Forward console Weldbilt build

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That is what I found too ..... but, photos can be deceiving.
I can not find any kind of mounting instructions on the web
for shark eye nav lights. I have heard a few times that they
are not allowed in Florida, but, I can not find a USCG rule
that says "no". They are only "under review" by the USCG.
I guess until something terrible happens and people are killed
will the USCG make a firm ruling.
Testing at night like I described is the best way to make sure
you are safe on the water at night.
 
If you look at one end compared to the other there is more of a tapper to let the light shine either forward or more to the side depending on the angle of the boat they are installed on. Like someone stated earlier you want to see both colors straight ahead. I don't know this for a fact but there might not be a wrong way or a right might depend on the boat of witch way to aim them.
 
Up date time. Finished wiring in the lights, interior lights, and ordered a spotlight for setting deeks in the pre-dawn. The old 40 prop pushes it ok, but beating up a hard to find lower unit, and banging up props is for the birds. Scored this 89 90/65 on cl for $100 per cylinder!
20151114_110923_zpsdcoennlx.jpg

Compression checked out fine, cleaned it up some, and mounted it. Still have to hook up controls and wire it in, Seafoam it, and then paint it camo.
Where is a good place to find a low pressure grease gun for lubing the jet-pump? Any other advice on omc v4's is appreciated, thanks!
 
riverrat that is a very impressive job that you have done, looks OEM from the pictures. Congrats and I'm sure you'll be having a blast on it.

Tight lines!
 
bonz_d said:
riverrat that is a very impressive job that you have done, looks OEM from the pictures. Congrats and I'm sure you'll be having a blast on it.

Tight lines!


Thanks bonz_d!!
And thank you to all who reply, and view my build! This is my first jet boat, and this is a great forum!


Here's a pic of me with the first fish landed it the new boat, taken 10/4.
IMG957619_zpsbetmub4d.jpg
 
rob.hildebrand.7 said:
How well does your setup perform? I want to do basically the same thing but with a flat weldcraft


Over all, I'm very happy with this setup. The only thing I can think of, would be to have moved the console right up to the front deck, to see the bottom better, but then there would have been no room for the front seat post, as it's close to the edge of the front deck. Also, a tunnel would be nice with the jet. And uhmw on the bottom.
But as I understand(correct me if I'm wrong)....jets like a small amount of deadrise in the hull to reduce cavitation.
 
The reason I want a flat bottom is that I want to go as shallow and as fast as possible and be able to power slide it pretty easy yes there can be an issue with cavitation but mostly that is in choppy water from my experience and the upper Potomac and Monocacy rivers are pretty smooth so I feel that ,the flat bottom is going to work the best for me
 
Got my trolling motor and mounting bracket installed
20160222_144823_zpsm8fas8ay.jpg

Now, to find a place for 3 batteries and a 30amp 3 bank charger. I want to be sure I have good weight distribution, so should I put them under the console? With a 7'(estimate) run of 6ga wire to TM??

Or cut an oval shaped hole in the deck bulkhead, to mount everything in the bow?

Eventually, When funds allow, I plan on extending the front deck to the console, with storage under it for a larger fuel tank, which is why I'm leaning towards batteries under console. What do ya'll think??
 
Got some work done recently. Since I decided to mount my TM batteries under the console, I had to attach it to the boat the way I wanted to from the beginning. Originally, I screwed it to the floor, which is a PITA to deal with if I ever needed to pull it up again. So I went out and an 8' piece of 3"x3"x1/4" angle and a 4' piece of 1 1/4"x1 1/4"x1/4" angle for $30. I cut the 3x3 to fit in between the ribs in two spots, with a 2' piece in between (not pictured) to frame out the console, and had them welded in for a little bit more than the cost of the angle! Now I can attach the console directly to the hull, and my flooring will lift out no problem. With the left over 1 1/4' angle, I'll make a battery tray to mount under the console.
20160226_162905_zpsls7mccdk.jpg

20160226_162942_zpswhuru2z8.jpg
 
Good idea for the console! Just be careful mounting the batteries. I had problems with the welds on the ribs of my 1752. They're not as strong as they look. Make sure you distribute the weight as much as possible.
 
mbweimar said:
Good idea for the console! Just be careful mounting the batteries. I had problems with the welds on the ribs of my 1752. They're not as strong as they look. Make sure you distribute the weight as much as possible.

Yes....I'v seen your thread [-o< Did your boat also have all the bracing on the ribs? I have bracing that starts on the 2 ribs in the pic, think they braced them all to the bow.
 
You know what...no mine does have that. I don't wanna hijack this thread, but it appears those ribs may be strong enough to withstand the weight of the batteries and console, but still use caution!
 
Finished fabing my console grab bar, and had my welder zip it up. Big shout out to Regal Metal Works for all the help and very fair prices.
20160323_171605_zpscvpckmf7.jpg

20160323_181138_zpswwz6si9p.jpg


Next big project will be a rod rack for the stern, for catfishing.
Also thinking about getting longitudinal stringers, similar to whats under the console, welded through out. Opinions?
 
I'm really liking what this tinboater has done for rods
3c9696340430c33acf2be2b25b99a73e.jpg



Alumacraft 1448MV - Catfish, Casting & Bowfishing
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?t=15412

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mbweimar said:
Dude, that boat will NEVER leak with 460 mils of polyurea. How much did that cost you?
Just under 3k. 460mils @ the last 4' and down the middle, around 278 280 on the rest of the bottom.
 

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