Can the trolling motor MOTOR be removed to shorten the shaft?

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HLS

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This question is for my Endura 55. All the video's show removing the head then cutting the shaft--then reconnecting all the wires. If the bottom end motor is removable, could not the shaft be shortened and 5 inches of excess wire just tucked back in without disconnecting and reconnecting every wire?
 
I take it that adjusting height using the locking collar will put the handle at the wrong height.

I'm not sure of the answer to your question but wonder why you want to remove the motor instead of the control head. If there is room to tuck the wires in why not do it at the top of the shaft. If it turns out there is no room you can always shorten the wires and reconnect to the head unit.
 
I watched a video years ago where a person removed the head and cut the shaft, split it up the side and removed it the piece of shaft without disconnecting the wires. Just have to be real careful I guess.
 
I take it that adjusting height using the locking collar will put the handle at the wrong height.

I'm not sure of the answer to your question but wonder why you want to remove the motor instead of the control head. If there is room to tuck the wires in why not do it at the top of the shaft. If it turns out there is no room you can always shorten the wires and reconnect to the head unit.
Looks like Gil Hunter reported the opposite can be done. I'm looking to make a perfect length for a kayak and wanted to avoid disconnecting and reconnecting the wires.
 
I take it that adjusting height using the locking collar will put the handle at the wrong height.

I'm not sure of the answer to your question but wonder why you want to remove the motor instead of the control head. If there is room to tuck the wires in why not do it at the top of the shaft. If it turns out there is no room you can always shorten the wires and reconnect to the head unit.
I'm looking to make a perfect length for a kayak and wanted to avoid disconnecting and reconnecting the wires by messing with the head.
 
Remove one bolt and you can lift up the head. Use a pipe cutter ( the kind that tightens onto pipe) and cut shaft to length. You can then split the section you want to remove lengthwise to avoid disconnecting wires. I used a dremel when I did this a dewault or similar multi tool with a carbide blade would be faster I think. You can than neatly fold up and zip tie the excess wiring and tuck it into shaft. Sand the shaft and put the head back on and your good to go. I did this about 10yrs ago on a 55 endura that had way to long of a shaft for my alumacraft.
 
The lower motor housing is threaded to the shaft with red loctite, that's what creates the waterproof seal. Removing the shaft always damages the threads and needs a fair bit of heat to remove. This usually requires either a new shaft or you could cut it and tap it with new threads if you had the correct thread pitch and size. That is not worth the effort.
FWIW, cutting the wires and reconnecting them with waterproof butt connectors inside the head isn't difficult at all and will make your life easier.
 
I replaced the motor housing on my minn kota riptide last year because of a damaged skeg. On minn kota, the wires at the head simply plug into the head. The shaft at the bottom is threaded for the motor housing, so you would want to cut the shaft at the head. I remember seeing a youtube video that did exactly what you are asking. If I remember correctly, he removed both the motor and the head. The head isn't hard to remove- the motor housing is much more difficult. Your challenge will be dealing with the wires - either cutting around them or trying to fish them back out if you push them into the shaft.
 
I'd have to agree with the pipe cutter and cutoff wheel method. The only downside is having to find room for the extra length of wire(s) in the head.

Roger
 
Interesting. I also have a waaaay tall trolling motor. Quite uncomfortable to use. Was wondering if I could knock a half foot or so off the shaft to make it a little easier to run. Do these things come in diff lengths or something? Mine seems way too dang tall for a normal boat.
 
Interesting. I also have a waaaay tall trolling motor. Quite uncomfortable to use. Was wondering if I could knock a half foot or so off the shaft to make it a little easier to run. Do these things come in diff lengths or something? Mine seems way too dang tall for a normal boat.
Yes multiple lengths are made.
 
This question is for my Endura 55. All the video's show removing the head then cutting the shaft--then reconnecting all the wires. If the bottom end motor is removable, could not the shaft be shortened and 5 inches of excess wire just tucked back in without disconnecting and reconnecting every wire?

It is a LOT more work to remove the motor foot. And you risk damaging the shaft and the threads, which may require replacing the shaft.

Remember, you only have to remove the two wires from the motor head, not every wire up there.
 
That’s a carbon fiber tube and it will splinter if it isn’t cut properly. Commercially they are cut with a water jet. Here’s how I have cut CF tubes at home.

1. Wrap a layer or two of masking tape over the area where you intend to cut.
2. Mark the cut line and cut with a fine hacksaw blade or fine cutting wheel.
3. Remove the tape and repair any loose fibers with epoxy.

Cut the top of the shaft and use caution to avoid nicking the wires.
I have a TERROVA shaft that I want shorten and this is method that I’ll use. If you can, slide a metal tube down the ID of the carbon tube to protect the wires.
 
All three of the Minn Kota motors I've worked on had spade connectors at the head under shrink wrap including my 2019 build 36v Ulterra. I don't know what year your Endura is but I just looked at the 'fiche for a '19 to '23 and it appears to be the same.
 
A few years ago someone gave me a way too long Riptide motor. He got it from some auction for a couple bucks. It ran fine but unless I wanted to use it standing up it was too tall. I removed the control head, then took a piece of 1/2" CPVC and ran it down over the wires where the cut was going to be. I then cut the shaft using an abrasive wheel. The CPVC tube protected the wires.
I didn't even bother to cut the wires, I just doubled up the extra and stuck in down into the tube and reassembled it. I cut out about 18" or so total.
The shaft is like a giant fishing rod, just resin and fiber, cut it just like you would any fiberglass or composite material.
I saved the cut off piece of shaft, filled it with spray foam, and put a grip on one end and its a floating fish billy club for the big boat. Sort of like a heavy duty little bat.
The motor lives on my crabbing boat now as back up and a means to move around short distances without starting up the gas engine in the shallows.
 
Great use of the extra part. Not sure it will float, though. My Riptide shaft was very thick and heavy. Great to use as a bat, though. Nice thinking!

A cutoff wheel does a great job of cutting off a TM shaft. Just take your time so you don't cut any wires.
 

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