G3 1448PF performance with 25 hp Yamaha 2-stroke

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Took the boat out and I forgot the gps ](*,)
The tach is not reading right but it think I know how to fix it.
We had three in the boat and I think it was running very close to 6000 rpm's.
Will try again later in the week.
 
I found out what the problem with the tach was. Had to wind the wire around both spark plug cables. Now it works fine.
Took the boat out again and this time I brought the GPS.

Here is the prop I am running: 9-7/8" diameter x 11-1/4" pitch.


Test #1
With 3 aboard: (persons and gear approx. 460 pounds)
Boat with motor: 545 pounds
Total weight: 1005 pounds
Boat speed 28 MPH
Engine RPM's 5920

Test #2
With 2 aboard: (persons and gear approx. 280 pounds)
Boat with motor: 545 pounds
Total weight: 825 pounds
Boat speed 29 MPH
Engine RPM's 6040

Test #3
With 1 aboard: (persons and gear approx. 200 pounds)
Boat with motor: 545 pounds
Total weight: 745 pounds
Boat speed 30 MPH
Engine RPM's 6130


So, the question is, why can it reach 30 MPH with only 210 RPM increase from test #1
As I mentioned before the lighter the load the less prop slip?
Possibly the progressive pitch prop?

Another question is it best to leave the prop alone or go up to a 12" pitch prop.
As it is I feel the performance is amazing. I have not timed it but getting up on plane is very fast.

I need to get batteries for the camera to video this. I know it is hard to believe.
 
With three grown adults the tach read 5833. Could not get the speed but I am satisfied with the performance. No reason to change the prop. Persons and gear weight was aprox 550 lbs.
 
If you increase the pitch your RPMs will drop and your hole shot and economy will too. I don’t think you will gain anything really.

I would like to see those trim tabs you are referring to also.
 
I also believe that increasing the pitch will reduce hole hot performance and will not do anything for top end.

Been so busy that I have not had a chance to take any more pictures or videos. Hopefully soon.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360937#p360937 said:
hwew » 25 Jul 2014, 12:48[/url]"]With three grown adults the tach read 2833. Could not get the speed but I am satisfied with the performance. No reason to change the prop. Persons and gear weight was aprox 550 lbs.

Oops,
The tach read 5833.
 
Had the boat out Sunday. Finally broken in and now running 50 to 1 mix. The setup is great. Fast enough and very stable. No regrets with the purchase.
 
Took the boat out for the first time since last year. The engine started up 2nd pull. Gave it a good run for a couple hours at 4500-5000 rpm. This engine seems very efficient at those rpm's. The boat is ready for the season and we will be taking it out to check out places on Falls Lake near Raleigh NC. This boat and engine combo has been a good investment. I have no regrets. It feels safe and gets the job done.
 
Hwew, just give that motor to me. You don't use it enough. I can be there tomorrow at 5:30.
 
:shock: :roflmao: Carolina, they can still be found, check out zoomthelist.com Its a national search engine that I use to find stuff. I found the engine in Pennsylvania. I had the boat out three times since I last posted. I feel they are one of the most sought after engines because of the power to weight ratio. I do know the engine planes the boat and gets it up to full speed effortlessly. Throttling the engine back to 4000-4500 rpm's sure saves lots of fuel. I need to get the GPS out and see how fast the boat is traveling at those rpm's. The Yamaha 25hp 2-stroke is an engine that has a proven record. Unfortunately it will be harder to find them. I wish Yamaha would come out with a 25hp direct injected 2 stroke that will compete against Evinrude.
 
hwew said:
Had the boat out Sunday. Finally broken in and now running 50 to 1 mix. The setup is great. Fast enough and very stable. No regrets with the purchase.


25ESH should be 100:1 for optimal performance. Running extra does nothing but make more mess, unburned oil running down the skeg, carbon up the rings and piston tops, make more smoke, and runs the fuel/air mixture a little leaner. It's designed for 100:1 an should be run as such.

6130 RPM with 11 1/4" pitch is REAL close to 30mpg GPS, exactly what I was seeing last time on the water with the 4 stroke-and same prop. 6130 rpm at 29.9-30.0 on the gps. Going to a 12" prop doesn't help anything really. Most of the ones I've tested ran about the same MPH, at less RPM, and suffered a significant loss of hole-shot. Especially when loaded down with deeks, shotguns, dog, and shells-among other things. I personally think that the factory white 11 1/4" pitch prop is a great all-around prop, with few stainless props giving enough performance gain to justify their cost. Only one I liked any better was the Turbo 10x11 hotshot and the only reason I liked it any better was because it gave me a tiny bit more bow lift which I needed. On mine, the trim pin in hole #3 was too low, and #4 would porpoise, so I tried (borrowed) a hotshot 11" and liked it, then bought one of my own. It put me right between the pin holes as far as bow lift, and picked up about a half mph.
 
Hello turbotodd your calculations are pretty much right on with propping. The standard pitched prop is the right combo for my use.

About running 50 to 1 here is something I posted a while back. Please look through the abrasiveness how it was written a while back.


Posted 8/26/2010

My 1995 Yamaha 6hp manual said 100to1 pleasure use. And 50to1 Commercial use. Yamaha stopped printing 50to1 commercial use a few years after I purchased my engine.

Here is the way I look at it. When Yamaha made that change in the manual a few years later the 6 hp outboard parts has not changed at all. This tells me Yamaha probably was forced to change the oil ratio to pass new emissons standards. Will I ever run 100 to 1 in my outboard? NO. Why? Because I never had one engine problem with all the outboards I owned. And I put more hours on in a week than most put on in a year. I never had carbon problems at all. Of course I run a ring free additive. I only put one new set of plugs in my outboard every year.

People that run 100 to 1 and don't have problems, Hats off to you. But I will just keep wth 50to1.

50 to 1 will not cause problems if you maintain your engine.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Posted 5/10/2015

I just looked up parts from the years of 1988 through 2005 for the 25 hp Yamaha 2-strokes.
1. Pistons
2. Rings
3. Carb main nozzle
4. Carb main jet
5. Carb pilot jet
All parts listed above for the 25 hp engine have the same part numbers for the years of 1988 through 2005. And possibly through the end of production of the 25hp 2-stroke.

I like to know where the info came from about running 50 to 1 will cause lean run issues? Especially when the parts listed above are the same. This comments as such on the forum and others might not have any credibility since all parts listed are identical and if an older manual states to use 50 to 1 for commercial use.

I do know it's very tough pulling up older manuals. It looks like Yamaha might of covered their tracks very well. But one thing they did not do is change part numbers.

This could be the perfect opportunity to learn more about 100 to 1 vs. 50 to 1.
If we can find some members with hard copies of owners manuals from 1988 through 1995 and see what is written about commercial use this might clear up debates. It might be perfectly ok to run 50 to 1 for commercial use. It might be be best for owners that do not run their engine hard to stick with 100 to 1.
 
About props. How good is the Turbo Hotshot compared to the Yamaha S.S. Progressive prop?Or just stay with the OEM aluminum progressive pitch prop?
 
I just learned that precision propeller industries is owned by Yamaha. So the Turbo Hotshot has to be a decent prop.
 
Today I found some info about the 25hp twin cylinder, twin carbed engines. From 1988 through 1995 it looks like these engines came with oil injection as a standard equipment. From 1996 through 1997 it looks like oil injection was equipped on some models. From 1998 till end of production it looks like they were all premix. I found out oil injected models pumped roughly the same amount oil as 50-1 ratio at full throttle. So it seems that a 50-1 ratio should be fine on premix outboards that will be used hard.

When I got home I called 5 of the closet Yamaha outboard dealers and ask what ratio should I run. All 5 said 50-1. I questioned 2 of the dealers and they said yes you can run 100-1 if you want but they recommend 50-1. One of the service techs said he has the same engine and all he runs is 50-1. I ask how many hours and he did not know but he said it's a lot of hours. I think it seems funny that all 5 dealers recommended 50-1. Do they know something that Yamaha will not disclose? Yamaha national support did mention that lots of owners run 50-1 and that is far as the discussion went. Tech support did not mention that 50-1 would cause damage to the engine.

So, I feel it's safe to continue to run 50-1 since the engine is ran near 4500 to 6000 rpm's about 80% of the time.
 
I will not argue with 5 dealers. All 5 are dead wrong.

That is a 100:1 motor. Almost all of the sub 40hp premix motors were 100:1. Even some of the 40's were 100:1.

Break in period is 50:1. Thereafter 100:1, as stated in your Yamaha owners manual (page 33, IIRC) and also the service manuals. At 50:1 it will idle rough and you'll get some black goo out of the prop area from the exhaust system...and carbons up the rings quicker than normal. Run much better at 100:1 and this is from someone who deals with these things daily. Every one of the 50:1 mixed 25's runs considerably rougher than the 100:1 motors do.

Precision blend can't be compared to premix because it is totally different. Yes a lot of the same internal parts are the same. The oil is injected at a very low rate at low RPM and a higher rate at higher RPM because the pump runs off of the crankshaft. Also, the oil is injected into the engine-not into the carburetors. Those were great motors that idled considerably better than the premix motors did. The highest oil to fuel ratio is somewhere in the neighborhood of 100:1 at full throttle full speed. At idle, it's probably closer to 250:1. At least that's what I was taught, on the 25's only. Probably why they idled so much better.

Yes yamaha owns Turbo. The hotshot is a good prop. I have one. 11" pitch. Gets up on plane a little quicker than the aluminum white prop and maybe 1 mph faster. More bow lift-which is what I needed but everyone's boat is different. I think the 11" is about all these motors will turn and still perform acceptably. I've run some with 12" and they seemed to run exactly the same mph but struggled a little more to get on plane. Especially with heavily loaded boats. It takes Turbo about a month to make a prop, from start of the drawing to the final packaging. They actually double and triple check every aspect of the prop. Any mistakes found, they melt it down and make more props. Top notch props for the money. Some companies can wake them up a little with some prop blueprinting but IMO, unless you're racing a 25hp class, it's not worth the money.

I actually have a VENTED white aluminum factory 11 1/4" prop that worked great on the 4 stroke. I use it for a spare as it performs identical to a 11" turbo up to about 4500 RPM, then the turbo will start to pull it a little.
 
Turbotodd,
Thanks for getting back. I think I will try 100-1. Do you work for a dealer. You seem very knowledgeable on Yamaha's. You seem to understand these 25's and you definitely understand propping. I guess quite a few dealers including myself have a rough time understanding how the Yamaha outboards hold up to such lean conditions. I do know Evinrude tried 100-1 for a while and than decided to go back to 50-1. Is part of the reason why Yamaha can run 50-1 is that the oil got better? Another good question is should I run Yamalube 2M only? Or is Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-Cycle Outboard Oil Ok? What about yamahas ring free additive. Is it needed or does Yamalube 2M have ring free blended in the oil.
I would like to get another prop and keep the Orem as a spare. It seems like your boat might be comparable to what I have what the weight of your setup? I'm thinking of a turbo hotshot. I took it out myself today and the rpm's peaked at times to 6180. When I have my daughter with me with a cooler it will normaly run between 5970 and 6040. With the 11-1/4" pitch prop. I do understand the the turbo hotshots are slightly larger in diameter. This might make the 11" pitch turbo run with and slightly faster than the stock 11-1/4" pitch prop.
 
Just raised the motor 7/8". The bottom of the cavitation plate is 1/8" higher than the bottom of the hull. Will be bringing the GPS and see what it does.
 
Tested the boat out and the prop would cavitate some on taking off and taking turns. The GPS read 30 mph at 6140 RPM's. Lowered the motor 3/16" to the height of 11/16" help lowering cavitation. After testing it turns out that raising the motor only 3/8" from stock height is best. So, tomorrow the 3/8" block will go back. There was no measurable difference in speed.
 
11" hotshot prop will probably get you 1 to 1.5 mph at most. RPM will not change a lot. Holeshot doesn't change-if anything, it's a little better than the 11 1/4" white prop. The turbo Hotshot is really efficient but in your case I don't think it's worth the money. If you want one, and decide to order it, if you get it directly from a Yamaha dealer shipping is free. (yamaha picks up the shipping costs only if shipped directly to a dealer). Plus you get dealer support, if that makes any difference to you.

I suggest Yamalube 2M if you go to 100:1. From what I was taught, the quicksilver stuff is just oil, about the cheapest that can be had. There is a difference if you put some QS oil in your hand, then put some 2M in your hand. The 2M is a little thicker and kind of stays together better when you pour it. Hard to explain but it's good stuff. I don't like either one....or any 2 stroke oil for that matter. Smoke. To each their own. I'm not a fan of firing up a cold outboard and drowning in my own outboard smoke. I will say this: Whether it be 2M or QS or 2W (2w is some neat stuff, doesn't smoke quite as much), at 100:1 fuel mix the engine will idle better and the biggest difference comes at about 1/4 throttle when accelerating. Right around 25% throttle, the engine has a miss-it's not a misfire so much as it's a characteristic of the 2 stroke engine and the timing advance. With 100:1, it's considerably smoother in that area. Then when you're done using the motor and it's sitting on the trailer, you won't get any of that black crap dripping out of the prop (unburned oil). Which also means you won't be putting as much into the water.

I understand the thought of running 50:1, and if it runs fine and you're used to it, by all means use it. But I always try to explain to people that it was designed from the get-go to run at 100:1 and you don't know what you're missing out on if you don't try it. Them old autolube engines ran about 250:1 oil mix at idle speed. There wasn't anything set in stone about that mix ratio but it ain't much oil. Commercial rating was 50:1 mainly because of the thought of a commercial angler idling for very long periods of time....8-10-12 hours a day. At 250:1, eventually the engine would show signs of breakdown over a period of years using them at idle for hours and hours on end, day after day.

The carbs are pre-set at the factory, idle screws are "capped" (no adjustment) and designed around 100:1. What I sometimes find when messing with them is that the owner might decide to keep it at 50:1 (which is twice as much oil than it was designed for), and I'll find myself having to richen up the idle mixture a little bit-and putting a little more idle timing in it (5° instead of 7°). This helps them idle better. As I said before, when you run 50:1, the jets only can pass so much liquid through them at a certain pressure. The pressure doesn't change. (atmospheric). If you have twice as much oil, you're reducing the amount of gas that can go through the same orifices, replacing it with oil. So effectively, even though the engine gets plenty of oil, it's running lean-which is why I find myself richening up the idle mixture a little on the ones that complain about idle quality and "oil leaks".
 

Latest posts

Top