New To Me: 1985 PolarKraft CGS1451

[kflavin]

Just got an 85 PolarKraft.
Its had a hard life...





Presently it has a 1998 Honda BF30A on it that is 4" too long, even with the jack plate.
The engine has a broken skeg.


The transom wood is probably okish but the transom brackets are broken and the top of the transom is split as well.



The front pull bracket is coming loose.





That's primarily because the wood in the nose is rotted pretty good.



But the cool thing about this boat is that it is a modified vee, has a wide beam and its somehow rated for 5 people and 45 Hp.
And thats odd because that rating is 50% larger than all other 1451s in the PolarKraft line up.

Any one else here have a CGS1451 with a coast guard rating of 45 hp?
Or any CGS1451s at all?

It think I'm going to repair and repower this little boat since it is such an unusual combo or rated power and draft.

Thoughs? Comments?

Kevin

 

[Stand Up]

Nice boat indeed. It will take a bit of work to make it look great but I wouldn't get too carried away if you're just going fishing with it. Fix the rotten wood and decayed aluminum and have fun. I know nothing about boat motors so you're on your own with my advice.
A new paint job would really make this unit look great. Have fun on your adventure.

 

[LDUBS]

Skeg looks like it broke off pretty close. I hate to add to potential problems, but Is the prop shaft bent? A question for those that know would be if a new skeg can be welded on without disassembling the lower unit.

I guess a hard life can also give it character. I agree with @Stand Up about fixing it up to make it functional. It is a pretty nice wide open design.

 

[kflavin]

Skeg looks like it broke off pretty close. I hate to add to potential problems, but Is the prop shaft bent? A question for those that know would be if a new skeg can be welded on without disassembling the lower unit.

I guess a hard life can also give it character. I agree with @Stand Up about fixing it up to make it functional. It is a pretty nice wide open design.

The skeg is a big issue for sure.
I haven't measured runout, but the shaft 'looks' straight, and the prop seems to spin smoothly.
There is a good chance someone broke it off while towing.
The engine will not tilt and lock up for towing OR down for reverse.
Its a mess. Repairable, but a mess.
I'm thinking the Honda outboard will find a better home in the long run since it STILL needs to come up at least another 4" lol.

 

[kflavin]

Skeg looks like it broke off pretty close. I hate to add to potential problems, but Is the prop shaft bent? A question for those that know would be if a new skeg can be welded on without disassembling the lower unit.

I guess a hard life can also give it character. I agree with @Stand Up about fixing it up to make it functional. It is a pretty nice wide open design.

And yeah, I like the open middle and the wide beam for such a small boat for sure.

 

[kflavin]

I also checked the foam, and it all feels good except for the front, so the front bench will likely come out to address the foam, the eyelet, and the plywood.

 

[kflavin]

 

[butlerheath]

That boat has character for sure. Sounds and looks like the Honda isn't well suited for that boat. What do you plan on repowering with.

 

[kflavin]

Ideally, probably a short shaft 40hp tiller. Maybe 2 stroke.

 

[kflavin]

Still seems a little steep for a 14' jon...

 

[kflavin]

Im considering fixing the Honda, and raising the transom.
The engine runs great, and its only $200 to get a new skeg welded on and blended / painted.
The BF30A is only 157lbs and it is a whisper quiet 4stroke.
The existing 15" transom is broken, and raising the motor height by removing the dip in the middle of the new transom will add freeboard.
I'll also be able to remove the mini jacker plate.

Thoughts?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Im considering fixing the Honda, and raising the transom.
The engine runs great, and its only $200 to get a new skeg welded on and blended / painted.
The BF30A is only 157lbs and it is a whisper quiet 4stroke.
The existing 15" transom is broken, and raising the motor height by removing the dip in the middle of the new transom will add freeboard.
I'll also be able to remove the mini jacker plate.

Thoughts?

I'd keep the Mini Jacker for the set back.

 

[flatheadsteve]

I love the layout. Boat doesn't look like it will take too much work to spruce up. I'd love to find one just like that to put a jet on

 

[kflavin]

I love the layout. Boat doesn't look like it will take too much work to spruce up. I'd love to find one just like that to put a jet on

Yeah, I hear ya,,, short and wide, I'm betting on a shallow draft for sure.

 

[kflavin]

I'd keep the Mini Jacker for the set back.

So, Im new to this, so this is an honest question...

Why do I want setback?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

So, Im new to this, so this is an honest question...

Why do I want setback?

It lets you run the motor higher.

 

[kflavin]

It lets you run the motor higher.

Well, I intend to rebuild and raise the transom, to raise the prop to a depth closer to the depth of the hull bottom. (2-3").
Are you saying that I need the jackplate offset so that the prop performs better because its spaced away from the turbulence at the back of the hull?

 

[LDUBS]

Well, I intend to rebuild and raise the transom, to raise the prop to a depth closer to the depth of the hull bottom. (2-3").
Are you saying that I need the jackplate offset so that the prop performs better because its spaced away from the turbulence at the back of the hull?

The jackplate will allow you to mount the outboard higher than normal, which is kind of opposite your current issue. By doing that you have less motor in the water, shallower draft, and potential performance gains. I'm sure there is a rule of thumb about motor height vs jackplate set back. I just don't know what it is.

For transom mounted motors, the target is for the anti-cavitation plate to be even with the bottom of the hull. The illustration below shows that. To achieve that you may or may not have to do more than close up the transom cut-out. In other words you might have to raise the transom above just removing the cut-out (does that make sense). If so, it is not really a problem. Just build it to get the motor to the height you need.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Lets say you build up the transom to the perfect height that puts the AV plate even with the bottom of the hull.
If you add 4 inches of set back you can raise the motor about 1 inch.

 

[kflavin]

The jackplate will allow you to mount the outboard higher than normal, which is kind of opposite your current issue. By doing that you have less motor in the water, shallower draft, and potential performance gains. I'm sure there is a rule of thumb about motor height vs jackplate set back. I just don't know what it is.

For transom mounted motors, the target is for the anti-cavitation plate to be even with the bottom of the hull. The illustration below shows that. To achieve that you may or may not have to do more than close up the transom cut-out. In other words you might have to raise the transom above just removing the cut-out (does that make sense). If so, it is not really a problem. Just build it to get the motor to the height you need.




View attachment 119107

So, yes that height will be the goal of the transom rebuild.
If I can get the height I need, I'll leave the jack plate off, and have the tiller arm in a better location.

Also in the mix is transom angle.
Right now it is 15deg.

15 deg requires that I use the last locked down trim hole on the engine bracket.
If I trim up any more (manual) I'd have to use the unlocked trim notches in the motor bracket, and wouldn't be able to reverse the engine without it popping up.

So Im thinking about 10 deg mount wedges to leave a hole or two available for locked down trimmed up positions.