OK to move Fuel Tank forward?

[TriBull]

The FasseCo company does high-end restorations on old tin boats. They have a slick approach to a forward placed fuel cell. They mount/attach underneath the forward seat with the filler cap coming through the seat. I’m assuming the filler cap is vented. I would think this same approach could be done inside a front casting deck, even if it was enclosed - as long as the filler cap is exposed and vented.

 

[TriBull]

Here’s more on a FasseCo build showing the front mounted fuel cell:

 

[LaqueRatt]

Interesting. Some good ideas here, but wow, just what does FasseCo charge for one of these? More than paid for my car I'll bet!

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Aluminum is not magnetic.

 

[TriBull]

Interesting. Some good ideas here, but wow, just what does FasseCo charge for one of these? More than paid for my car I'll bet!

Interesting. Some good ideas here, but wow, just what does FasseCo charge for one of these? More than paid for my car I'll bet!

$22,500, which is crazy expensive… but you figure $4,500 for the motor, that leaves $18k for the original boat & trailer acquisition, restoration work (parts, materials, supplies & labor), all accessories included and a profit margin. Those of us who’ve done a quality restoration know how it adds up… But, I wouldn’t lay out that kind of money knowing I can do a quality restoration, at least to my own personal satisfaction!

Aluminum is not magnetic.

Probably has a steel disc that adheres on top or underneath the bow cap for the light to attach to. (Raises the question in my mind of whether or not a magnet would attach to metal if aluminum was sandwiched in between? Probably a topic worthy of its own thread! Lol )

 

[davidj65]

$22,500, which is crazy expensive… but you figure $4,500 for the motor, that leaves $18k for the original boat & trailer acquisition, restoration work (parts, materials, supplies & labor), all accessories included and a profit margin. Those of us who’ve done a quality restoration know how it adds up… But, I wouldn’t lay out that kind of money knowing I can do a quality restoration, at least to my own personal satisfaction!

Probably has a steel disc that adheres on top or underneath the bow cap for the light to attach to. (Raises the question in my mind of whether or not a magnet would attach to metal if aluminum was sandwiched in between? Probably a topic worthy of its own thread! Lol )

Well, a new 14' aluminum boat with a trailer and 25hp Yamaha is what, $11K? The custom gas tank alone is probably over 2000 I bet. Custom work adds up quickly, and that appears to be very well done.

This is exactly what I was thinking, mounting the gas tank under a front casting deck and having the cap and vent through the deck. Is there a source for such components?

 

[Driftless]

Well, a new 14' aluminum boat with a trailer and 25hp Yamaha is what, $11K? The custom gas tank alone is probably over 2000 I bet. Custom work adds up quickly, and that appears to be very well done.

This is exactly what I was thinking, mounting the gas tank under a front casting deck and having the cap and vent through the deck. Is there a source for such components?

overpriced IMO
you can buy a variety of tanks online and if you get one for below deck, it'll have a port that you can put a tube on and run it elsewhere to vent, away from your fishing line/lures.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Yep, more than I paid for my car......AND every boat I ever owned combined added in. Plus my motorcycle! More than a new boat too right? What kinda chucklehead goes for crap like this? An old boat is an old boat and last I checked they don't go up in value.

 

[Driftless]

An old boat is an old boat and last I checked they don't go up in value.

Yup. The only exception would be a 'classic' of some sort and valuation of that is purely in the mind of a prospective purchaser

 

[Livn]

Aluminum is not magnetic.

The puck didn’t seem stuck on when he moved it off. But I could be wrong…

 

[davidj65]

Alumacraft V-14/Yamaha F25

I tried to get a fuel line under the floor to move the tank to the front, but there is no access without removing the floor. May be a permanent solution in the future, but in the name of expediency, I ran gray PVC exterior conduit along the side. Passed it through the bracket and fastened it to the side seats with pic clamps. Ran 10' of A1 fuel line through and left enough of the flexible rubber section with the fuel connector to put the tank in the front or the middle. Looks unobtrusive and actually goes with the basic color of the interior.

I was having issues planing smoothly with the tank in the back, which was why I tried this. I also put about 50 pounds or so of aquarium gravel in a sealed pet food bag under the front floor section, but I left the battery in the back. Yesterday for the first time I got an opportunity on flat water to test it out. With my daughter in the front as well, perfectly smooth planing, topped out at just over 25mph FOT, handled just great. A little slow to get up on plane, but once I was up it zipped along quite nicely. This was with the motor trimmed mostly in, about vertical. Very pleased to see this. So for the moment I will leave the battery in the rear.

(Yes I know I need to also attach the conduit to the side instead of stashing a net behind it)

 

[Driftless]

Well, it worked for ya. I like to use pex as I can hand bend that and even anchor those gentle 90s. No 'sharp' edges on the inside of the ends either.
Finally, what says "cool" more than a red or blue conduit? I know of nothing else.

 

[Skunked again]

Put a heat gun to that pvc conduit, it will bend.

 

[LDUBS]

The FasseCo company does high-end restorations on old tin boats. They have a slick approach to a forward placed fuel cell. They mount/attach underneath the forward seat with the filler cap coming through the seat. I’m assuming the filler cap is vented. I would think this same approach could be done inside a front casting deck, even if it was enclosed - as long as the filler cap is exposed and vented.

That is a really slick approach hanging the fuel tank on the bottom of the front bench. Initially I had doubts about having the front bench carry that weight, but in reality it is no different than someone sitting there. Looks like they had a handy recess along the bottom/side to tuck the fuel line. It is a very clean set up for sure.

 

[LDUBS]

Interesting. Some good ideas here, but wow, just what does FasseCo charge for one of these? More than paid for my car I'll bet!

$22,500, which is crazy expensive… but you figure $4,500 for the motor, that leaves $18k for the original boat & trailer acquisition, restoration work (parts, materials, supplies & labor), all accessories included and a profit margin. Those of us who’ve done a quality restoration know how it adds up… But, I wouldn’t lay out that kind of money knowing I can do a quality restoration, at least to my own personal satisfaction!

That Yeti duffel bag adds 20% to the cost!

 

[jonesbeim]

I don't know all the design criteria but what RBW said sounds reasonable. Not mentioned so far, is any electrical or spark generating items within the compartment are specialized or will need to be removed.

 

[LDUBS]

It can not be fully enclosed or it would be an explosion hazard. The portable tanks vent to atmosphere, and the fumes would build up in your compartment.


Before getting a bow troller in our StarCraft Mariner-V, I moved the portable 6 gal tank under the casting deck I built. It had natural ventilation though. It had an open space at the very front of the V and the back was fully open between casting and floor. The 40hp Nissan had no issues with getting gas.

The fuel hose ran along the starboard edge, out of foot traffic.

An enclosed tank will need to be hard mounted and fill and vent hoses provided and they need to meet a certain spec.

No, they are just perfect to let in enough oxygen for an explosion.

Any deck or floor that your tank or fuel line run through need one entire side/end open or you will need a fan.

The risks of this imo greatly outweigh the rewards.

In my boat a 12 gallon portable gas tank and the battery sit under the splash well. The battery is in a typical battery box. The front of the splash well has a canvass cover hanging from snaps along the top. It came set up that way. It is far from air tight, but I would not consider it open either.

Blurry pic below showing what I'm talking about.

Would you guys consider that an enclosed space?

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I’d think you are OK given it is OEM set-up. If concerned, unsnap part of the cover.

 

[LDUBS]

I’d think you are OK given it is OEM set-up. If concerned, unsnap part of the cover.

Thanks. I didn't have any real serious concerns. Reading this thread made me think about it so thought I would ask.

 

[airshot]

Vents of some kind are cheap and easy to install whether it is a soft cover or a hard panel... With gasoline so dangerous, why take a chance??