Which kind if anchor for 14ft?

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answer3

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I bought a 15lbs anchor at walmart hoping it would be enough for my 14ft v hull but the boat started to drift in the wind, drifting quite fast... The wind was probably 20-25 mph. The only thing that stopped me from drifting was when the anchor got stuck in a submerged tree, and I thought for a moment I would have to cut the rope to free the boat.
Which kind of anchor do you guys use? How heavy?
I am planning to go fishing in river mouths when the current is quite strong so this is an important feature but I don't really know what to buy...
 
I filled a gallon bleach bottle with concrete and pushed some chain in it before it dried.

Concrete is 20lbs a gallon.
 
There are several styles of anchors. What is the river bottom like? What style anchor did you get? Do you have a length of chain at the anchor?
 
I got one very similar to that anchor, just not coated with vinyl, 15 lbs. I think it is called a river anchor

https://www.walmart.com/ip/SeaChoice-41520-River-Anchor-Black-Vinyl-20-lbs/32739408

I did not put a chain on it because it was the same price as the anchor and I did not think I would need extra weight (I was probably wrong). Ideally I would like to have an anchor I can use everywhere I go, which is mainly ponds/lakes but also large river mouths or coastal bays
 
so I was thinking of maybe getting a folding grapping anchor like this one
https://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Folding-Grappling-Anchors/product/39740/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

or another one like this (called fluke anchor?)
https://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Fluke-Anchors/product/45258/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

but I am afraid it will stay stuck on the bottom in trees or rocks too often
 
Sounds like you need what is called a WRECK anchor - that uses the arms to grab things - more than you need a weighted or fluted anchor.

BTW, the weight of the chain in bigger boats is typically at least that of the hull length and the purpose there is to set and keep the anchor flukes\spade at the correct 'digging angle'. The chain also adds a catenary effect - look it up.

I'd have someone weld one up w/ lightest rebar arms to grab stuff, but not so stiff that you can't "power off using the motor" to bend an arm so it releases from a snag.

There is also the neat trick of securing a fluke/danforth-type anchor by the crown (that little flat part opposite the chain/rode connection on the shank), then using tie-wraps to bring the chain down the shank like it was affixed to the end of the shank. This allows it to set for most bottom conditions, but if/when snags, you again "power off" using the motor and the tie-wraps break and 'hopefully' your anchor become unsnagged.

If I were at my desk, I could post pics or links to pictures of these examples, but someone else will have to or you will need to search for them on-line yourself ...
 
You may want to consider more than one type of anchor for different situations. Dansforth anchor will work well in bays and river mouths with sandy or silty bottom where you have current and they rely on grabbing design more so than weight. They are a pain in weedy or snaggy lakes. There you would be better off with a mushroom type anchor or a home made jug full of concrete like was suggested. Whatever you use the chain and enough rope is important. Here is a Danforth size chart. https://www.danforthanchor.com/size-chart.html
 
I use a small danforth anchor with a couple feet of chain, I also carry an extra 100' of rope just in case. if you have enough scope any quality anchor should hold.
 
Danforth anchors are the way to go. I use one with no chain but only 50 foot rope. The reason is my boat never sees water deeper than 15-20 feet.
 
My 16 ft boat will break free using a Danforth if the wind is more the 15mph. I use 2 but really need bigger anchors.

No way is a gallon of cement going to do anything but drag
 
did you drop the anchor straight off the side of the boat? Those river anchors will drag if so - toss it out a ways and let I dig into the bottom. I use a 15lb river anchor and a 10lb mushroom depending on the conditions on the Mississippi
 
answer3 said:
Something like this DaleH?
Exactly! I've seen people rig that 'trip' or break-away feature on danforth and/or spade (Bruce) anchors too.

I think the OP really needs to determine the bottom structure/material where they boat first, as who knows, if they boat both rocky and sand/silty areas, they might need one of each.
 
Also make sure you're putting enough anchor line out I believe the calculation is 3 to 4 times the depth of water in normal conditions basically calm water in currents on thrived it's going to take more. It helps take some the shock almost like a bungee cord also add a few feet of chain as already said it will help put the anchor at the proper position to grab ahold of bottom I have a 1448 with a 40/28 jet and I only use a 15 lbs river anchor with 5' of chain never have any problems on the rivers I fish mostly pretty rocky bottoms
 
Haha, a 7:1 scope from the bottom to the height of the hull is the minimum recommended by Chapman's bible on boating. But many times I'll set the anchor w/ longer scope then sit there on a 4:1 'lunch' hook.
 
As others have said, make sure you are putting out enough rope to hold you. You could have a 50 pound anchor, but if you don't put out enough rope, even that will drag. A 4 foot length of chain attached to anchor helps as well.
 
ok so basically I did everything wrong... no chain, I used the depth plus ~10% max of rope length and set the anchor vertically... based on what you guys told me no wonder I was drifting... :( I will try again this weekend with your suggestions to see if I can do better. Thanks for all these advices!!
 
Thanks, everyone, for all your input on this. I just yesterday bought a grappling anchor, (5 lb) for my 12' tin can. Just what size of chain should be on there at 4-5' long? Thanks again.
 

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