derekdiruz
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I love the floor idea. I will be taking this idea in some form or fashion for my 1542!
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How I added decks, storage, and floor to Alumacraft 1442NCS
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hbouldin1216
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This is still the best way I've seen to mount a transom trolling motor up on the bow. Once my broken leg heals, I plan to do the same on for mine, and will be installing a plug type connector to the front and rear battery compartments so that I can easily move the motor fore and aft as needed.
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=42074
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=42074
abevelheimer
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I like that rod holder idea and you can put a lock and hasp on it as well if you want to leave your gear in it overnight or some sort of locking mechanism to keep thieves at bay if you park it outside ect.
-CN-
Well-known member
That is true and there is one trip I went on with a friend where I considered the need to have those compartments locked. Even thought about a bar that goes crossways over all three hatches and locks down at both sides. I would want it completely removable so that it's not a tripping hazard like a hasp would be. An internal cabinet lock with just the key hole exposed would be the way to go. I don't ever leave my gear in my boat overnight unless it's in my yard and I know that I'm using the same gear the next day. Otherwise it goes in the house, in the car, or even in the hotel room.abevelheimer said:
johnnybassboat
Well-known member
Love the in floor rod storage idea, wish I would have thought of that when I did my 1648. Looks like a great boat for the smaller lakes and the Wisconsin river. Maybe I will see ya around. Good luck and tight lines.
-CN-
Well-known member
It is all sealed with three coats of spar urethane.
For anyone wanting in-floor rod storage, I'd like to post a disclaimer: while I'm pleased with the finished look of what I have done, practicality has made me want to redo it. Please analyze your process from loading to launching to fishing before you decide to do it. While I really appreciate being able to store all my rods below deck (up to 10 of them with this design) I find it to be an inconvenience getting to them while on the water. I want my rods out and handy while fishing, and this scenario wastes a bunch of empty storage space once I make them quickly accessable by pulling them all out and covering the hatches with gear.
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For anyone wanting in-floor rod storage, I'd like to post a disclaimer: while I'm pleased with the finished look of what I have done, practicality has made me want to redo it. Please analyze your process from loading to launching to fishing before you decide to do it. While I really appreciate being able to store all my rods below deck (up to 10 of them with this design) I find it to be an inconvenience getting to them while on the water. I want my rods out and handy while fishing, and this scenario wastes a bunch of empty storage space once I make them quickly accessable by pulling them all out and covering the hatches with gear.
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-CN-
Well-known member
Depending on if a buddy wants to buy this boat or not (he does, just probably doesn't want to give me what I have to have for it), I will be redoing it for myself.
I'm going to lower the floor back down as low as possible and use just a lightweight material to support carpet over the foam that I pack between the ribs. Will extend the front deck rearward to create enough space for a dedicated tackle storage hatch and a base for a pedestal seat. Then behind that, a mid-height "step" that contains my batteries. I will put rod storage on the starboard side, even top height to the front and rear decks. Then, depending on how I like the amount of floor space that remains, I may extend the rear deck forward as well, again, to put my rear battery in.
Getting a bow-mount trolling motor - probably a 24v 70lb, and a new Tohatsu 9.8hp. I might go back to all-electric though and just put a second 70lb 24v transom mount on. I'm worried about adding the weight of 3 extra batteries over what I'm running now (one front one back - would need to go to 2 front and then add 2 more in rear for all-electric 24v setup.) Two extra batteries plus the weight of a trolling motor (about 30lbs) is about 75lbs heavier than an outboard and a tank of fuel. Can't imagine I'd save 75lbs on my build though my intention is to make it even lighter.
I'm going to lower the floor back down as low as possible and use just a lightweight material to support carpet over the foam that I pack between the ribs. Will extend the front deck rearward to create enough space for a dedicated tackle storage hatch and a base for a pedestal seat. Then behind that, a mid-height "step" that contains my batteries. I will put rod storage on the starboard side, even top height to the front and rear decks. Then, depending on how I like the amount of floor space that remains, I may extend the rear deck forward as well, again, to put my rear battery in.
Getting a bow-mount trolling motor - probably a 24v 70lb, and a new Tohatsu 9.8hp. I might go back to all-electric though and just put a second 70lb 24v transom mount on. I'm worried about adding the weight of 3 extra batteries over what I'm running now (one front one back - would need to go to 2 front and then add 2 more in rear for all-electric 24v setup.) Two extra batteries plus the weight of a trolling motor (about 30lbs) is about 75lbs heavier than an outboard and a tank of fuel. Can't imagine I'd save 75lbs on my build though my intention is to make it even lighter.
-CN-
Well-known member
I done redid it. Or did redone it. :mrgreen:
An idea I had to make this boat very light was to use foam panels for everything unless it absolutely needs to support weight on its own. I discussed my idea a long time back in this thread here: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=42872
To much skepticism, I gave it a try. And it works awesome. All my decking and floor, since it is basically over the top of the factory aluminum decks and benches, is foam insulation panels that weigh nearly nothing. The carpet that I wrapped them in weighs more than the panels. The only plywood on the boat is the hatch lids. There is minor framing done with 1x2s.
Under one hatch up front is a cheapo styrofoam cooler that I custom built the compartment around. I insulated the compartment with 2" foam and then I can insert the cooler right in there. I cut a small hatch opening into the main top hatch just to throw the fish in without opening the whole top. I can open the large hatch and pull the cooler completely out to clean it. I do not use a livewell, the fish go directly on ice.
I have a front battery and a rear battery, and they are connected in parallel. The front battery moves to the back (offsets the weight of the gas engine for better weight distribution) when I go all-electric. The wiring that connects the batteries together is installed under the floor so that same wiring doubles as bow-mounted trolling motor power when both batteries are in the back. The bow-mounted motor is an upgrade over my front-mounted transom motor.
Lately I have been kind of a hermit who just works, sleeps, and fishes. I tinker with the boat but don't ever think of taking any time to get some pictures along the way. I took this one picture when I put the new Yamaha F25 on there. You can kinda see some of the boat's interior. It isn't done yet. I am in the process of lining both sides with carpeted walls and installing my new switch cluster in there on the port side. Next to it will also be a ram mount to put a second Lowrance in the back.
So, I should probably take some pictures of each feature since I know that descriptive writing is boring. #-o
My favorite thing about my boat is this new engine. I cannot say enough good things about it. It is absolutely incredible in every way.
An idea I had to make this boat very light was to use foam panels for everything unless it absolutely needs to support weight on its own. I discussed my idea a long time back in this thread here: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=42872
To much skepticism, I gave it a try. And it works awesome. All my decking and floor, since it is basically over the top of the factory aluminum decks and benches, is foam insulation panels that weigh nearly nothing. The carpet that I wrapped them in weighs more than the panels. The only plywood on the boat is the hatch lids. There is minor framing done with 1x2s.
Under one hatch up front is a cheapo styrofoam cooler that I custom built the compartment around. I insulated the compartment with 2" foam and then I can insert the cooler right in there. I cut a small hatch opening into the main top hatch just to throw the fish in without opening the whole top. I can open the large hatch and pull the cooler completely out to clean it. I do not use a livewell, the fish go directly on ice.
I have a front battery and a rear battery, and they are connected in parallel. The front battery moves to the back (offsets the weight of the gas engine for better weight distribution) when I go all-electric. The wiring that connects the batteries together is installed under the floor so that same wiring doubles as bow-mounted trolling motor power when both batteries are in the back. The bow-mounted motor is an upgrade over my front-mounted transom motor.
Lately I have been kind of a hermit who just works, sleeps, and fishes. I tinker with the boat but don't ever think of taking any time to get some pictures along the way. I took this one picture when I put the new Yamaha F25 on there. You can kinda see some of the boat's interior. It isn't done yet. I am in the process of lining both sides with carpeted walls and installing my new switch cluster in there on the port side. Next to it will also be a ram mount to put a second Lowrance in the back.
So, I should probably take some pictures of each feature since I know that descriptive writing is boring. #-o
My favorite thing about my boat is this new engine. I cannot say enough good things about it. It is absolutely incredible in every way.
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-CN-
Well-known member
Progress pictures...sorry, I don't have any. #-o
But here are some pictures of the semi-completed boat. Nearly every surface you see other than the storage lids are 3/4" or 1" foam insulation in lieu of plywood.
But here are some pictures of the semi-completed boat. Nearly every surface you see other than the storage lids are 3/4" or 1" foam insulation in lieu of plywood.
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-CN- said:
I agree with TMO -- you boat looks fantastic. Using sheet foam for the floor/deck membranes is pretty cool. I wonder how much weight you saved with your method.
Love the design and the little step up to the forward casting platform. Looks really clean and well done. Bravo =D>
-CN-
Well-known member
1/2" plywood would have been minimum for my decks and walls. A sheet is approximately 40 lbs. There is the equivalent of about 3 sheets between the decks, floor, and walls. It would have been 120 lbs. of wood.LDUBS said:
In contrast, 1" foam boards are under a pound a sheet, for a savings of ~117 lbs. Not to mention there is no 3-day sealing process involved like plywood and no added weight of the sealer.
The majority of the weight in this boat is framing which was done with 1x2s. The framing to the extend that I used it would not have been needed if I had used plywood, as plywood is structural. There are about three 8ft 1x2s used in this boat at about 2 lbs a piece. That brings my weight savings down by 6 lbs. to about 111 lbs.
Plywood was still used for hatch lids so that is a wash. Same amount of carpeting was still used. I believe the weight of the carpet in this boat outweighs everything else except for maybe the combined weight of the hatch lids.
-CN-
Well-known member
That is a battery compartment. I relocate one of my two size 27 batteries from the rear to that front-ish area whenever I install my new F25 gas outboard to offset some of the weight forward. This also provides space for my fuel tank in the back.jethro said:
That new Yamaha F25 is my favorite thing that I have ever purchased for my boat. It is fast, quiet, sips fuel, starts with one very easy pull, compact, and is light. I can lift it on and off of my boat alone.
onthewater102
Well-known member
The carpet is enough to distribute the load so you can stand on it without dimpling the foam sheets? That's awesome!
onthewater102 said:
I'm surprised at that as well, but I suppose it's possible? I'd be worried about dropping a set of pliers and god forbid I drop a downrigger weight.
