My build - A Series of Unfortunate Events

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I doubt the transom braces as referred to are in fact braces. Looks more like a transom "riser" to me to raise the OB up some. Maybe he had too big/heavy of a motor on it and was trying to stop some flexing with the concept but don't see how it would have helped much.
 
Can't figure out what I want to do with the middle and front. The rear bench I think I will put a flush mount seat on the right, and gut the rest of the bench for storage. Probably close off the gap between transom and rear bench for fuel tank.

Here's the thing. Most guys here build casting decks. I don't want that I don't think. A lot of my fishing is in the river and I use bream poles with popping bugs for redbreast. It requires you get low under overhanging branches so a casting deck will be way to high off the water.

I may extend the front a little to hide the battery and for extra storage.

That leaves the front seat and live well. I keep going back and forth on wanting a live well and not. Wondering if I should rebuild the front bench and install a flush mount seat in the middle with storage on either side.
 
Guys I don't know what to do with the rear riser. As you can see it makes the motor line up perfect with the bottom of the hull according to posts I've seen here. It's just a 9.9 so it's not over large as suggested above.

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nice boat! my last tinny was a 1436 alumacraft. loved it. nice thick hulls on them. as far as securing the angle to the ribs i would just use 3/16 pop rivets. i'm by no means an expert so take my advice as you will but anytime i'm securing anything that is above the water line or not going through the hull at all i just use pop rivets. easier IMO. I would say from those last two pictures that the "transom brace" is definitely more of a jack plate than a brace. from my experience with my acraft the transoms in them are tough as nails. mine was a 93 i think and had the original transom in it. the boat had NOT been well taken care of and that transom was still rock solid. i'm sure you've already picked this up from reading other posts but if you do go with screws to attach anything to the boat go with stainless and generous helping of 5200. i've had a couple of pretty nasty experiences with boats that had regular zinc/steel hardware used as fasteners on the hull. good luck and keep us updated.
 
The 15 hp 4s and the 20 hp 4s Yamaha are exactly the same motor and weight the same. I looked at the 15 and got the 20 for that reason plus the extra 5 hp at no weight gain. If the wood in the transom is not rotted then there should be no need for all that bracing unless he was running along tail mud motor or something like that. If the wood is rotten replace it and it should hold a 20 hp 4s fine.
 
What about the line from the hull to the (terminology needed) part on the foot of the motor? From reading here in this forum those should be in line like they are currently in my setup. If I remove this homemade jack plate I'll only lower the motor 2 inches.

And no the transom isn't rotten. It's perfect.
 
Yes it looks like it is at the right height, can you bolt the motor onto the transom?

on second look looks like the bolt holes are too high also, can that riser be bolted on better or can a more solid one be made. seems like I saw one on here not long ago someone made similar to that and it looked pretty good.
 
Looks like the motor is installed at the right height using the PO's riser...you can probably get rid of those gangling braces by simply running thru bolts through the riser material and the top of the transom.

I'll dig around here, somewhere recently I saw a post of someone bucking solids with an air hammer and a sledge head with a bevel drilled into it - he'd be the one to ask what pressure he was running etc. I was looking to do a restoration on my grandfather's boat where I'd be doing the same, so I needed to follow up on this question for myself too.

I buy my rivets through rivetsonline.com - i believe they have solid rivets as well.
 
The biggest issue are those braces running into the rear behind the back bench. They take up a lot of room. I may try fastening the riser better after removing the braces.

Thanks for all the replies. Getting a new trolling motor, Minn Kota Edge 45 lb, 36" shaft today. Fishing this weekend!

Next on the list is to remove that live well. I don't use it, I just throw fish in the cooler on ice. I'll just need to find someone that can weld the hole he put there for water.
 
New Minn Kota Edge!

 

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Nice! I see she floats! I'm a little jealous.... it has rained here for the last 7 or 8 straight days. The only good thing is I don't feel bad about working on my build rather than fishing in it.
 
If you're still working on it Bass Pro Shops sell a jackplate for small boats and motors that should work very well and look good. Interesting build.
Rodney
 
Oldfart9999 said:
If you're still working on it Bass Pro Shops sell a jackplate for small boats and motors that should work very well and look good. Interesting build.
Rodney
Thanks for the update! Yeah I'm still working on it. Deer season put it on hiatus. [emoji4]
 

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