Recent content by Colorado1135

Don't worry about marine grade. I used wood glue between the two sheets I used and then put in multiple screws and then put a bunch of weights on mine when I did it. Once it dries I pulled out the screws then put a layer of epoxy resin and fiberglass on the exterior surfaces. Slipped right in...

It will add stability however it might not be a lot. 1/2" definitely isn't overkill. If stability is your primary objective then extra weight in the bottom by thicker decking wouldn't be a bad thing. Personally I'd go with the 1/2 and then add ballast if needed with a battery and or fuel tank...

In marine grade they get rid of the voids, if you're sealing it anyway that doesn't really matter, in fact I think those open voids helps in taking in the epoxy so it could be a benefit perhaps. My reference was to the grade of exterior. ABCD refers to how finished one surface is, if it's all...

The grade of plywood doesn't really matter as long as it's an exterior. On the last one I did I added fiberglass layers all around the outside. Not sure if do that again, added cost, was messy and took way longer. I'm not sure how much it added to it really strength wise. Just smother it in...

Hard to go too long on a trolling motor. I once saw a website that recommended the minimum length based on the boat, but I don't recall where it was

Take lots of pics as you go, even if you don't post them you'll be glad later you documented the process

I don't, the numbers are on the side. Thankfully I live in a free state, probably the last one in the nation. Never been asked for it the few times I've been checked

Bingo that's exactly what I would do. I have a rivet gun and correct rivets so that's what I would use to keep it as close to original as possible but if I didn't I would just use bolts like mentioned. Easy replacement you can do in a light afternoon

My thoughts exactly

As a disabled vet in South Dakota I get my hunting and fishing license for $10 and it's valid for 4 years before I have to renew again.

I used a heavy duty tote from Menards, plumbed it how I wanted and stuck it in the bow then decked over it. Used an old rubber mat secured under the deck to seal it. Worked like a charm.

I used a gel type paint remover when I did it, I didn't pressure wash but scraped it all, looking back I wish I had a pressure washer. It bubbled up like you said in the vid you watched and worked great, it removed the original Lund paint and the rattle can paint over it. I replaced it with...

Check the transom and see if it's solid, replace it when you swap motors. Those are great boats and have a lot of potential for builds. Enjoy the father son project!

I've seen leaks come from the flimsy drain line, those are hard leaks to chase. I'd say take some pics of it and measurements and start tearing up the floor until you access the area you want. Fix it then work your way out repairing. If it's bad enough then rebuild the whole floor or throw a new...

I ran into the same problem, luckily I had the missing piece and took it in to be welded. I'd check at a welding shop and see if they can fix it, bring the other one in as a reference. That's what is do anyway. Good luck!