Shoedawg
Well-known member
These are just my observations from my testing. They are by no means the definitive “WAY” to remove glue. Your own environmental conditions should be considered when working with these techniques, such as heat, humidity, shade, shop etc. These experiments were conducted in my garage with the garage door open in 66 degree weather. Your results may vary.
Before I begin.
Safety:
Please keep safety in mind when using chemicals and tools.
Safety glasses/goggles should be worn to prevent chemicals and metal chips flying into your eyes.
Wear chemical resistant gloves/disposable nitrate gloves to protect your hands from chemical burns and exposure. This will also keep your hands from drying out using the chemicals.
Use proper ventilation. I had my garage door open and a fan blowing out the fumes away from me while I worked with the different chemicals. A good mask with filter (one that protects against dust and fumes) is a good investment to protect yourself.
Wear protective gloves when operating power tools. Catching your finger on a 3200rpm spinning steel wire cup CAN and WILL hurt you, taking away the time you want to use to do your boat project.
NOTE: I am not here to argue about the use of steel cups, brass cups, stainless steel cups, (metal vs metal apocalypse) and how the metal chips can get into the microfiber pores of your tinny and then six months later it sinks to the bottom of the lake, because you used a brass cup on it. Stainless Steel is recommended, but you can use other's and I have with NO ill effect. Use at your own discretion and do some research about it.
The Testing
So I am in the process of removing 14 year old carpet glue on my remod that is a pain to remove without some chemicals and a little elbow grease to help out. I had some time on my hands today and some chemicals laying around the garage and decided to do some experiments and testing to see which methods yielded the best results.
Here are the following items/chemicals I used for the testing:
Chemicals
1. Jasco Paint & Epoxy Remover
2. Brush Cleaner
3. Denatured Alcohol
4. Mineral Spirits
5. Xylene
6. Acetone
Tools
1. Steel Wool #4
2. Brass Wire Wheel
3. Metal/Plastic Putty Knifes
4. 3M Paint/Rust Stripper Disc
5. 40, 120, & 220 grit sandpaper (Discs)
6. Spray Bottle
7. Cheap Paint Brushes
8. Heat Gun
Test # 1: The Heat Gun
My first test was with the heat gun. I set the heat to High and worked on a small area. I blew the heat on the tough glue for about 1-2 minutes, then used a #4 Steel Wool pad to remove the heated goop.
Results:
The steel wool did a fine job of removing the old heated glue. The metal surface was fairly smooth and clean, but did not fully remove all the glue. If you look closely, you can see a very thin film of glue still left over.
The process works OK, but would be time consuming on large pieces you may have to work with. It is best used in short patches of work or smaller pieces.
Test # 2: Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover
This test consisted of using Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It is fairly thick, which prevents runoff, if you are using it on a vertical surface.
I applied a glop on a new test area.
Then using a cheap chip/paint brush, I spread the remover over the glued surface area, spreading it evenly.
This stuff works really fast, and needs no more than 15 minutes to tear down the glue. I waited 3-5 minutes to let it do its work. Using a metal putty knife, I used gentle pressure along the putty knife’s edge and began to scrap off the glue.
Results:
The glue came off VERY well and glopped up nicely. The glob stays nicely together, making it easy to remove off the work surface and into the trash or onto a shop towel. It didn’t remove the very thin film at the base of the work area (like the same result for the heat gun), but it did go through the heavy and stacked up areas of the old glue. It also does not dry very fast like Xylene or Acetone does.
I was using Jasco’s on my boat to remove the old painted generic version of rhino liner, and it does a superb job. I have cleaned four panels so far (to include removing glue and paint) with this stuff and it goes a long way. I bought a quart of it, and still have about ½ a quart left. Only downside is, that it runs about $10-12 a quart.
Tips:
I also applied a layer of Jasco’s to the work piece where there was a thin film of glue and used a #4 Steel Wool pad, and it removed it all. After scrubbing the glue off, use a hose or pressure washer very soon after to get a nice and clean surface. If you can, use hot or warm water as oppose to cold. It will help wash away the leftovers. If you let it sit too long, it will dry, and thus not knock off all the glue.
Test # 3: Brush Cleaner
Brush Cleaner is great when you have very nice paint brushes that you paid some money for and want to save and use for future use. It does a very effective job of removing just about anything you throw your paint brush at. I had some laying around and decided to see how it would stand up.
I poured a small amount of brush cleaner on a new test area and let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then again, using my metal putty knife, I began to scrap off the glue.
Results:
It did fairly well. Almost on par with Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It had a consistent goop, easy to discard and again left a fine film of glue. I again poured some more brush cleaner to the area I just got done scraping off and let it sit for a few more minutes. Then I took my #4 Steel Wool pad and began to sand the area. It completely removed the rest of the glue.
Tips:
The Brush cleaner doesn’t evaporate as fast as Xylene/Acetone, but you still must work fairly quickly. It is also A LOT cheaper than Jasco’s remover. One quart of Brush Cleaner can be had for about $5-7 bucks at your local Hardware store, but you may have to purchase several quarts to do a large job.
Test # 4: Xylene & Acetone Mixture
I picked up this tip from DaveInGA while reading about his project here:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15343
Essentially I took a spray bottle and added a one for one ratio solution. One part Acetone and one part Xylene.
I then sprayed the solution to a new test area and let it soak for about 1 minute.
I then used a metal and a plastic putty knife to scoop the goop.
Results:
It scooped the goop fairly well. The goop was a little harder to remove off the work piece than the Jasco’s or Brush Cleaner, but not by much. Still it left that fine film of left over glue again. I applied another spray on the area I just got done cleaning, and let it sit again for 1 minute. Then I went over the area using, again, my #4 Steel Wool pad. It did an OK job of removing the rest of the leftover thin filmy glue, but I had to apply several applications and scrubbing to get it all clean.
Tips:
This stuff dries fast, so you have to work fast. Work in small increments. Take it in steps. Start with the first application to get rid of the major stuff (the first layer of heavy stuff), then move on to the second and a possible third step to remove the rest, using a steel wood pad. Acetone and Xylene are very inexpensive and easy to find. GooBeGone uses these two chemicals in their product and GooBeGone is not cheap.
Test # 5: Denature Alcohol
Denatured Alcohol did not fair very well during its test. The glob of glue took some time to scrap up and was very wet to discard. It also dries fast and did very little to eat up the glue. I would not recommend using it.
Test # 6: Mineral Spirits
Same results as the Denatured Alcohol and again, I would not recommend using it.
Test # 7: 40 Grit Sandpaper
For the test, I choose to use a pretty aggressive grit of sand paper that was mounted to Porter Cable orbital sander. I chose a new test area, and sanded the area (using a dry method, no chemicals were added pre-hand) using a very light touch.
Results:
The 40 grit tore up that glue and blasted it away! It also made some very nice scuff marks. I cleaned up the dust with a shop towel and some Acetone. This is a very effective way of removing that old stubborn glue, while also achieving some scuffing.
Tips:
40 grit may be too aggressive. I should have moved up to a 60 grit type, but had none on hand during the testing. I did have an 80 grit on hand, but did not include it for the test. I will try 80 grit the next time I need to remove some glue and post the results here. The orbit sander provides lots of control, is easy and works fast, but is limited when it comes to tight corners, or small areas.
Test # 8: 120 Grit Sandpaper
I bumped up to a 120 grit sandpaper disc and used the same testing methods as above (Test # 7) in a new testing area.
Results:
It worked very well. The 120 grit tears enough of the glue away and does not scuff very much of the work piece. I used light pressure on the sander, ensuring I was removing what I wanted. It took very little time, but not as fast as the 40 grit. The I cleaned it up with some Acetone.
View attachment 4
Tips:
120 grit works very well, and would be a great “all-around” sander for getting off that nasty glue. Using a 120g is not as aggressive as the other lower grits (like 40, 60, 80, etc) and does not take as much time as the higher grits do (160, 180, 220, etc), as you will see in the next test.
Test # 9: 220 Grit (Dry Sand/Wet Sand)
Again I upped the Ante on the grit and used a 220g this time.
Results:
220g did a very fine job of removing the glue, but took some time to remove it. It added about 5 more minutes of sanding time. It does however leave a very smooth finish.
I then cleaned the area with Acetone.
I also tried a “wet sand” using 220 grit sandpaper while the working surface was wet with the Acetone/Xylene solution. It did a very good job and easily cleaned the left over glue. BUT, I only used the wet sand method AFTER I had removed the very first layer of nasty glue. Don’t use a lot of pressure when sanding.
Downside to this method is that it does take a little bit of time to sand. You could try a 180 grit or even a 120 grit to speed things up, but I wouldn’t recommend using anything lower than 80 grit. As my testing showed, using 40 grit really scuffs up the working surface.
Note:
I am not an expert when it comes to painting a Jon Boat. There are many arguments and debates about scuffing a boat and how to do it or not doing it all. It all depends on what you are trying to achieve and what to do. Right now, I am on the fence about painting or carpet or nothing.
I chose not to scuff up my work pieces until I come to a decision of what I want to do. If you plan on scuffing your boat, then by all means scuff away. Doing it during the cleaning process may save you some time. But this post is not about paint removal. It is about some methods I have tested to see what may work for you to get rid of old glue. That is why I didn’t recommend to use anything lower than 80 grit, but that was for my testing purposes.
Part 2 of this experiment follows below in the next post.
Before I begin.
Safety:
Please keep safety in mind when using chemicals and tools.
Safety glasses/goggles should be worn to prevent chemicals and metal chips flying into your eyes.
Wear chemical resistant gloves/disposable nitrate gloves to protect your hands from chemical burns and exposure. This will also keep your hands from drying out using the chemicals.
Use proper ventilation. I had my garage door open and a fan blowing out the fumes away from me while I worked with the different chemicals. A good mask with filter (one that protects against dust and fumes) is a good investment to protect yourself.
Wear protective gloves when operating power tools. Catching your finger on a 3200rpm spinning steel wire cup CAN and WILL hurt you, taking away the time you want to use to do your boat project.
NOTE: I am not here to argue about the use of steel cups, brass cups, stainless steel cups, (metal vs metal apocalypse) and how the metal chips can get into the microfiber pores of your tinny and then six months later it sinks to the bottom of the lake, because you used a brass cup on it. Stainless Steel is recommended, but you can use other's and I have with NO ill effect. Use at your own discretion and do some research about it.
The Testing
So I am in the process of removing 14 year old carpet glue on my remod that is a pain to remove without some chemicals and a little elbow grease to help out. I had some time on my hands today and some chemicals laying around the garage and decided to do some experiments and testing to see which methods yielded the best results.
Here are the following items/chemicals I used for the testing:
Chemicals
1. Jasco Paint & Epoxy Remover
2. Brush Cleaner
3. Denatured Alcohol
4. Mineral Spirits
5. Xylene
6. Acetone
Tools
1. Steel Wool #4
2. Brass Wire Wheel
3. Metal/Plastic Putty Knifes
4. 3M Paint/Rust Stripper Disc
5. 40, 120, & 220 grit sandpaper (Discs)
6. Spray Bottle
7. Cheap Paint Brushes
8. Heat Gun
Test # 1: The Heat Gun
My first test was with the heat gun. I set the heat to High and worked on a small area. I blew the heat on the tough glue for about 1-2 minutes, then used a #4 Steel Wool pad to remove the heated goop.
Results:
The steel wool did a fine job of removing the old heated glue. The metal surface was fairly smooth and clean, but did not fully remove all the glue. If you look closely, you can see a very thin film of glue still left over.
The process works OK, but would be time consuming on large pieces you may have to work with. It is best used in short patches of work or smaller pieces.
Test # 2: Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover
This test consisted of using Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It is fairly thick, which prevents runoff, if you are using it on a vertical surface.
I applied a glop on a new test area.
Then using a cheap chip/paint brush, I spread the remover over the glued surface area, spreading it evenly.
This stuff works really fast, and needs no more than 15 minutes to tear down the glue. I waited 3-5 minutes to let it do its work. Using a metal putty knife, I used gentle pressure along the putty knife’s edge and began to scrap off the glue.
Results:
The glue came off VERY well and glopped up nicely. The glob stays nicely together, making it easy to remove off the work surface and into the trash or onto a shop towel. It didn’t remove the very thin film at the base of the work area (like the same result for the heat gun), but it did go through the heavy and stacked up areas of the old glue. It also does not dry very fast like Xylene or Acetone does.
I was using Jasco’s on my boat to remove the old painted generic version of rhino liner, and it does a superb job. I have cleaned four panels so far (to include removing glue and paint) with this stuff and it goes a long way. I bought a quart of it, and still have about ½ a quart left. Only downside is, that it runs about $10-12 a quart.
Tips:
I also applied a layer of Jasco’s to the work piece where there was a thin film of glue and used a #4 Steel Wool pad, and it removed it all. After scrubbing the glue off, use a hose or pressure washer very soon after to get a nice and clean surface. If you can, use hot or warm water as oppose to cold. It will help wash away the leftovers. If you let it sit too long, it will dry, and thus not knock off all the glue.
Test # 3: Brush Cleaner
Brush Cleaner is great when you have very nice paint brushes that you paid some money for and want to save and use for future use. It does a very effective job of removing just about anything you throw your paint brush at. I had some laying around and decided to see how it would stand up.
I poured a small amount of brush cleaner on a new test area and let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then again, using my metal putty knife, I began to scrap off the glue.
Results:
It did fairly well. Almost on par with Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It had a consistent goop, easy to discard and again left a fine film of glue. I again poured some more brush cleaner to the area I just got done scraping off and let it sit for a few more minutes. Then I took my #4 Steel Wool pad and began to sand the area. It completely removed the rest of the glue.
Tips:
The Brush cleaner doesn’t evaporate as fast as Xylene/Acetone, but you still must work fairly quickly. It is also A LOT cheaper than Jasco’s remover. One quart of Brush Cleaner can be had for about $5-7 bucks at your local Hardware store, but you may have to purchase several quarts to do a large job.
Test # 4: Xylene & Acetone Mixture
I picked up this tip from DaveInGA while reading about his project here:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15343
Essentially I took a spray bottle and added a one for one ratio solution. One part Acetone and one part Xylene.
I then sprayed the solution to a new test area and let it soak for about 1 minute.
I then used a metal and a plastic putty knife to scoop the goop.
Results:
It scooped the goop fairly well. The goop was a little harder to remove off the work piece than the Jasco’s or Brush Cleaner, but not by much. Still it left that fine film of left over glue again. I applied another spray on the area I just got done cleaning, and let it sit again for 1 minute. Then I went over the area using, again, my #4 Steel Wool pad. It did an OK job of removing the rest of the leftover thin filmy glue, but I had to apply several applications and scrubbing to get it all clean.
Tips:
This stuff dries fast, so you have to work fast. Work in small increments. Take it in steps. Start with the first application to get rid of the major stuff (the first layer of heavy stuff), then move on to the second and a possible third step to remove the rest, using a steel wood pad. Acetone and Xylene are very inexpensive and easy to find. GooBeGone uses these two chemicals in their product and GooBeGone is not cheap.
Test # 5: Denature Alcohol
Denatured Alcohol did not fair very well during its test. The glob of glue took some time to scrap up and was very wet to discard. It also dries fast and did very little to eat up the glue. I would not recommend using it.
Test # 6: Mineral Spirits
Same results as the Denatured Alcohol and again, I would not recommend using it.
Test # 7: 40 Grit Sandpaper
For the test, I choose to use a pretty aggressive grit of sand paper that was mounted to Porter Cable orbital sander. I chose a new test area, and sanded the area (using a dry method, no chemicals were added pre-hand) using a very light touch.
Results:
The 40 grit tore up that glue and blasted it away! It also made some very nice scuff marks. I cleaned up the dust with a shop towel and some Acetone. This is a very effective way of removing that old stubborn glue, while also achieving some scuffing.
Tips:
40 grit may be too aggressive. I should have moved up to a 60 grit type, but had none on hand during the testing. I did have an 80 grit on hand, but did not include it for the test. I will try 80 grit the next time I need to remove some glue and post the results here. The orbit sander provides lots of control, is easy and works fast, but is limited when it comes to tight corners, or small areas.
Test # 8: 120 Grit Sandpaper
I bumped up to a 120 grit sandpaper disc and used the same testing methods as above (Test # 7) in a new testing area.
Results:
It worked very well. The 120 grit tears enough of the glue away and does not scuff very much of the work piece. I used light pressure on the sander, ensuring I was removing what I wanted. It took very little time, but not as fast as the 40 grit. The I cleaned it up with some Acetone.
View attachment 4
Tips:
120 grit works very well, and would be a great “all-around” sander for getting off that nasty glue. Using a 120g is not as aggressive as the other lower grits (like 40, 60, 80, etc) and does not take as much time as the higher grits do (160, 180, 220, etc), as you will see in the next test.
Test # 9: 220 Grit (Dry Sand/Wet Sand)
Again I upped the Ante on the grit and used a 220g this time.
Results:
220g did a very fine job of removing the glue, but took some time to remove it. It added about 5 more minutes of sanding time. It does however leave a very smooth finish.
I then cleaned the area with Acetone.
I also tried a “wet sand” using 220 grit sandpaper while the working surface was wet with the Acetone/Xylene solution. It did a very good job and easily cleaned the left over glue. BUT, I only used the wet sand method AFTER I had removed the very first layer of nasty glue. Don’t use a lot of pressure when sanding.
Downside to this method is that it does take a little bit of time to sand. You could try a 180 grit or even a 120 grit to speed things up, but I wouldn’t recommend using anything lower than 80 grit. As my testing showed, using 40 grit really scuffs up the working surface.
Note:
I am not an expert when it comes to painting a Jon Boat. There are many arguments and debates about scuffing a boat and how to do it or not doing it all. It all depends on what you are trying to achieve and what to do. Right now, I am on the fence about painting or carpet or nothing.
I chose not to scuff up my work pieces until I come to a decision of what I want to do. If you plan on scuffing your boat, then by all means scuff away. Doing it during the cleaning process may save you some time. But this post is not about paint removal. It is about some methods I have tested to see what may work for you to get rid of old glue. That is why I didn’t recommend to use anything lower than 80 grit, but that was for my testing purposes.
Part 2 of this experiment follows below in the next post.