Recent content by bowman5

Looks like it's going great. You should be fine with the JB Weld. I can't think of anything better that's as easy to use and inexpensive. I used a few tubes on my boat. It was in MUCH worse shape than yours when I got it and it's holding up fine.

I HIGHLY recommend you give it a try. The first night my buddy and I went out on his boat, we shot 83, and that was in about 4 1/2 hours. And we missed ALOT.

It depends on a few things; what kind of wood (mine's BC grade plywood; much less-prone to warping and checking [cracking and splitting] than a solid-wood), what kind of finish (spar varnish with a U.V. inhibitor is great, but definetly something to seal it good), and how well and often you...

Thanks alot Preach. I sealed the wood with 4 coats of spar-varnish with a U.V. inhibitor, to help protect it against the sun, and water of course. I'll clean it up and add another coat every spring, and that's all I should have to do to it, unless it gets a ding in it. We don't eat the carp...

The glue is Tite Bond Urethane glue. It expands as it dries and it look like that Great Stuff spray foam. You don't need to use very much of it. Thanks again guys. I do take alot of pride in my work.

Thanks alot guys. I have been a carpenter for 16+ years and I started in a cabinet shop. I've been doing custom stairs and railings for the past 8 1/2 years. I like making things come out nice. Bassboy, most of the movement we have on it is side to side. Noone rides up there while under...

All the wood for the elevated frame wasof either 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/4" wide or 1" wide scrap I had lying around. All the ends are mitered tight, glued, predrilled and screwed. It doesn't even squeak when me and my partner are on it, it's so tight. And light-weight too. And here it is on the...

I just covered it up with the oak, and then used some bondo and spray paint to finish off what the wood didn't cover. Here's a couple of it finished; Then I had to start the frame for the elevated deck. It is a bowfishing boat, remember?

I then started on the gunnel-caps all the way round the boat. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of these few steps. It was pretty involved here and I was preoccupied with getting the curves all right. Spot for the bow-light.. ..and stern-light.. ..and then I drilled, screwed and plugged the...

I then finished up the bow and sealed it all with 2 coats of spar-varnish... ..put some 3" and 4" screws into the corners to keep everything tight.. ..and planed the gunnels level with the boat. Nice and level gunnels all the way around. I ended up changing all the hex-head bolts to real...

I replaced the transom and hardware on it. The glue is a strong polyurethane glue I use for high-stress jobs, like when I'm bending wood. A new bow-board in front.. and layers of 1/2" red oak for the new gunnels. I put thick beads of silicon caulk along the wood where it met the aluminium of...

I posted a link to this one in the other forum, but I wanted to post each pic, so here it is. I got a deal on this thing, and it's obvious why. But I had alot of free time coming up, a few good ideas and alot of oak left over from some past jobs (I'm a finish-carpenter). Here's what it looked...

Thanks alot guys. The boat is a 1448 jon. Pretty much all the ways I went about putting it all together was variations of different types of woodworking I've learned over the years of being a carpenter. I laminated to 1/2" strips I used for the gunnels like I do when I'm bending stringers for...

Here's a link to a slideshow of a jon boat I rebuilt using wood. Red oak as a matter of fact. I'm a carpenter and I have TONS of scrap lying around from stair jobs I've done over the years. A couple friends of mine came across this jon boat and bought it from a kid who needed to get rid of it...