YJs 1236 Semi V Mod

[smackdaddy53]

You could make a set of very sturdy saw horses for much cheaper than the plastic ones. 2x4's, a saw and wood screws are about all you need to build them. Once you build them screw a couple of 2x4's on each of them to support the hull

 

[smackdaddy53]

https://www.familyhandyman.com/video/device/mobile/t/62388142/sawhorse-plans.htm?m_n=true#.VAE4OHm9LCQ

 

[Y_J]

smackdaddy53 » August 29th, 2014, 10:33 pm[/url]"]You could make a set of very sturdy saw horses for much cheaper than the plastic ones. 2x4's, a saw and wood screws are about all you need to build them. Once you build them screw a couple of 2x4's on each of them to support the hull

Got it, Mac.. Thanks.. Those on the link are cheaper than what I paid for them at HF. Appreciate it.

 

[Y_J]

Ok question for ya'll.
I've been researching insurance for my boat. Not having very good luck at all.
I've seen on the forums here somewhere about $25-30 per year but the least I can seem to come up with is $120 per yr.
Where and who are you getting your insurance with and about how much is it per year?
Some won't even bother with the boat unless I insure my truck with them.. Need some big time help here, guys and gals.

Also as a small bit of and update on my rebuild (no photos at the moment) I'm just about done getting all the paint off and down to bare Aluminum and picked up a few cans of Self Etching Primer to get me started. Now, a ???? about that also.
Once I put the primer on, what is the max time I should take before putting the first coat of paint on? I'm working off of a disability pension so $$$ don't come that easy so wondering if I should wait to put the primer on until nearly ready for the paint or if it is ok to put the primer on then paint when I can (if that makes any sense to ya). Also how may cans of primer should I be looking at for a 1236 boat for about 2-3 coats? (out side the hull only)

 

[great white]

This is not meant to be a smartarse answer: follow directions on the side of the can.

 

[onthewater102]

The directions on the can don't address that question - at least not on the cans I've got.

You want to be as close as possible. Within the same 24hr period is what most paint shops will tell you. The surface chemistry of the primer changes over time as it's exposed to the air, not to mention the longer it's primed the more likely you are to contaminate the surface.

 

[great white]

Mine did.

Top coat within a certain period of time or let dry for "X" days before top coat.

If the product gives direction then follow them. No one knows the product better than the manufacturer.

 

[Y_J]

great white » September 5th, 2014, 5:39 am[/url]"]This is not meant to be a smartarse answer: follow directions on the side of the can.

after reading your message I went out and got one of the cans and read it. Closest I could find was "Topcoat after 30 minutes. Allow more time for cooler temperatures". But above that it says "Allow Self Etching Primer to dry for a minimum of 3-4 hours before dry sanding"

But my question was (based on your experience) what is the longest I can wait before the topcoat paint goes on? My problem lies in that I am on a disability pension and I can't afford to buy both, the primer and topcoat in the same month. Can I go ahead and primer the hull them get the top coat the next month. I realize I didn't word it that way but that's pretty much what I was trying to get at.

I've never been through all this before, so I'm kind of relying on the knowledge of those that come before me. If I'm misunderstanding something on the can, I do apologize. I try to learn what I can from ya'll but sometimes ya'll are above my head so to speak, and for that I apologise.

BTW that was NOT taken as a smart *** answer. LOL would you believe I used to teach college classes before the doctors made me quit? LOL. Sometime I feel like I'm just getting stupider or something to that effect.
Hey, at any rate, you did cause me to actually break out the can and read the label. heheheheh And I thank you for that.

 

[great white]

A month after priming is just fine.

Just make sure the paints are compatible or the primer may shrink if the top coat is the wrong type.

Google will turn up lots of info on it and you've got a month to research it.....here's a good start:

https://www.duplicolor.com/faq/

Bon chance!

 

[smackdaddy53]

I would not prime it now and wait a month to top coat for the very reason that a boat can get mighty dirty sitting for a month or even working on it a little here and there for a month.
I would take care of some other things and then prime and top coat in the same day.
I also would not sand the primer, self etching primer is meant to go on in a single light coat. By the time you spray that whole boat the first part where you started would be about ready to top coat, especially on warm, dry days.
Make **** sure you get the hull down to bare aluminum with your wire wheel, wipe with acetone then tack cloth to remove any "fuzzies" from your acetone cloth.
I have done this very thing before! Trust me.

 

[Y_J]

Thanks so much, guys. There's a lot of good info on that web site. I appreciate that.

Using the Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer, I only need one coat? Now that could be a money saver. I'm glad you mentioned that cause I was gearing my head up for two or three coats.

Right now most all of the hull outside is down to bare aluminum. I've only got one side to go then I want to give it a quick pressure washing. Nothing major. Just get all the wire shavings from the cup brushes then take my hammer to it and tap out some small dings and dents.
Then I plan on using some low temp aluminum rods and fill in some holes in the transom and some breaks in the gunnels.

When I put the top coat on, I've been contemplating using the Rust-Oleum rattle cans but I'm not sure how well I'd be able to make the finish come out with those. The Color scheme I'm pondering on (and I'd like everyones opinion on this) is for below the waterline to be about this shade of Blue then on splash guards use Black and above the waterline would be Red. When I get the trailer from HF it is Red, and my truck is Red with a Black stripe down the sides. All outside paints will be High Gloss.

So what ya'll think?

 

[smackdaddy53]

If you have to use rattle cans I would definitely go with Rustoleum Enamel and then clear coat over it. With the right preparation and follow instructions you can have great results with rattle cans.
Youtube search how to use Rustoleum Enamel, Tack Coth, Maguires Polish and the correct sandpaper to get great results with it.

 

[Y_J]

smackdaddy53 » September 7th, 2014, 9:07 pm[/url]"]If you have to use rattle cans I would definitely go with Rustoleum Enamel and then clear coat over it. With the right preparation and follow instructions you can have great results with rattle cans.
Youtube search how to use Rustoleum Enamel, Tack Coth, Maguires Polish and the correct sandpaper to get great results with it.

Right on, Mac.. Thanks. Headed over to youtube now for a spell.. Appreciate it.

 

[smackdaddy53]

I tried to find the ones I watched but there are so many. Watch a few and you will get the jest of it.

 

[Y_J]

Yep. there is a lot for sure LOL.. I've been on there the past couple hours.
I'll use the Rust-Oleum Self Etching rattle cans, since I already bought those. And now leaning towards the Rust-Oleum Enamel thru my electric paint sprayer. I'm also considering getting that 10' x 17' garage at Harbor Freight and paint the boat and trailer inside of that so I don't have to worry about the nearly endless wind around here. Last thing I need is a neighbor screaming and yelling about wind carried over spray on their car or something.

Just today I hooked up a deal on a boat trailer for $100. Just got to wait on payday to get it. I will need to add a couple feet to the tongue. Looks like I'll be honing up on my old welding skills. hehehe It's only been about 40 yra. It's a homemade trailer and I believe it was actually made for a jet ski. It's got 12" wheels and tires on it that look to be in pretty good condition. He has an extra set of bunks that he's throwing in and a wench with new strap on it. The lights look to be in good condition but I'm going to put new wiring on it. I'll have to put a little money in it but it's darn cheaper than a new trailer, or even used ones that I've run across around here. Heck if worse comes to worse it would work pretty good on my fiberglass Gheenoe.

 

[Y_J]

Ok picked up the jetski trailer today and need to add 3 (three) feet to the overall length to it. The tubing that the trailer is made out of it 3" and the extra piece of tubing that the PO gave me is 2 1/2" so I think I'm going to have to use some shims on it somehow. (or find a 2 5/8" square tube to slide in it and weld on). Move the bunk brackets out to the edges. I've got an extra set of bunks that are 6' rather than the 4' that are on it so I'm thinking put the longer ones on the bottom and use the shorter ones as guide on bunks. Put a new wiring harness on for the lights and sand it all down to metal, primer, paint and be good to go. It's even got the bearing buddies on it. No wheel fenders so I got to find a couple to put on. I'll have a few photos on here tomorrow of what I've got to work with so any input ya'll can give me I'd surely appreciate it. I only paid $100 for it so a little work into it won't hurt my ego any..

 

[SumDumGuy]

I always check your progress YJ.

Good deal on the trailer.... getting closer and closer to more stories of adventure. :LOL2:

 

[Y_J]

SumDumGuy » September 26th, 2014, 1:28 pm[/url]"]I always check your progress YJ.

Good deal on the trailer.... getting closer and closer to more stories of adventure. :LOL2:

True story.... I picked it up day before yesterday. Got to extend the tongue another 3 ft. All the tubing on the trailer is 3" and he gave me a 4' section of 2 1/2" tubing, a near new winch with strap and hook, and 2 extra 6' bunks.. The trailer has no fenders on the wheels so got to find me a couple of them, Bearing buddies on the wheels, picked up a new light wiring harness at HF today, along with a new drill/driver and spare battery, a 3 gal. air compressor, an accessory kit for the compressor that leaks air on hand nozzle, (that sux since HF is 40 miles away)but all in all I'm acquiring the stuff I need to do the work with.
Did some brazing yesterday on the original bench seats to repair some cracks that were near the rivet holes. Plan on putting those back in as support for the decking. Contemplating chopping out most of the center bench for battery storage. Not sure how I'll do that just yet but figure putting the weight of the batteries at center stage will help stabilize the boat a bit along with the flat floor.
Onward and upward LOL....

 

[SumDumGuy]

I once made some fenders for a boat trailer out of a 55 gallon plastic drum and some scrap metal.

From 10 feet away (well, maybe 20 feet) they looked original to the trailer.

 

[Y_J]

Hmmmm. Not a bad idea, SDG.. I just might have to consider that option. Living on a disability pension money don't come fast and far from being big :roll: