JB MarineWeld?

[LittleTinny]

Hey guys, anyone ever used this JB MarineWeld for sealing rivets/seams on the bottom of their aluminum Jons? I was reading about its use in a few other places, and the info on their website makes it sound like extremely solid, durable stuff, and is designed specifically for boats. It mixes into a spreadable epoxy, and I was thinking about buying a couple tubes, and sealing all of my seams and rivets thoroughly with this stuff, then painting over it (since it is paintable). Then inside, I'm going to paint, and then truck bed liner over it as my floor material. I think I should be pretty waterproof with that.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[fool4fish1226]

I am not a big fan of the JB weld products (not saying it would not work). I would either have it welded or replace the rivets JMHO. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Captain Ahab]

You are better off just fixing any leak properly. JBWeld is not going to prevent future leaks. It is pretty good stuff but is by no means a "magic" fix for all problems


You got loose rivets fix them properly

 

[LittleTinny]

Sorry, I probably should have clarified too, I don't actually have any leaks at all, or loose rivets. Every rivet on my boat has been thoroughly sealed and siliconed and is leak free. I guess I'm more or less looking for an extra application as extra security before I finally paint it. Maybe it's not necessary, but I would just like that peace of mind.

 

[BigTerp]

I, personally, only fix leaks once they are leaking (does that even make sense??) I've used JB weld (originial) to patch a few holes from boat seat mounts and FF mounts and that stuff is rock solid and really tough to sand. Solid rivets are easy to remove and replace but I'd imagine ones coated with JB weld would be a pain in the butt to remove!! IMO, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[user 10949]

agree with bigterp. my question before you start would be:
How do you fix a leaky rivet a year from now, after it's already been covered in JB weld?

 

[simbelle]

agree with bigterp. my question before you start would be:
How do you fix a leaky rivet a year from now, after it's already been covered in JB weld?

NOW THAT'SSOME FUNNY STUFF! :LOL2:

Seems to me what you want to do is seal the seams and rivets, right? Well for that you have a few options Gluvit, Steelflex or Truckbed liner. Take you pick you will find people who have positive and negative opinions on all of them.

 

[LittleTinny]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback, sounds like this stuff should be used as more of a "repair" than preventative maintenance. I guess since all my rivets were previously sealed, and I'm not experiencing any leaks as of yet, I'll just spray the bottom inside and out, and probably up the sides about 4" or so, with a spray or roll-on truck bed liner in a few good coats worth to add peace of mind. I'll just paint the rest of it, and call it a day.

Here's another question, using the truck bed liner, should I apply that directly to the aluminum, or should I first spray a self-etching primer first?

Thanks for the help guys, still new to all this. Can't wait for opening day to put my little tinny to the test!

 

[Andyg]

I used regular jb weld and then painted over it with enamel paint. Bet it sealed it in. :LOL2:

 

[LittleTinny]

In going to use some of the marine weld to fix two small holes on the top side of my jon, near the oar locks, looks like it once had a handle and the rivets for it were removed. Gonna plug it up with the marine weld, and then paint over it.

 

[simbelle]

Here's another question, using the truck bed liner, should I apply that directly to the aluminum, or should I first spray a self-etching primer first?

I sprayed mine over etching primer, but that's as far as I am with my mod; but all the adds show it being put on right over the paint. I am using Rust-Oleum. The spray definitely takes a few coats to get any thickness and it is much less gritty than other liners,which I like. Not sure that in the end it is any cheaper if you use the spray cans. I do believe you can get a gallon of roll/brush on for about 50 bucks, which is probably half of what others cost.

 

[LittleTinny]

Here's another question, using the truck bed liner, should I apply that directly to the aluminum, or should I first spray a self-etching primer first?

I sprayed mine over etching primer, but that's as far as I am with my mod; but all the adds show it being put on right over the paint. I am using Rust-Oleum. The spray definitely takes a few coats to get any thickness and it is much less gritty than other liners,which I like. Not sure that in the end it is any cheaper if you use the spray cans. I do believe you can get a gallon of roll/brush on for about 50 bucks, which is probably half of what others cost.

Thanks, I think that's what I'll do too, pick up a couple cans of their self-etching primer and coat it once, then Wally World has the gallon of rustoleum liner and I'll roll that on the bottom and up the sides about 4" inside and out. After that dries, I'm going to paint the rest of it in flat OD green. I'm wondering if I could even spray paint right over the liner so it all looks uniform (and so the black wont conduct so much heat inside the floor). Still debating on carpeting the floor to reduce heat.

 

[simbelle]

yes you can spray over the liner, I went over mine with Etching primer because that's all I had

 

[Terry]

A LOT of boat owners have used 3M 5200 (cure in 7 days) or 3M 5200 fast cure (cure in 24 hours). They dob it on the rivet before riveting. If you do a search on 5200 and boat rivets you will get a lot of supportive information.

 

[Wampuscat]

i used it the other day to plug some old depth finder transducer holes. took about 2 min's flat and has worked so far!

 

[Badbagger]

Informative lmao =D> Don't use JB Weld! Fix it RIGHT.

 

[BigTerp]

A LOT of boat owners have used 3M 5200 (cure in 7 days) or 3M 5200 fast cure (cure in 24 hours). They dob it on the rivet before riveting. If you do a search on 5200 and boat rivets you will get a lot of supportive information.

I think this is the key. Use 5200 WITH rivets to help provide a proper seal. 5200 by itself, IMO, is not nearly as good as a properly replaced solid rivet.