Stick steer and control box mount

[BigTerp]

Need some help/ideas on how to mount my stick steering setup and control box. I have a message into Fish On Fabrications to see if they have something in mind, or if it's something they've done in the past. But other than that I don't really have any ideas on how to mount the two.

Here is what I'm working with

The captains seat will be installed on an aluminum floor between the two ribs where there used to be a bench seat. I'm thinking some sort of aluminum mount, but with the curve of the gunwale and me having no access to a break or the ability to work metal (other than simply cutting), I'm not sure what to do. I'll be getting an ezy glide stick steering system and controls for a 1994 50/35 Johnson Jet FWIW. Thanks!!

 

[dejamat]

You could use part of the seat you removed to fab the mounts for the steering and motor controls. (just a thought)

 

[BigTerp]

dejamat » 1 minute ago[/url]"]You could use part of the seat you removed to fab the mounts for the steering and motor controls. (just a thought)

Great idea, thanks!! The seat would already have the bend in the aluminum that I need. I'll see if I can make that work. Been looking at that bench laying around that I have to keep moving to mow, get my camper out, etc. Can't believe using it to mount my steering and controls never crossed my mind.

 

[dejamat]

I have pretty much the same boat (16/44 MonArk w/side console) Thought about doing stick steering at one time but was told it would restrict the horsepower to 35Max in Massachusetts. I decided to leave the console and deck over the ctr seat to the bow. Worked out good for now. I was also toying with the idea of a ctr console? Good luck. Dave

 

[Ranchero50]

Yep, reuse the center seat. Cut the top off at the livewell, then mark it @ 6-8" in from the hull joint and cut the sides out there. Bend the extra top down to make the face. If you leave a little of the sides under the extended top you can just pop rivet them to the original sides. Add a chunk of plywood for a backer and it should be plenty strong. Mount them up high by the gunnel and you'll have room to work under them to mount your switches, etc. If you need help let me know.

You can determine the 6-8" by sitting in your seat making motor noises to decide how wide you want it. Are you going to run the big pedestal or do a battery box under the front seat? You could also do a pin base and then remove the seat once you are fishing to have more travel room between the controls.

 

[BigTerp]

Thanks Jaime. I would be worried about sitting in my boat making motor noises, but my neighbors already think I'm crazy so it shouldn't be a problem.

How easy can I expect to be able to bend the aluminum? I'm thinking your saying I would cut the seat so that I'm using the original rivet holes in the seat to mount it to the gunwale? This would also make the mount match up with the curve of my gunwale? May end up drilling through a few of your excellent welds. I'm using the big pedestal as my captains seat. It will be permanently mounted to my floor. I was going to go with a pin mounted seat, but they are only rated for 5 mph.

 

[Ranchero50]

Sandwich you seat metal between 2 pieces of wood and clamp it in a vise. You want the edge of both pieces where the bend will be break

Then have someone push down on the flap while you tap on a chunk of sideways 2x4 with a big hammer where you want the break to be. If the someones a female you'll probable want her to push with a rag so she doesn't get stung by the metal when you hit the board.

You'll needs you steering and controls as well as the seat mounted so you know where the pods will fit best to feel best. Higher is better for the most part and it gives you more room to work under the pod.

Motor noises are perfectly acceptable, as are practice casting out of your boat while it's in the driveway. Nude sunbathing on the other hand...

 

[BigTerp]

Thanks!!