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So I always wear a PFD at dark but I tend not to when boating in daylight hours. So I found an auto/manual PFD by onyx at academy for $60 in the hope that I'm more inclined to wear it full time. It seams like a good price. I also find it funny the camo ones are a lot more expensive.

It cracks me up because finishing used outboards in Texas is extremely hard.

I ended up just running the wires.

I ended up getting 32 mph fully loaded. But I got tired of dealing with a 40 year old outboard so I repowered with a new etec.

Thanks a lot. I ordered an aluminum prop. Hopefully to make it through break in then I can try dialing it in.

I have a 1652 lowe roughneck. Mod V, side console. I am putting a new 60hp etec. But the outboard retailer wants to know what pitch prop to use. I know I need to use a tach to get the correct equiptmemt but is there a ball park estimate?

Ok on battery 2 I wanted to go positive batt2->switch->terminal bus. Then negative batt 1 -> terminal bus. Basically I was trying to avoid running two wires under the decking to hook up the ground to the negative terminal bus.

Ok I have a battery selector switch. It has batt #1, batt #2, 1+2, And off. I want to change my trolling motor battery (batt #2) to a bow position but my wiring terminal is in the stern. I want to know if I can just wire the positive to the switch, then to the accessory terminal then I could...

If your thinking about stencils look at red leg camo on eBay. I got a 3 stencils from them for like 33 bucks. They have several patterns.

I have a 1973 65 johnson. I rebuilt carbs and it runs ok. I am having problems getting my boat on plane and the propeller is dinged up. The outboard has power tilt not trim but I do have a jackplate. My boat is an '06 lowe roughneck 1652 vpt. It's a mod V hull. I think it weighs like 400lbs...

I ended up just making my own harness and connected it to a pt-2000.

Hey I bought new cables and an adapter kit. I hope that I got the right ones. I dont seem to have the locking piece that goes on the throttle cable so I bought the connection kit. Its OEM controls and 1973 Johnson 65 HP outboard. Pretech Connection/Adapter Kits for Johnson/Evinrude...

It seems to be the exact same set up as the jack plate... 3 wire electric motor. I wonder where would be a good place to mount the relays.

It does I can operate them by running the bare leads to the battery posts. I am leaning towards getting the duel power trim switches from teleflex. Then buying 9 foot cables.

Ok starting a new thread Well I mounted a 1973 65 hp Johnson to a 1652 Lowe Roughneck Side Console. I ran into an issue. The outboard came with controls but the cables are way too long. Also The controls don't have a trim switch on the handle. So I have come to several solutions but I don't...

Edited to start new thread

To anyone wanting to know how to log into ebscohost. You must go to the URL https://search.ebscohost.com/‎. Then the login info ...marshall/public will work. I scratched my head a few times trying to figure this out.

Got the jack plate wired up. I flushed out the hydraulic several times. Now I'm ready to mount the outboard.

I ended up using boat life seal. Jack plate is on. I still need to wire it up and mount the hydraulic pump/motor and relays. Then mount the motor/controls and do some tuning. I ended up getting my transom stiffener rewelded. It cost my $38. I guess my biggest hurtle was I drilled one hole...

Granted....I've read enough on here about the way to seal a bolt going through a solid transom with a wood core but I think I'm in a different "boat". I am assuming the rectangular bars that are horizontal are hollow (they could be filled with composite I wont know until I drill) I was trying to...