12V Grumman Build Micro Center Console (Pic Heavy)

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sixgun86

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
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Location
Gulf Shores Alabama
First Boat 14' Flat w/ 18hp Sold $1200
Second Boat 12'V Center Console w/ 5hp Sold $1250
Third Boat 12' Rescue Flat Sold $150
Forth Boat 15' Flat Sold $300
Fifth Boat 16' Flat Current

I'll be updating as I go, hope to have it done in two-three weeks if parts & ol'lady allow.
Ol Lady @ Defcon 2

2nd and Current Boat: 74' 12'V Grumman & 04' Merc 5hp.
1: Purchase, Pick up & Register : Done
2: Remove old Transom and paint : Done
3: Seal Hull, Install new Transom : Done
4: Build Console : Done
5: Install cable steering & Control Box : Done
6: Prep Motor, Install Remote Kit & 8pitch Prop : Done
7: Install Motor, Test Throttle,Shift,Steering : Done
8: Seal Console, Transom, Touch Up : Done
SOLD $1250
 

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@ Sgt, Very nice.

Had trouble locating the correct control box that will use 10-32 cables for remote connections(Morse). Finally in hand. Got them adjusted last night. Framed the console some more, probably will add fiberglass wrap. Here is a picture of the steering wheel and controls I picked up today. Also the trailer I pulled out of a friends back yard I'll be using for the project. I used it to get my first boat(1448flat) out of the water when it sold yesterday. I painted the trailer flat black and installed new bearings, seals, and wheels last week.

I've decided to cut some decals for the sides of the boat, trailer, and center console. I've got two of each on the way. hgtikihut.com $28 shipped: 14"x3.5" 2qty, 12"x2" 2qty, 2.5"x4" 2 qty.
 

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i like the way you did the transom . i've got an older 12ft'er too with a transom like yours , i wished i saw your post and removed the corner braces it would have made it a lot easier to get the shape of the top right
 
@ Tinsquid

Previous transom was 3/8 ply and was much thinner than what the metal was formed to fit. I wasn't able to get it in without removing the caps. Had to saw the ends, drill and screw since I do not have access nor know how to use a welder.

Last night I boxed the console and installed the steering hub. Once I get some more hardware I'll mount the control box and route steering lines. Then sand, wrap, paint. I picked up a quad rod holder out of a parts boat. Will cut it down to three and mount on the front or side of the console.
 

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I've got the motor on the back getting ready to start running the cables for the steering. Kill switch and Controls have been mounted on the console.
 

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I've got the console sanded and almost ready to be sealed. Finishing the steering in the back and now I've got to run the line through the side of console so I will need to mount another two pulleys, drill couple more holes.. Pictures of last nights work.
 

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@ gouran & redneckfisher , Thanks Fella's

Last nights work; finished wood filling the console, cut down and sanded the rod holder, replaced carbiners to obtain longer length of pull & ran steering lines to the hub. Finally time to paint/seal the transom and console. Excuse the slack in the pulleys, lines weren't taught.
 

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@ EasternEasy, Thank you. Looking forward to it being done soon!

Last night got the last of the sealant applied. Rear of the boat, transom, and console. Also refinished and sealed rod holders. Also picked up some goodies: Swivel seat, two cleats, clock compass for the console, and two push lights.
 

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Got sometime yesterday to start putting it all back together. Using clothes line to get an exact measurement on how much coated wire I will need. Slight tweak of the bracket under the console and should be good to proceed to paint. Starting to look like something.
 

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I love this build! great work! =D> If you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost and where did you buy the pulley kit too hook the motor up to the steering wheel??
 
@ Partsman, Bulldog, & Fishing Frenzy: Thank you all! The steering parts were an ebay special. Since drum steering is no longer used aside from mirco hydroplanes you can't hardly find them new. It's not a safe setup as if something gives way your motor could instantly turn opposite direction potentially throwing you out of the boat. Also read some states have made it illegal on boats with 30hp or more. If I had to do it again I would have used a push/pull teleflex but the issue I ran into was finding, or creating a steering link as no one connects these little motors. Figured with drum setup I could shop for my steering parts at home depot worst case scenario. I paid $50 for my setup. If anyone's interested I know of a boat in the recycle yard that still has pulleys,cable,steering wheel and drum. Not sure of cost.

I'm running into bit of a bind the way I've angled my console so I'm going to have to go back and correct this before I can move on. I changed out the console pulleys and have my plastic coated braided steel line installed in hopes it could solve the problem. It's better, but not fixed. Going to have to re-angle my drum.
 

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Can you move the pulleys back a little?
Then they would be perpendicular to the shaft again.
 
I was able to cut an angle on end cap to get the drum perpendicular to my pulleys. Thankfully it worked! No binds, steers perfect. Now the control box is giving me problems. I had tested it with the motor on the stand a month ago but now that I've got it installed it's not working. It will move by hand freely so the cables aren't binding. I spent half hour trying to diagnose the issue but lost patients so I threw the boat on the trailer drove it a mile down the road to have a friend help me get it to shift correctly. Will find out today if I need to replace it... These things get pricey.
 

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