Rustoleum oil-based enamel. You absolutely have to add about 3 ounces of thinner or mineral spirits per quart, though. It's just too thick to use right off the shelf. You don't really need their marine paints, topside or otherwise. I believe their marine paint just has some sort of copper additive to deter the likes of barnacles and such from living on the surface of a boat. Durability is about the same and the marine paint can get expensive. ($30-$40 per quart vs. $8-$9 per quart for their original oil enamel) Curing time is definitely longer than automotive paints or aerosols because out of the quart, there just isn't the volatile chemicals that thin and speed the curing, but once cured, preferrably 1 week or more, it is just as durable as any factory automotive or marine paint job. I roll the paint with little 4 inch foam rollers and use just the tip of a 1 or 2 inch brush for the tight spots. Done right, you do not see brush strokes or roller paths. You get a little of that "orange peel" texturing, which is fine because that helps hide imperfections in the body work. Perfection would be a glass-like finish with zero dents, scratches, runs, brush marks, or overspray. Perfection would also be a $2500 bill from a marine dealer or body shop. Slight imperfection, being what I do, results in a bill under $1000.