Recent content by oukast

There just a ball and socket....you can get them off by grabbing them with a pliers and turning them at a 90 degree angle. Getting new ones on is as simple as putting the new cup in place and running the clamp down.....reusing the cups is a trick in itself to get them to stay tight though.

My lower unit leaks a little too....not just from exhaust residue either. (I run 100:1 Amsoil) Some smart guy had a leaking seal on the lower unit and put a big gouge in the seal housing getting the old seal out. Now it leaks worse with the new seals than with the old....I keep i topped off with...

Only problem I see with doing it this way is that the handle will be whipping around pretty good when you drop anchor. My anchormate has a free spool button that releases the drum from the handle for the anchor to drop. Otherwise the cranking on the anchormate is 1:1 and I would guess the crank...

My '82 Grumman Sportsman 4.6: And the "riverboat".

I have ZERO experience with the rattle can Valspar Enamel but I have used the Valspar Implement Enamel in gallon form with hardener on my wrecker boxes for years. It takes a good week to get a real hard cure but once it does you can throw chains, hooks and auto parts around on the stuff all day...

Two years ago while I was drilling a hole in the frame of my pickup tor a mounting bracket the drillbit bound then spun the drill around breaking two bones in my hand....tried my damndest to keep on drilling but eventually had to make the walk of shame and get the wife to drive me to the...

Thats a steal!!!!

My little JohnnyRude has clamps on the top and then two bolts about 4" down. I can't imagine trusting just the two clamps on anything bigger than a trolling motor, especially since there is supposed to be bolts in it. I wouldn't stress to much about the holes, they are small easily sealed with a...

Glu-Vit is spendy for sure but the smallest can is plenty big for even the biggest Jon. You only need to do the rivets and seams of a welded boat, I would think any corrosion bad enough to leak would be pretty obvious. As far as whether its worth sealing pinholes really depends on if you have a...

I would use 5200 for any leaks you could see light through, for the pin holes that are impossible to find I would Glu-Vit the hull. For sealing up holes in the transom and stuff like that I like the JB Weld Marine.

I have a '82 Grumman Sportsman 4.6 (15' (Side console, full deck))with a 35hp full gear including trolling motor, batteries and a cooler full of barley pop. A very large me so I count that as two people and my wife. We do about 26mph per GPS at WOT with an 11" pitch. When I go it alone with...

I wouldn't worry about it, the transom is rated for the 25hp anyways. On second thought I think putting a thin board across a transom could do more harm than good with the twisting motion it will want to do. Just my 2¢.

I shortened the shaft of a Minn-Kota a few years ago. All I did was use a pipe cutter to cut the shaft where I wanted it. Used a cut off wheel on my Dremel to make a slot down it so I could peel it off the wires. Drilled a new hole for the set screw and put it back together.

No almost all 87 octane contains ethanol. Most non-ethanol fuel is 91 or 92 octane at least here in MN.

I just redid all my fuel lines because of ethanol deterioration, it was replaced with some fancy yellow silicone hose that is supposed to be ethanol safe.