New here, VHull boat restoration

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Hello to all! I am a new (female) boat owner and I am currently restoring my aluminum V hull. I am in the long agonizing stage of stripping off all the old paint with an angle grinder and cup brush, taking her all the way down to bare metal. Same for the trailer.

I've found a ton of very useful information here but some things still have to be spelled out for me because I've never taken on a project such as this. So...WHEN I ask what may seem like a very dumb question, please don't hold it against me! I'm spending a lot of money (for me) and I want to do this right the first time!

I purchased the boat and trailer for $375 and I am picking up my new to me 1973 20 hp Johnson electric start motor tomorrow (no pic of that yet). I bought it for $450. Thought that was a really good price considering it's an electric start and cranked right up after sitting all winter. Came with gas tank, original manual and parts list. So excited!!

I've read several of the projects on here and I really hope I can do as good as the men folk....we will see! :wink:

So here it is my first question:
I've worn out one "crimped" cup brush already. I read on a previous project that he knocked it out in 2 1/2 hours with a brush! HOW?? I've got a few hours in already and making very slow progress. Is it better (faster) to use a crimped or knotted cup brush on tin?

Thanks for reading and for any replies/comments/tips!
 

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Welcome. I wouldn't worry about how long it is taking to strip the paint with the grinder, it will take what it takes. Knotted brush is more durable than the crimped and will probably remove material faster. Looks like you are doing a pretty good job so far. Keep posting pictures.
 
Knotted cup will remove faster, but I think a crimped cup does a better job. You will wear a few out. If you have a harbor freight near by, get them there. They are $5 each.
 
There is a HF here, it's my favorite store! :lol: Wish they had more for boats though. I first used the citrus paint stripper to remove most of the green top coat but what ever the next 4 layers are they are really tough to get off, and progress has become much slower.

It's supposed to rain for the next 4 days. Without a shop, my project must wait I guess. On the bright side, there is so much to buy for it. A woman must shop!

Next question: I'm going to put bed liner down where the decking will not be. At HF they have it in black for $44 a gallon. I want gray. Has anyone ever mixed white in with it and had good results? I've shopped around online and found gray for $130 a gallon. Just can see paying that much.
 
I cant say I've ever tried it that way, but if you get white bedliner you should be able to get a tube or can of toner from a local auto body supply and tint it to your liking
 
Looks like you are doing a really good job, keep up the good work and Welcome to Tin Boats!
 
Good luck and do not get frustrated.
Removing the paint sucks.
I got most of mine off with stripper first.
 
Thank you for your replies and comments. Still waiting on the weather to clear up to resume the project. In the mean time, I was looking at the boat and there is a crack on the bottom. Shown in pic below. Should I use JB weld to take care of this?
 

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The best way to repair a crack is always welding it ,mig,tig or oxy fuel welding all work well, if that's not an option i would use 3-m 5200 over jb weld, i have seen jb weld flake off of aluminum. what ever you do decide to do remember the prep work is most important on aluminum because of the fast forming oxide on the surface.
 
Thank you fabricatorbob, the man I purchased it from assured me that it didn't leak (I have not tested it yet) but I don't want to take any chances and prefer to repair it before I prime and paint.
 
Is that a Richline boat? Sure looks like one. The rib shouldnt leak into the boat. Are ya from IL? Might be someone on here close to you that might weld it cheap. I used paint stripper on mine then wire brushed the last layer off.

Steve
 
The man I bought her from said its an Alumicraft, but
I'm really not sure since there isn't a title.
All I know is that there is a lot of paint layers and a ton
Of rivits! No, I'm not in IL, I'm a southern girl! Just moved
To this area a few months ago and don't know anyone
That welds aluminum. Tried finding a paint and body shop to
Sandblast her for me, to no avail. Oh well, hard work never killed
Anyone, and I'm no stranger to it. I think i will use stripper one more time
On her before using the grinder again. Hopefully by the end of the day
Tomorrow the bottom will all be bare metal and the crack sealed. Thanks for the info!!
 
Went to Lowes and HD today and can not find Marine Tex or Gluvit. I'm guessing these are special order items? Got to spend a little while with the grinder this afternoon, but before much progress was made the grinder burned up. so off to HF I went :lol:
I'll post more pics when it looks like I've actually done something. Maybe tomorrow??
 
Marine-tex makes the epoxy paste and the gluvit. West Marine carries them, there are also a lot of places online that has them.

Check out the website: https://www.marinetex.com
 
Well, due to the cold weather (we had snow flurries yesterday), work, and tools breaking, I have not gotten too much more accomplished. But with a little bit here, and a little bit there, I am making some progress.
 

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Have made more progress in the past few days. Finished stripping the old paint off, sealed the crack, and got her primed! Finally!! Today she's going to get some color! Bought wood for the new transom and will be working on that while the first coat dries.
 

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Looking good. Have you leak tested it yet, if not I would before you get much further, as you may need to reset some rivets.
 

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