, all that aluminum/paint dust is no good for your lungs and the wires come off the cup brush and turn into projectiles that will stick thru jeans.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1408291299.925457.jpg
 
hey YJ, look how stable my V became after the pontoons. my friend was flipping and pitching standing on the front bench all morning long.

466992c1-aee4-40a4-98f6-81ee8fcca3f6_zps0268a195.jpg
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=363553#p363553 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 17th, 2014, 12:01 pm[/url]"]Make sure you mask up, all that aluminum/paint dust is no good for your lungs and the wires come off the cup brush and turn into projectiles that will stick thru jeans.
Oh I got to agree with ya there.. My legs and bare feet both had little metal hairs sticking out of them from the last wire brush I used on the boat. Ouch.
 
Tomorrow I plan on breaking out the duck tape and twine to layout where the flat floor will be and get an idea of just where I need the frame work and how much foam I'll need for under the floor.

Hi Y_J,

An easy way to mark where the floor will meet the sides of your boat is to get the boat siting pretty level then fill it up a little bit with water. After the water has settled and isn't sloshing around, use a pencil to trace this inner waterline. After draining the water out then it's just a matter of taking measurements from waterline to waterline across the boat then lofting them up on the plywood. I did this two boats ago and it worked like a charm.

Good luck with your project!

Scott

P.S. I've had better luck with cup brushes over the regular wire wheels on grinders. Every time I've used a regular wire wheel I end up looking like a steel-clad porcupine. I also burned up a Harbor Freight grinder and a Dewalt model using too big of a cup brush. Now I just use small cup brushes on my grinder.
 
Now that is just to simple. :) Wish I had thought of that one but it makes perfect sense. I tried making the duct tape and string thing work and could never get it taunt enough to hang and bubble level on (made for hanging on a line).
At this point right now I layed a larger bubble level on the flattest part of the inside of the hull then put a stack of boards under the bow to bring it up to where the bubble level was dead center. So now, next step, as you suggested, fill it with water to where I want the floor to be (about 3" up) then trace with a pencil around the water line. I love that idea. Thanks so much for the heads up on it.. I really appreciate it a lot.
 
Just to let you know, that water fill trick worked out great. LOL, got it all done then realised I still need to get the rest of the paint out of the inside of the boat. Duhh
Since my property is a hill no matter which way you turn, I had the bow down hill, laid a 3-way bubble level in the bottom center, lifted the bow by stacking wood under the keel until the bubble was dead center, then used a small log on the side, bushed up under until that bubble was dead center. Taped up the holes in the bottom, (from the bench supports) then threw the hose in and filled to just above the rivet line in the back of the boat. took the hose out, sat down with a cup of coffee to let the water settle down, sharpened my pencil then just fallowed the water line. Way to easy :)

Thanks again for the idea. I really appreciate it.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364194#p364194 said:
scottphillips208 » August 23rd, 2014, 12:55 am[/url]"]YJ,

Glad to hear the water trick worked! What material do you plan to use for your floor?

Scott
Under the floor will be the insulation foam (pink) from Home Depot. The floor it's self I wanted to use aluminum but I can't seem to find it where I can afford it. So, I'm thinking use aluminum for the framing/bracing then marine plywood sealed with two or three coats of spar varnish to seal it with. I was originally wanting to use marine carpet on that but the more I think about it, I don't want to have to spend who knows how much time digging hooks out of the carpet so leaning towards the vinyl. Fore and aft will be low decks with hatches about the same level as the original benches with storage for the battery and spare fuel jug and nav lights when not in use and a bailing bucket. On top of those will be the comfortable seats on the SliderG5's. Then all the way up front will be a higher, larger deck for storage of items like the anchor, spare ropes, tools and PFDs.
hehehe Guess I got a bit carried away on the answer but what the hell.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364244#p364244 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 23rd, 2014, 8:21 pm[/url]"]Tuffcoat the deck. It is worth it!
I hadn't even considered that one. I'm gonna go check into it right now.. Thanks for the idea..
 
Y_J said:
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364244#p364244 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 23rd, 2014, 8:21 pm[/url]"]Tuffcoat the deck. It is worth it!
I hadn't even considered that one. I'm gonna go check into it right now.. Thanks for the idea..
Prep is key but you will not be disappointed if you do it right.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364368#p364368 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 25th, 2014, 12:47 am[/url]"]
Y_J said:
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364244#p364244 said:
smackdaddy53 » August 23rd, 2014, 8:21 pm[/url]"]Tuffcoat the deck. It is worth it!
I hadn't even considered that one. I'm gonna go check into it right now.. Thanks for the idea..
Prep is key but you will not be disappointed if you do it right.
Yep. I got on their site last night and went thru it and watched a bunch of their videos as well. Not to shabby from what I can see. Only problem I could find with the site is that I could find nowhere where they mentioned pricing. That sux. Will investigate further.
 
Got a question for ya'll.
Earlier today I made a trip to HF and picked up a couple of their cheap sawhorses to lift the boat up off of the ground so I can work on it without having to stoop over to do the work. I haven't even done any work on it yet using the sawhorses and I'm already regretting getting them. The tops are only about 2.5 ft long and about 1.5 inches wide. They're so flimsy if you touch the boat it falls off of the sawhorses. UGGGGG.
Now the ???. Has anyone here used these things or something similar to them? If so how did you solve the problem? I thought about getting some boards and screw them into the top of the sawhorse but I'm afraid they will just rip out.
Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
Also picked up some new wire cups and wheels for my angle grinder while I was there. Back to sanding the paint off the boat, I hope..
 

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