Recent content by mbweimar

Rich, I'm going to assume they're gas. When moving up and down by hand, it's very smooth and quiet. No springy sounds or feeling. They've held up well iver the last year, and even look like real trim tabs.

I second Rich. I put Bennett SLT's on my rig, and it made a noticeable difference in stability while under way. However, while while anchored or drifting these won't heloat all. For stability while stationary, float pods would be most effective. There are also several cases where people...

I ALWAYS remove my unit from the boat when not using it. A little dielectric grease in the connectors every couple months keeps rain and moisture out while not plugged in.

I did mine through the transom, but didn't have any other option. It's a center console livewell. I wish I had the option of draining above the water level.

I like very my ETEC 40. It'll be 10 years old next year.

I bought a set of Peterson LEDs on Amazon 5 years ago. Peterson manufacturs a lot if lights for semi trucks and trailers. I should also mention that in use my boat exclusively in salt water and gets dunked at least once a week.

Rich, I'm planning on being up there sometime late summer/early fall. My 23' Mako is up there and I need to bring it back down here. I'll give you a shout when I get a better idea of when I'll be up.

It depends on the amperage your TM draws. If it's a 12v 55lb thrust, expect 35-40 amps. I would use 6 guage wire just to be safe. 8 guage, depending on how long the run is, may get pretty warm, and create more of a voltage drop.

The Garmin GPSMAP 78 is a great quality handheld unit. It's capable of displaying heading, speed, average speed, distance traveled, etc. Takes two AA batteries, and uses a mini USB cable for external power. It also has a port for an external GPS antenna. I bought mine with a Garmin Map chip for...

This is the schematic I follow when wiring nav/anchor lights. It uses the same double pole double throw switch, and allows "one circuit on, or both on." This eliminates the need for a diode, and is one less component to fail.

If it's a new boat, and you want your setup to last, it's best to buy good wire. Tinned copper will resist corrosion, and when used with proper heat shrink and connectors, will give you trouble free service for years. Through my years of electrical engineering, I've taken plenty of shortcuts...

My parents live in Ten Mile on the lake. I actually live in South Florida, but have been spending my summers at that house since I was in diapers. I know the lake between Blue Springs and the dam better than a lot of locals.

Rich, I've been known to use heavy casting spoons like that on Watts Bar Lake for stripers and white bass. Mostly for vertical jigging, but it sure is fun. Funny how the same spoons I use in the surf down here for bluefish, and snook work just as well 800 miles away in freshwater.

Ok, I know it's been a while since I've been around. I've been enjoying the heck out of my Weldbilt since I restored it. One thing I did during the restore was have an aluminum fuel cell installed in the bow. The largest size I could get away with was about 6 gallons. This is fine for a single...

A lot of tiller boats down here in south florida use these grab bar consoles. You can mount switches and electronics on the outside, and keep all the wiring inside.