Did some trailer adjustments and cut out the new transome templates. Was relieved to finally start the woodworking part of the project. I found some curly white oak I plan on using for the interior transom. The exterior transom was cut out of exterior grade plywood sealed with Olympic deck sealer. I will seal both with marine spar varnish. I cut out a template for the transoms from cheap plywood since the transom pieces were too badly rotted to use as templates.
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Alumacraft Model F Mod
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stlbluesfan55
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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360726#p360726 said:
Moving right along aren't you? That's a good looking boat you have there. You will soon be able to, well you know what fisherman do. :---)
Kismet
Well-known member
Swarrior? I think Wisc regs want directional lights up front and tall white light at back from dusk to dawn, but nothing required in daylight. Regs are online if you don't have a pamphlet from some sporting goods counter.
Can't give you an answer on length of trolling motor shaft. They always seem too long for my taste. I don't use mine much. But I'm not much of a fisherman, I just like the boats, motors, and being on the water.
You've tidied your F up nicely. The wood stage is fun. Kind of like making it to the top of a hill.
Lemme see if I can find stuff...
Be safe, have fun.
Can't give you an answer on length of trolling motor shaft. They always seem too long for my taste. I don't use mine much. But I'm not much of a fisherman, I just like the boats, motors, and being on the water.
You've tidied your F up nicely. The wood stage is fun. Kind of like making it to the top of a hill.
Lemme see if I can find stuff...
Be safe, have fun.
Extremely frustrated.
Put the boat in the water for what I thought was a final leak check and the transom seams (where the aft side is riveted to the sides/bottom) are still weeping. Probably need to seal the outside of the seams since there are hundreds of rivets to replace (they're covered by a rib so I can't see which rivets actually leak). I wanted to keep the original look of the boat and not mar it with JB WELD and sanding, but I don't know of any other options. Saw an informertial on Alumaloy (https://www.alumaloy.com/) and was mesmorized, but don't know if it's legitimate. Wanted to avoid painting the entire inside (I agree with Kismet's earlier post). Any thoughts? Most of the weepage was fixed, but there's enough (~6oz/hr) that I'd like to fix it permanently.
Also did a stability check and the boat was pretty wobbly when I walked around on the bench seats. I had hoped to put in a front and rear casting deck, but I don't know anymore. The boat was completely bare and empty (no motor, only me), so I'm not sure if that would add to the stability. If I don't put a casting deck, then it seems like a waste to put in a bow mounted trolling motor, since I'd probably fish from the center. the boat is 54" wide and the seats are 18" from the bottom with 6" of gunwhale over the seats.
One thing to note was the boat only drafted about 1" with me in it and about 1/2" empty according to the guy that works at the base marina that was watching.
Please tinbooat brothers and sisters, you're thoughts on these issues would be appreciated. I did see some other Model F mods, but none had a casting deck that I noticed. Maybe this is the reason.
Put the boat in the water for what I thought was a final leak check and the transom seams (where the aft side is riveted to the sides/bottom) are still weeping. Probably need to seal the outside of the seams since there are hundreds of rivets to replace (they're covered by a rib so I can't see which rivets actually leak). I wanted to keep the original look of the boat and not mar it with JB WELD and sanding, but I don't know of any other options. Saw an informertial on Alumaloy (https://www.alumaloy.com/) and was mesmorized, but don't know if it's legitimate. Wanted to avoid painting the entire inside (I agree with Kismet's earlier post). Any thoughts? Most of the weepage was fixed, but there's enough (~6oz/hr) that I'd like to fix it permanently.
Also did a stability check and the boat was pretty wobbly when I walked around on the bench seats. I had hoped to put in a front and rear casting deck, but I don't know anymore. The boat was completely bare and empty (no motor, only me), so I'm not sure if that would add to the stability. If I don't put a casting deck, then it seems like a waste to put in a bow mounted trolling motor, since I'd probably fish from the center. the boat is 54" wide and the seats are 18" from the bottom with 6" of gunwhale over the seats.
One thing to note was the boat only drafted about 1" with me in it and about 1/2" empty according to the guy that works at the base marina that was watching.
Please tinbooat brothers and sisters, you're thoughts on these issues would be appreciated. I did see some other Model F mods, but none had a casting deck that I noticed. Maybe this is the reason.
stlbluesfan55
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After many many pics of the model F, I have to say this is probable IMHO the best I could find. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/46724914858076370/ or this https://www.pinterest.com/pin/46724914856719357/
But we all know what opinions are like so....
But we all know what opinions are like so....
I love the open floor plan but that would mean not having places for the kids (I have five) to fish when a few of them come along. I thought about removing the center seat for a more open floor and maybe remove the front seat as well. This soul mean there would be a bench acting as a lateral divider of sorts. Plus, I would feel better with the added support a bench would provide. So many options...and frustrations.
stlbluesfan55
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANoSwwITLXY A system too deal with stability issues.
onthewater102
Well-known member
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360809#p360809 said:
Complete CROCK! I thought the same thing and gave it a try - the temperatures you need to heat the aluminum hull to will warp it before the stuff can bond to it. It might work on heavier material like 1/8" angle, but on the thin skins of our boats it's less than worthless - it'll make your project a wavey distorted leaky mess.
Timtactical
Well-known member
I had a few leaky rivets on mine, but not a whole seam. I dont see why gluvit wont fix the problem though. I think the best place to seal is on the water side of the leak.
Thanks for the great tips. I will scrap the alumaloy idea, although they get an "A+" for marketing. Wife and I were mesmerized by the hypnotic infomertial. Plus, the heating would probably melt the interior flexseal in addition to flexing the hull. Flex Seal was great at stopping 99% of the weepage at the seams. It's NOT gap filling, so the seams only leak at the larger gaps.
Was looking at the Gluvit (https://www.amazon.com/Travaco-Gluvit-Epoxy-Waterproof-Sealer/dp/B001446LH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406296514&sr=8-1&keywords=gluvit) and that looks much easier than JB Weld, but what color does it dry? I want to make the seam repair as unnoticable as possible. Any thoughts (other than volume) on Gluvit vs JB Weld? JB Weld seems to blend in pretty good with the hull color, but I'd rather have a dry boat than a pretty one.
I walked away from the boat for a bit and took the kids in the 'Stang to a local cruise night and finally found a pencil eraser-sized hole near the transom when I got back. Hopefully plugging that will take care of the majority of the leakage.
Was looking at the Gluvit (https://www.amazon.com/Travaco-Gluvit-Epoxy-Waterproof-Sealer/dp/B001446LH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406296514&sr=8-1&keywords=gluvit) and that looks much easier than JB Weld, but what color does it dry? I want to make the seam repair as unnoticable as possible. Any thoughts (other than volume) on Gluvit vs JB Weld? JB Weld seems to blend in pretty good with the hull color, but I'd rather have a dry boat than a pretty one.
I walked away from the boat for a bit and took the kids in the 'Stang to a local cruise night and finally found a pencil eraser-sized hole near the transom when I got back. Hopefully plugging that will take care of the majority of the leakage.
Timtactical
Well-known member
The Gluvit dries clear/yellow. You can apply in a more direct manner that I did. (I wanted total coverage over the rivets. I suppose you could tape off 1/2" on each side of the seam and rivet and apply that way. You have quite a bit of time to cure, and summer time is perfect working conditions for it. I painted over it and you cannot tell it is there except before you could see the edge of the rivets. Now they are sealed and only a dimple protrudes. I have pics on my build you can see, and I can take more detailed pics if you like.
onthewater102
Well-known member
Both are epoxy products - Gulvit is designed for aluminum boats so it will be more flexible once cured. JB weld is tough as nails, but by being so rigid it will over time pull free of the aluminum as the aluminum flexes.
As far as which side to apply it - it will be WAY more work to gulvit the entire length of those seams on the interior side - but if you're putting decking in and don't want to fix the leaks rivet by rivet, the gulvit will be protected from abrasion on the inside of the boat by being underneath your decking - it will be exposed to everything in the water and abrasion with the bottom if you use it on the outside.
As far as which side to apply it - it will be WAY more work to gulvit the entire length of those seams on the interior side - but if you're putting decking in and don't want to fix the leaks rivet by rivet, the gulvit will be protected from abrasion on the inside of the boat by being underneath your decking - it will be exposed to everything in the water and abrasion with the bottom if you use it on the outside.
Timtactical
Well-known member
I agree, but the reason I personally chose to seal the exterior surface was to keep water from penetrating anything on the boat. If you coat a seam on the inside the coating will act the same. But if you have a rib on the inside and cannot 100% encapsulate the rib it will continue to leak. Especially where you have a corrugation of the hull material.
Timtactical
Well-known member
Check this out, just a little visual aid.
tonynoriega
Well-known member
sworrior,
I have a 52 Model K, and had some of the same issues you did/do.
I used GluvIt.
Both inside, and outside.
Little paint. Works great.
I have a 52 Model K, and had some of the same issues you did/do.
I used GluvIt.
Both inside, and outside.
Little paint. Works great.
Amazon says gluvit will be here on Monday. I plan to brush it on all of the seams and rivets below the waterline. If I do paint the hull are there any issues with primer or paint on the gluvit?
Worked on the transom tonight and got it cut to size. The boat is upside down on saw horses so I won't be able to fit it until after the hull work.
Heading out in the kayak tomorrow to do some much needed fishing. After all, that's what it's all about!
Worked on the transom tonight and got it cut to size. The boat is upside down on saw horses so I won't be able to fit it until after the hull work.
Heading out in the kayak tomorrow to do some much needed fishing. After all, that's what it's all about!
Timtactical
Well-known member
My gluvit took paint well, I let it set upside down on the trailer in my garage but I was still tacky the next day. So I pulled it out into my driveway into the full sun. 2-90 degree days with full sun did the job.
Not many 90deg days in Wisconsin and given the weather lately, I'll probably have to use space heaters in my garage. Even for up here, this Summer has been chilly. We'll be lucky to hit 70F today, let alone the average high of 86.
Started wire brushing the seams, joints, and rivets and will wipe down with laquer thinner in preparation for the Gluvit.
I plan to use a rattle can primer since I already have enough on hand to do the entire boat. Any problems with this or should I save it for another project?
Any advice on paint selection? After looking around the site, I saw duck-boat paint seemed to get the most approval. I will roll it on and will either go with an OD Green or a Desert Tan color. Would love to get my hands on some of the primer and Haze Gray two-part paint we used on the ship. That stuff was tough as nails.
Will post some pictures of the transom cut to size and the hull progress this evening. Thanks again everyone.
I almost forgot, did some fishing yesterday, spent most of the day fighting the wind and only ended up with a few small gills. Still...
Started wire brushing the seams, joints, and rivets and will wipe down with laquer thinner in preparation for the Gluvit.
I plan to use a rattle can primer since I already have enough on hand to do the entire boat. Any problems with this or should I save it for another project?
Any advice on paint selection? After looking around the site, I saw duck-boat paint seemed to get the most approval. I will roll it on and will either go with an OD Green or a Desert Tan color. Would love to get my hands on some of the primer and Haze Gray two-part paint we used on the ship. That stuff was tough as nails.
Will post some pictures of the transom cut to size and the hull progress this evening. Thanks again everyone.
I almost forgot, did some fishing yesterday, spent most of the day fighting the wind and only ended up with a few small gills. Still...
