Painting my 2006 Tracker Proguide 16 WT

[Tin Man]

Decided that the scratches all over my hull sides and bottom were just bothering me too much! Most details bother me when it comes to my boats and I like things to be ship shape, both mechanically and aesthetically.

Sanded hull, sides, and transom with 220 grit. Removing factory decals proved to be troublesome and time consuming. Adhesive left behind after decals were removed was as stubborn to remove as I have ever seen.

Found a product called Rapid Remover. Spray it on wait about 15-20 seconds and it removes like butter! I used plastic razor blade it was fantastic and scrapping off adhesive. Highly recommend them both for removing stubborn adhesive.

I will be using one part Pettit Polyurethane paint. Thinner and performance enhancer were both recommended by Pettit. See below pics of sanded boat and paint being used.

NOTE: Repair seen in port bow has been primered with an oil-based spray primer. I also removed rub rail insert so I can paint lower half of alum extrusion.

Now I will mask 1-2 days before painting and will be rolling with a Purdy 1/4" nap roller (recommended by Pettit). If paint allows, and I can follow tipping with a brush, I will. This is a one person job so tipping may not be possible, especially since temps are near 100F by mid day.

I know rolling will not leave a spayed-like finish, but it will sure be better than all of the scratches that were on boat previously!

 

[Duke62]

Can't wait to see the finished product. Good luck!

 

[jethro]

I am interested as well as I will someday want to paint my Sylvan and it's too big to tip.

 

[ppine]

I bought a used Jetcraft that had all the right stuff but was used hard. It had dings from downrigger weights, fake bullet holes, and some scrapes from hitting docks.

I mostly focused on the top strake and repaired all the dings and painted it with rattle cans of enamel. It changed the whole look of the boat. I don't get the popularity of wraps, and spending big money at some boat yard for painting boats and painting motors. If it is a fishing boat it is meant to be used. I like the 20 foot test. If it looks good from 20 feet, then it looks good enough.

 

[Tin Man]

My plan is to get one coat on on Sat and one on Sunday. Two coats should do it.....but Monday is a holiday (off work), so if a third is needed, I'll do it Monday....it is Labor Day!!!

Will post pics when completed

 

[my demeyes]

Looking forward to seeing it finished. I have one I'm needing to paint as well.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[jellyghost]

I am looking forward to seeing the finished product or seeing some process pics. If you learn any painting tips, please post them!

 

[fyr4efect]

Decided that the scratches all over my hull sides and bottom were just bothering me too much! Most details bother me when it comes to my boats and I like things to be ship shape, both mechanically and aesthetically.

Sanded hull, sides, and transom with 220 grit. Removing factory decals proved to be troublesome and time consuming. Adhesive left behind after decals were removed was as stubborn to remove as I have ever seen.

Found a product called Rapid Remover. Spray it on wait about 15-20 seconds and it removes like butter! I used plastic razor blade it was fantastic and scrapping off adhesive. Highly recommend them both for removing stubborn adhesive.

I will be using one part Pettit Polyurethane paint. Thinner and performance enhancer were both recommended by Pettit. See below pics of sanded boat and paint being used.

NOTE: Repair seen in port bow has been primered with an oil-based spray primer. I also removed rub rail insert so I can paint lower half of alum extrusion.

Now I will mask 1-2 days before painting and will be rolling with a Purdy 1/4" nap roller (recommended by Pettit). If paint allows, and I can follow tipping with a brush, I will. This is a one person job so tipping may not be possible, especially since temps are near 100F by mid day.



I know rolling will not leave a spayed-like finish, but it will sure be better than all of the scratches that were on boat previously!

I used Epifanes mono-urethane with a 6" fine foam roller. Used their Marine primer[ sticks to just about anything] One coat primer, three coats paint, scuff between coats. Scuff between coats makes a difference in how the paint sticks/covers. This photo not too great. I'll try to post a better one. Very happy with the result.

 

[Tin Man]

My bad.....totally forgot to post pics after painting. I know it's been a few years, but I said I would post pics after completing of paint job.

I ended selling the boat shortly after completing the paint job and installing a new rub rail. Below is paint completed and new rub rail installed. Click on images. First pic is to show the brush/tipping strokes. You have to look closely to see any brush/tipping strokes, but they are there.
Came out pretty decent.