Filling holes in the hull

[moberg12]

I've got probably 2 dozen holes I need to fix in my boat. All of the holes were drilled by the previous owner to mount various accessories most of them are in the transom. The rest of the holes are in the bow, or above the water line on the sides. I've tried Durafix with mixed results, I've been able to fill the holes but the heat is warping the hull. So any ideas you guys have would be great. I'm don't really want to fill the holes with rivets that could potentially leak.

Thanks in advance

 

[Howard]

Welded would be the best. Proper rivet installation with 5200 will not leak. What was your heat source when you did the Durafix?

 

[perchin]

Proper rivet installation with 5200 will not leak.

Actually..... proper rivet installation would NOT require 5200..... but rather improper installation would. :wink:

I don't really want to fill the holes with rivets that could potentially leak.

depends more on how thick your trying to go through.... Are you going through just the thickness of the hull or through both the hull and wood? If both wood and hull, I would use a stainless steel bolt, 2 fender washers, lock washer, nut, with 5200. If just the hull then rivets should not give ya much problems, 90% of the tins out there are completely riveted hulls, and if done with the correct methods you should not have any leaks.

Drill out the holes so they are perfectly round, make sure there are no burs by hitting each side lightly with an emry cloth, use a rivet that is just smaller than the hole, and is a solid aluminum rivet. If ya need help on how to buck them we can help.

 

[bobberboy]

I had thought of having the holes in my project welded shut then grinding and finishing. I went to a welder and his advice was to get a two-part epoxy material he said he's used a lot and is confident will do a good long-lasting job. I bought it at a welding supply shop. I'm going to give a try and hope for the best. It was about $7.50 for a 2oz. kit.

 

[moberg12]

Welded would be the best. Proper rivet installation with 5200 will not leak. What was your heat source when you did the Durafix?

I've been using a propane torch.

 

[Nevillizer]

I've got probably 2 dozen holes I need to fix in my boat. All of the holes were drilled by the previous owner to mount various accessories most of them are in the transom. The rest of the holes are in the bow, or above the water line on the sides. I've tried Durafix with mixed results, I've been able to fill the holes but the heat is warping the hull. So any ideas you guys have would be great. I'm don't really want to fill the holes with rivets that could potentially leak.

Thanks in advance

I have the same problem on my Duracraft, the durafix stuff wasn't quite working out right. I have used the epoxies like water weld etc. with good results. But, what I would suggest is using either "blind" closed end rivets or stainless steel bolts. Dab a little silicone around the hole then insert your rivet / bolt then buck / tighten. This will get you a good water tight seal.

 

[bobberboy]

I just finished patching the holes in my boat with the epoxy mentioned above. I'm going to let it cure until tomorrow and then sand. I'll let you know how it goes...

 

[huntinfool]

I've used a 2 part epoxy on mine and I have not had any problems.

 

[moberg12]

I'll give the epoxy a try. All the holes below the water line will be coated with steelfex so that should increase protection.

 

[Howard]

Actually..... proper rivet installation would NOT require 5200..... but rather improper installation would

Not saying it's "required" but could be added if any concerns of leaks, below the water line I use a dab for added insurance because they can work loose over time

I've been using a propane torch.

I did the same with mixed results also,. Some places it would get the aluminum to the proper temp and other places it would not, causing warping. The heat would just disburse to quickly throughout the aluminum. Going to try and use Mapp gas, comes in the yellow can at the home centers. Does require a different torch head but burns hotter which will heat quicker.

 

[moberg12]

I did the same with mixed results also,. Some places it would get the aluminum to the proper temp and other places it would not, causing warping. The heat would just disburse to quickly throughout the aluminum. Going to try and use Mapp gas, comes in the yellow can at the home centers. Does require a different torch head but burns hotter which will heat quicker.

That is the same problem I'm having. The propane just doesn't seem to get hot enough to make the rod flow. I did manage to fill 4 holes but I haven't hit them with the grinder yet. I'll pick up some Mapp gas on the way home tonight and report back.

 

[Howard]

I'll pick up some Mapp gas on the way home tonight and report back.

Sounds good, I am curious how the Mapp will help. Heard good things but warning that it's hot enough to burn through your tin. I think the tourch and tank is around $45. I would not use epoxy filler below the water line on holes that go clear through the aluminum unless there was something behind the hole to reinforce.

 

[Nevillizer]

I used both the propane and mapp gas but didn't make much of a difference. I think it has to do with the aluminum alloy that the boat is made of as well. I just can't get it to bond well.

 

[bobberboy]

The epoxy cured in about 8 hours and man, is it ever a nice job. I sanded a few down and they're perfect. I am going to post on my project thread in case anyone is interested.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14501

 

[Troutman3000]

The epoxy cured in about 8 hours and man, is it ever a nice job. I sanded a few down and they're perfect. I am going to post on my project thread in case anyone is interested.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14501

Have you seen this stuff online at all?

 

[moberg12]

The epoxy cured in about 8 hours and man, is it ever a nice job. I sanded a few down and they're perfect. I am going to post on my project thread in case anyone is interested.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14501

I'm going to order some of this tonight!!!

I just came back in from trying the mapp gas and durafix and I'm still having the same problem. By the time i get it hot enough to make the rod flow the hull begins to warp. Not to mention when I do get a hole filled I can push it out from the inside with a screw driver once it has completely cooled. I'm pretty disappointed with durafix!!

What about a fiberglass patch do you think that would work??

P.S.
When the liquid hot durafix material drips and lands on your bare leg it hurts pretty bad :evil:

 

[Howard]

I used both the propane and mapp gas but didn't make much of a difference. I think it has to do with the aluminum alloy that the boat is made of as well. I just can't get it to bond well.

My issues are different. Where I got the aluminum hot enough it melted the rod and I have a strong bond. Other places the rod will not melt because I could not get the surface hot enough. Maybe time for plan "B"

 

[bobberboy]

The epoxy cured in about 8 hours and man, is it ever a nice job. I sanded a few down and they're perfect. I am going to post on my project thread in case anyone is interested.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14501

Have you seen this stuff online at all?

I haven't looked as I could get it locally. I'll look on the package to see if there's any info. I went to a welding shop for mine. I just finished my post with pics if you want to see the result.

 

[bobberboy]

Have you seen this stuff online at all?

Here is their home page. The stuff I used was called "SuperWeld" but I noticed they also have a marine variety.

https://www.biosafe-inc.com/epoxies.htm

If you can't find it I can always mail some to you...

 

[Howard]

I have heard good things about there "Coat-it"....... Similar to steelflex. Iam going to try some and compare,,,