jarhead
Member
Boat 1977 Yazoo
Length 16 ft
Bottom 4 ft
Beam 6 ft
Hi everyone. Semper Fi to all of you from an old Marine Corp Viet Nam vet with 5 kids (kids hell, their all grown) and 6 grandkids.
Sorry for the wordy essay, but here goes nothing.
After studying into the “do's and don't's” of the whole process, I finally came up with a concept for my boat conversion. I know when I start, there will be some changes, but hopefully minor ones.
Proposed problem: I read and inquired with several boat, welding, and construction engineering experts trying to find the unanimous “bad” results of a conversion. The number one response was – cracking of the hull or spar ribs from stress load. This could be blamed on the installation of rigid framing or boxing in an area of an aluminum boat were the hull was originally allowed to twist or rack slightly to relieve the stress by transferring it through the lateral length of the boat. The rigidity causes the load to “pile” up in a single spot which eventually can cause fatigue and fracturing of the aluminum. For instance, some boats, like mine, have the bench seats mounted to the sides and NOT the bottom. This allows the boat hull to twist (from wakes, waves etc.) under the seat and along the sides. Other boats may be mounted to the floor. If so, the boat twist and yaw does not pass through the bottom or floor. A lot just simply depends on the engineering of the manufacturer. If I were to remove my seats and install a “rigid” frame in its' place, the boat could suffer a fracture under power. If you are only using trolling motors for power, this will be a NON-ISSUE. It is only when you approach the maximum power for which the boat was designed. However, fracture points can occur just from trailering.
Conclusion: I needed to design a frame that only mounts where the boat is already rigid and allow the rest of the frame to move or float. Most of my frame will be tied only to the front seat. I will not be cannibalizing any of the boat. It will remain in tack and the conversion is designed around the original boat.
I have done many sketches and finally came up with what I think is a decent shot at a functional conversion. I have a CAD drawing of the layout and compartments. I have all my major pieces of plywood fitted into 4x8 sheets to determine the amount of wood, carpet, hinges, wiring etc.
Weight has been one of my major concerns. Some of these conversions actually break the aluminum just being transported on the trailer behind your vehicle due to stress from the load bouncing around on the trailer. Some conversions need more rollers or bunkers to support long spans with larger loads than originally designed. There is already a crack in the bottom of the keel rib on my boat that was probably (according to my welding and metallurgy expert) caused by a duck hunter load in the front of the boat.
I may need some help posting some of my preliminary drawings and photos. I will be starting the actual conversion sometime soon. I just wanted to go ahead and share some info while I was in a typing mood. I am always open to suggestions from everyone. Sharing things stimulates creativity. So, LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK!!
I know I will learn a lot here. This is a great forum.
I do not know how to put this post in the links area or other index areas. I hope this is the right index for posting this.
Pictures
Compartments -
The rod compartments will be able to hold a 7' 6" rod with 6 inches under the front deck.
You will be able to walk almost the full length of the boat. When the power or tiller motor is needed just flip back the lid, move your seat and go. Sounds good, hope it works.
The bottom of the boat is covered with Corroplast(sp) sign material with carpeting. VERY light, VERY quiet.
I have already removed the wood/ rhino liner front deck seen here.
Framing structure
Length 16 ft
Bottom 4 ft
Beam 6 ft
Hi everyone. Semper Fi to all of you from an old Marine Corp Viet Nam vet with 5 kids (kids hell, their all grown) and 6 grandkids.
Sorry for the wordy essay, but here goes nothing.
After studying into the “do's and don't's” of the whole process, I finally came up with a concept for my boat conversion. I know when I start, there will be some changes, but hopefully minor ones.
Proposed problem: I read and inquired with several boat, welding, and construction engineering experts trying to find the unanimous “bad” results of a conversion. The number one response was – cracking of the hull or spar ribs from stress load. This could be blamed on the installation of rigid framing or boxing in an area of an aluminum boat were the hull was originally allowed to twist or rack slightly to relieve the stress by transferring it through the lateral length of the boat. The rigidity causes the load to “pile” up in a single spot which eventually can cause fatigue and fracturing of the aluminum. For instance, some boats, like mine, have the bench seats mounted to the sides and NOT the bottom. This allows the boat hull to twist (from wakes, waves etc.) under the seat and along the sides. Other boats may be mounted to the floor. If so, the boat twist and yaw does not pass through the bottom or floor. A lot just simply depends on the engineering of the manufacturer. If I were to remove my seats and install a “rigid” frame in its' place, the boat could suffer a fracture under power. If you are only using trolling motors for power, this will be a NON-ISSUE. It is only when you approach the maximum power for which the boat was designed. However, fracture points can occur just from trailering.
Conclusion: I needed to design a frame that only mounts where the boat is already rigid and allow the rest of the frame to move or float. Most of my frame will be tied only to the front seat. I will not be cannibalizing any of the boat. It will remain in tack and the conversion is designed around the original boat.
I have done many sketches and finally came up with what I think is a decent shot at a functional conversion. I have a CAD drawing of the layout and compartments. I have all my major pieces of plywood fitted into 4x8 sheets to determine the amount of wood, carpet, hinges, wiring etc.
Weight has been one of my major concerns. Some of these conversions actually break the aluminum just being transported on the trailer behind your vehicle due to stress from the load bouncing around on the trailer. Some conversions need more rollers or bunkers to support long spans with larger loads than originally designed. There is already a crack in the bottom of the keel rib on my boat that was probably (according to my welding and metallurgy expert) caused by a duck hunter load in the front of the boat.
I may need some help posting some of my preliminary drawings and photos. I will be starting the actual conversion sometime soon. I just wanted to go ahead and share some info while I was in a typing mood. I am always open to suggestions from everyone. Sharing things stimulates creativity. So, LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK!!
I know I will learn a lot here. This is a great forum.
I do not know how to put this post in the links area or other index areas. I hope this is the right index for posting this.
Pictures
Compartments -
The rod compartments will be able to hold a 7' 6" rod with 6 inches under the front deck.
You will be able to walk almost the full length of the boat. When the power or tiller motor is needed just flip back the lid, move your seat and go. Sounds good, hope it works.
The bottom of the boat is covered with Corroplast(sp) sign material with carpeting. VERY light, VERY quiet.
I have already removed the wood/ rhino liner front deck seen here.
Framing structure