Johnson 9.5 firing on one cylinder

[Earlo]

I have a 1968 Johnson 9.5 and one cylinder (the bottom one) just stopped firing last week (thankfully close enough to ramp that I could limp in).
I bought a new coil, condenser and points. Tonight I'm hoping to pull the flywheel and check it out. Is there a way of telling on the magneto plate
which condenser and coil go to which cylinder? I bought a test light too. And a flywheel puller (hammer trick did not work). Please help. This is my
first rodeo inside the outboard, and I'm just mechanically adept enough to really mess things up.

 

[cajuncook1]

Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.


If you don't have a harmonic balance flywheel puller, you can make a flywheel knocker tool. One of our many distinguished member put this tutorial together on how use and make a flywheel knocker to safely remove a flywheel. I have tried and it workings well. I have both the flywheel knocker and harmonic balance flywheel remover.

Anyway here is the Flywheel knocker tool link.

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1309393684


Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.






Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY




How to replace your coils, points and condenser. Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don't lose them. They are small.


Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word [highlight]top[/highlight] machine written on the side facing up.

FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. (Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting)

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6

Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.

If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!!

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)

Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

[highlight]*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***[/highlight]


Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.

Both diagrams, should answer your questions.






Look, here is a picture of ignition plate, that is how yours should look. See, the orientation of the wires and they are tucked away.

After you have repositioned the wires as indicated, please post another set of pictures so we can make sure all is well!!

 

[cajuncook1]

Before you change out coils, please do a visual inspection and test one at a time. The points maybe dirty and just need to be sandpapered and wiped cleaned. Follow the directions and diagrams and you will be set right!!

 

[Earlo]

Thanks Cajun Cook!!! I had seen that info in a post earlier, but could not relocate it. I tried the flywheel knocker, to no avail. Even getting the nut off required some careful heating and a lot of persuasion. I got a cheap puller at NAPA and some grade 8 bolts from H. Depot. I did a spark test, and the bottom cylinder is definitely the one that's dead, so I figured
it's got to be a lost connection, points, condenser or coil for that cylinder. I just did not know how to identify which cylinder was which on the magneto. Your picture just cut my testing time in half.

Thanks again.

 

[cajuncook1]

Here is a homemade flywheel holder made with a 1 inch x 1 inch x 2ft length piece of wood and old strap or leather belt. 2 wood screws securing the belt to the wood. Just use it like a strap wrench. Cheap!! I have been using one for about 4yrs. Works just fine and you can make it with stuff around the house. It helps hold the flywheel when removing or tightening flywheel nut.

Now tighten the flywheel down good, but don't torque until you are sure you are finished under the flywheel. Torque the flywheel nut to 40 to 45 foot pounds. Very important to keep your flywheel from slipping and damaging the crank taper. Also too much can cause damage to the flywheel and also the taper. Most auto parts places like Auto Zone, will lend one out with a refundable deposit.


Good luck

 

[thudpucker]

I'm gonna laugh if you bought all that stuff, and the problem was a Mud Daubers leg caught in the Breaker points.

Sometime when you have little to do, Look up; "a bug in the works". You'll laugh too.

 

[Earlo]

I'm gonna laugh if you bought all that stuff, and the problem was a Mud Daubers leg caught in the Breaker points.

Sometime when you have little to do, Look up; "a bug in the works". You'll laugh too.

Hey TP, if it's something that simple I'll laugh too! I'm still only out about eighty bucks so far, and NAPA said they'd take parts back that were unused. The puller was only 12 bucks,
and I also have two other motors I could experiment on. I think I'm still ahead of where I'd be if I took it to a marine tech, plus I'm learning something new, and getting to converse with charming fellas like yourself.

 

[Earlo]

Here is a homemade flywheel holder made with a 1 inch x 1 inch x 2ft length piece of wood and old strap or leather belt.

Thanks again cajun. I fashioned something similar out of a tie down strap and a big pair of vice grips that did the trick.

 

[cajuncook1]

Earlo, what other motors you got to play with??? I enjoying collecting some and mechanically restoring vintage and antique outboards. Would like to later on learn how to cosmetically restore them as well.