Recent content by catmansteve

Another vote for Riverpro. Not that the Rockproof isn't an awesome boat, because it is, but to me it is designed for the sole purpose of running really rocky, nasty places, where the Riverpro is a "go anywhere, do anything" type of rig.

I can't find an NLGI weight for the 2-4-c, but if it's intended for external engine parts (tilt tube, pivot points, etc.) my guess is it's too heavy for the pump bearing. Outboard Jets calls for NLGI 1, which is pretty "thin." Not saying you can't get by with something else, but it would be like...

You guys crack me up. Whenever I'm having a tough day, I read this thread and think "it could be worse, I could be Bass Addict"

Lubriplate 630 AA is what Outboard Jets recommends, but any decent waterproof NLGI 1 should work. If you haven't come across it already, check out outboardjets.com, most of the general information is on there somewhere

The regular Great Stuf will soak up water eventually, which is a pita to deal with down the road (ask me how much fun it was to get the waterlogged foam out of my Tracker.) However, they do make a minimal expansion Great Stuf for insulating door and window jambs, I think it may be closed cell...

Agreed. I was just talking to a guy the other day that hit a rock ledge on the Potomac at 35mph, launched him and his buddy out and said the boat kept going for 200 yds until it hit the bank. I'd like to hold onto my rookie status as long as possible!

What he said. I'll also add that a lot of the older pumps don't have the hose fitting so there is no way to run it out of water, but it isn't difficult to install one. The grease fitting has a short piece of hose attached to it that goes back into the pump. VERY GENTLY pump grease in until you...

I'm going to have a 500 gph hooked up to a float switch on the deep cell battery, and a 800 gph hooked to the starting battery with an "oh ****" switch right next to the throttle control

Finally got the boat back from the welder, 2 weeks later, and I'm far from satisfied. If anyone can tell me what I need for an affordable aluminum MIG setup I'm all ears. Anyway, primed the welded spots, put the foam in, and riveted the floor back down. Mocked up the controls, livewell, and...

The angle you have is probably strong enough, but you need something thicker to be able to tap threads through. Maybe find some scraps of 1/4" flat aluminum, 1"x1" squares, and glue, rivet, or weld them at the bolt locations. Gluing them on with 5200 would probably be easier, and since the edge...

Haha, best line I've heard for awhile In all seriousness, I know a guy that bought a brand new boat, 17 or 18', had a center console put in, all aluminum decks, floors, high end bedliner, and a brand new 90/65 jet on the back, probably a $12-$15k rig. He's afraid to take it in less than 18" of...

The "seat mount framing" pieces you put in to run your bolts thru should be 1/4" or thicker aluminum, that way you can drill holes and use a tap to thread the holes to match the bolt threads. The bolt gets threaded in from underneath, and because it's threaded you won't have to worry about it...

Your layout is real similar to what I've got planned. I think you're going to want your seat as far forward as you can comfortably get and still have legroom in front of you, I know you haven't run it with the jet yet but my boat is rear-heavy, especially with a passenger in back, and since our...

06 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L gas, the day I brought the new boat home. Unless you look in the mirror you'd never know the boat was behind it, but at 11 mpg it ain't quite ideal for long trips :shock:

BRILLIANT =D> Installing/removing my trolling motor requires me to reach through the storage opening in the bow to put the nuts and washers on, I'm gonna have to figure out a way to make this concept work on my boat.