Rhino linning

[STEELRZAHOLIC]

Has anyone seen or have rhino linned the inside of their boat to seal all rivets and leaks. I dont know if this will add to much weight to the boat or will it help the bouancy. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it before I start this project and spend the money rhino linning the boat if its not going to work. Thanks again

 

[lukelona]

not positive but heard itwill create a lot of drag.
i dont see how but thats what i hear.
i have the same problem on my 12 ft v hull
leaks pretty good. feet are wet everytime!
i siliconed every rivet and it still leaks maybe worse!

i need a answer also so let me know if you figure it out first. :x

 

[Plane Driver]

Hey guys -

If you're partial to Rhino Liner I understand. As a suggestion, try looking into Herculiner. I just coated my boat boxes with it and have startedmcoating the interior of the boat from the body line down.

It works well - this is the third boat I've used it on. When you have small leaks and you coat the interior it will keep the water out and your feet dry. As for larger holes I'm not too sure.

I don't think I'd try it on the outside of the boat - I'd imagine it would be a lot of drag.

For the outside of the boat I'd suggest looking into Steelflex epoxy. Very popular in the south for airboats. It's a two part mix-and-apply epoxy that is great for sealing leaks and also protecting your boat from sand and scratches, small rocks. I've heard nothing but good from both but I'd highly recommend the Herculiner. I'm posting pictures on my thread now.

Good luck

 

[Plane Driver]

Also - you can pick up a Herculiner Kit at auto stores for $90.00. It comes with two rollers, brush, scuff pad, and one gallon which is plenty for three coats on the interior of a 12' Jon

 

[TNtroller]

was on a boat mfr site last night or earlier this week, and they offer a "gatorflex" lining, I think was the name they called it instead of carpet. Sounds pretty good, said it would quieten the boat down (no explaination provided on how or what type of sounds) but would assume it's similar to a rubber coating so if you dropped something, it would soften the sounds transmitted to the water. Hose it down to clean when dirty. If the liner has a rough texture, then appling it on the outside of the boat will create drag, maybe using it to seal up a problem area might be acceptable, but wouldn't do it on the entire outer skin.

 

[get.the.net]

I sprayed the inside of my boat. It is one of the best mods I have made. I would recommend this to anyone. The best thing about it is how it deadens the sound.

 

[UtahBassKicker]

I didn't have very good results from my Herculiner so I would not recommend using it. It looks great, feel free to check it out on my mod, but it started peeling shortly after I applied even though I prepped exactly how the instructions said. Spent several hours sanding and scuffing only to have the Herculiner separate from the surface. Don't get me wrong, It still looks good and definitely deadens sounds, but since it's separated from the surface in some spots, there's no way it would help stop leaks. If you got something professionally sprayed in, I think it would help with leaks.

 

[Smokey496]

Not sure for the interior. Exterior a quick fix, but it won't last. Do it right and don't worry about it for a long time.

 

[Specknrebel]

Hey i used a spray on bedliner from lowes , i applied just 2 coats of it and it seems to work great. i fish in an area with alot of hidden cypress knees and stumps and this stuff is great. you have to ask yourself a question....do i want to have minimal drag from applying this to the bottom of my boat or have wet feet from something you ran over. i asked myself that question and glad too. the stuff is durable and has great shock resistance. think it over.

 

[PSG-1]

Too bad 3M doesn't make 5200 in a spray can. Could you imagine how tough the hull would be if you could apply a 1/8" thick coating?! Man, you could just about jump stumps with it, and it probably wouldn't even make a dent.

For those of you who have never used 5200, let me warn you, only use it on something you intend to be permanent!! Because you will often destroy the part if you try to disassemble it (learned this the hard way by using it to install a jet pump)

Anyhow, when I dealt with the issues of corrosion on my boat, everything was welded water tight, before I ever applied any truck bed liner to my hull. I used the 2-part stuff from Rust-Oleum.

So, the liner isn't on my hull to stop any leakage, it's mainly on there to protect the integrity of the hull. I thought about having it professionally rhino-lined, but then I talked with someone who had that done to their boat, he said it peeled off. So, I decided I wasn't going to waste the money to have it done, I'll stick with the spray cans.

About every six months or so, I crawl under the boat, and I wire brush any bare metal with a STAINLESS wire brush (it is very important that you use a ss brush to clean aluminum, do not use regular steel!) then I spray those areas with zinc chromate primer (also very important for proper coating adhesion, particularly on aluminum) then I hit it with truck bed liner, and follow up with a thin coat of anti-fouling paint (always use copper thiocyanate paint on aluminum boats, use cuprous oxide only on fiberglass)

And while I'm at it, I check my zinc anodes, and if they're not yet worn down from electrolysis, I will take a grinder with a stainless wire wheel, and run across them to remove oxide to expose fresh zinc for the electrolysis to attack. On my 16 foot jet boat, I use 2 zincs that are 4 inches by 6 inches, bolted to either side of the jet unit tunnel at the stern..... as well as a small Evinrude/Johnson OBM zinc (oval shaped, about 2 inches long by an inch wide) which I attach directly to the bottom of my steering nozzle (I have found that the steering nozzle is susceptible to electrolysis without a zinc, despite zincs being on the boat)

So, any of you who operate a boat in brackish or salt water, if you follow my methods above, you can protect your hull. But once electrolysis starts eating holes through the boat, these types of leaks are difficult to stop, except by welding them, and this is often a PITA, as corroded aluminum does not weld very well at all.

 

[optaylor823]

I can not speak for Rhino, but I had the inside of my boat done with Line-X. I have to say if the money is there I will have it done to all my boats form here on out. They guy that did the Line-X said the added about 60lbs to the boat. The only time I notice it being hot is when I first uncover it in the afternoons. Once I drive to the lake it does not seem to be hot. It is hard work to get the boat prepped, but to me worth it in the long run. Mine came with a lifetime warranty, so no worries it it starts to peel or fad. My boat is 16' and 66" wide on the bottom. The guy said I had about 650 sq/ft he had to spray. I can not say if it will seal any leaks, because I just had mine done on the top deck. Here is a picture of how mine turned out.

 

[bwell]

I don't know much about Rhino lining except to get the high pressure spray and not the low. The low pressure spray is garbage and feels like rubber, looks like cottage cheese, and will lose its color after time.

My mom owns a truck accessory business that does spray in bedliners, and she is was constantly having people that had Rhino lining in their bed tearing it out and having her put her high pressure stray in. I don't know if they have dropped their low pressure stray all together or not but I would suggest going with LineX or any other company that does high pressure spray.

As for high pressure spray, its amazing stuff and will last forever.

 

[Mojo^]

I recommend that you have a talk with your local Line-X dealer. In my area, they didn't want to do it on my boat at all and the only way they would agree to it is if I allowed them to sand blast it (time consuming and expensive) and signed a wavier on the warranty. They had one or two failures from people who assured them that they had properly prepped the boat and it cost them a lot of money to fix the problem so they are now very shy about applying their product for uses other than it's intended purpose, which of course is a truck bed liner.

 

[Jdholmes]

Yeah...16 feet x 5.5 feet does not equal over 600 sq. feet...it is 88 sq. feet...I hope he didn't charge you that way. That also seems like a lot of extra weight...how thick is it? I know the spray on Bedliner I just put in did not even way close to that....I may have added a few extra pounds doing the floor, tops...I used rustoleum spray liner and it seems pretty tough from what I can tell...but time will tell. I have heard decent things about it.

 

[optaylor823]

Actually I did not use the guy that quoted me the 650 sq/ft, because of his price. I am not sure how thick it is but you can see how thick it is in this picture. I figured that carpet adds some weight and 60 lbs spread over the area of the boat was not to bad. I did not see any performance change which I was happy with since I am running a jet in shallow water.

 

[Jdholmes]

Looks nice. Glad you didn't get ripped by that guy. I love when 'professionals' just pull figures out their butts to make their job sound more difficult. This is exactly why I did all my home renovations myself.

I would still be skeptical about the weight. I hear a lot of people talk about the possibility of this stuff adding weight but if you are just doing a floor or top surface like you had done it really shouldn't be adding any significant weight at all. Which you have seen in the fact that it hasn't had an ill effect on performance... But then again maybe I am missing something with it.