Jay415's Alumacraft MV1648

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Great job Dad! Nothing better than sharing it with your kids.

You're definitely planing out. Sounds like you built a nice balanced boat if you're not getting a ton of bow rise.
 
Ride_Klein said:
Great job Dad! Nothing better than sharing it with your kids.

You're definitely planing out. Sounds like you built a nice balanced boat if you're not getting a ton of bow rise.
Thanks! I won't know until spring how the motor pushes the boat after mods. My test was bare boat and an emergency TM and battery. Hoping for at least 15mph
 
Mounted the Transducer today. Drilling holes in your new boat below the water line? YIKES! I think I did a good enough job! I Hope! Mounted with the supplied screws and sealed with 4200 marine sealant in every hole.

Inside view of transducer mount screws
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hole for running the transducer wire through hull
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Finished! A little messy with the sealant though.
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I wired up the Perko battery switch today. This switch is for the Bow TM only so I can choose either or both batteries. The battery boxes I used have built in 60 amp breakers on each box that feed the battery terminals I used.

I drilled a hole in the transom support at the same level as the rib on the transom. I did this on both sides.
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Then I inserted rubber grommets to protect the wire from the aluminum edges.
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The wires run nicely through the rib, protected and not seen.
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I crimped every connection and then used marine shrink tube.
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I am mounting the Perko switch onto the transom and even though the connectors won't come in contact with the surface aluminum the switch is mounted to, I still felt the need to add a little extra protection from the terminals shorting together. So I added a dab of liquid electrical tape the the terminal ends for insulation.
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Battery 1 all finished
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and here is Battery 2 and how the wires are ran through the transom supports.
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THANK GUYS!
I mounted the switch panel to the front deck this morning. The way I cut the hole was a little risky because I had to be precise or It either wouldn't fit or wouldn't be straight. I took my time and it came out just right. I did this instead of using the supplied template because I didn't like how close the screw holes were to the cutout on the template. Drilling the holes also added strength because I put the Cigarette lighter receptacle in after mounting the plate so the lock nut is on the outside of the plywood instead of going through the plywood.

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Jay415 said:
I moved the trim pin through all 5 holes and I couldn't figure out which was best. How do I figure it out?
Beautiful work Jay, esp. the neat layout. A while back you asked about motor trim (which changes with weight distribution).
Now that you have that wammy jammy Humminbird GPS mounted, you can get an accurate reading on speed as you try different
trim settings. Be sure to check both upwind and down wind for an average if top end is what you are looking for. Hole shot is
another matter as you will notice that change as well. Jerry :)
 
This is great =D> . I got a 1448 flat for christmas and I love the ideas from this build. One question: how did you attach the frame to the boat at the back of the deck? (near the vertical drop). Also, what type of screws did you use to attach 2 X 4s to the existing aluminum platform? Stainless, sheet metal? What size?

Thanks a bunch!!!

Paul
 
fullpage said:
This is great =D> . I got a 1448 flat for christmas and I love the ideas from this build. One question: how did you attach the frame to the boat at the back of the deck? (near the vertical drop). Also, what type of screws did you use to attach 2 X 4s to the existing aluminum platform? Stainless, sheet metal? What size?

Thanks a bunch!!!

Paul
I used both #10x2 1/2" and #8x1 1/4" stainless decking screws for all the decking assembly. At the back of the deck the actual supports are not secured to the boat directly. They are attached to the plywood and the plywood is then secured to the boat. (side of the rib) The top deck overlaps the vertical plywood which gives it a lot of strength. Because the downward pressure is forced onto the plywood and not just the screws in the supports.
Also the center vertical 2x4 is just held in place being attached to the plywood. Then the downward force from the center supports that in turn hold the weight of the seat and the person on it, is transferred to that 2x4 and plywood, and eventually down to the bottom of the boat.
It was the strongest way I came up with, for the lightest weight with wood.
Oh yea and due to the inward slant of the gunnels the weight distribution is also pushed onto the walls of the boat a little too.

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I noticed your control panel has a switch for your fish finder, dont wire It into the switch beause it causes interferance with other thins such as lights, or bilge. I made that mistake, and yet to fix it.
 
Thanks for the tip! I put the label on but I wasn't sure if I was gonna have it switched or not. I guess now, it's not! :lol:

I am in the process of wiring up a 6 bank fuse panel beneath the switches.
 
Jay415 said:
Thanks! I didn't yet but I have Rule 360gph laying around that works fine. So I'm just gonna use that for now. I'm just gonna glue it down with 4200 sealant. Easy to change out in the future. I have to get the heat gun out to soften the hose. I was getting kinks when I tried to route it. The garage is getting a little cold.

I changed out the Rule 360gpm for a Rule 800gpm. And I also changed the hose to a kink free hose. Worked out much better!
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Here is the back of my switch panel and fuse panel

10 amp fuse is cigarette lighter socket
3 amp fuse is for fish finder
5 amp fuse is for 800gpm bilge pump
empty fuse with wire connected is for future nav lights
empty switch I haven't decided what to use it for

This is fed with 8 awg wire with a 30amp breaker at the battery
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Very clean wiring! Everything you have added to the boat has been well planned and professionally executed.

Couple questions:

What types of boards did you use for the front deck framing? (running from front platform back to the vertical plywood piece) I read through looking but only found the one vertical 2x4 described and the other boards look narrower.

What are your plans for the back and middle seats? I assume a standard back deck but was curious if you had anything planned for the middle livewell seat. The livewell is a great thing to have but seem to reduce the seating options, atleast in the way of pedestals.

Looks great!
 
tivoli410 said:
Very clean wiring! Everything you have added to the boat has been well planned and professionally executed.

Couple questions:

What types of boards did you use for the front deck framing? (running from front platform back to the vertical plywood piece) I read through looking but only found the one vertical 2x4 described and the other boards look narrower.

What are your plans for the back and middle seats? I assume a standard back deck but was curious if you had anything planned for the middle livewell seat. The livewell is a great thing to have but seem to reduce the seating options, atleast in the way of pedestals.

Looks great!
Thanks for your comments!

The four horizontal supports are 2x3's. The other 2 supports connected to the vertical plywood are 2x4's.

As for the back deck I am just going to deck it directly onto the ribs and I'm prob going to add a seat mount in the center. I don't want to add a raised casting deck because of when I bring my son out fishing.

Also I am considering making the center seat into a livewell. It just depends on if I will be fishing tournaments or not.
 

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