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Honestly I've thought about adding pods but for what it will cost me I'm probably gonna pull the trigger on 1750 xpress next year.Then swap my motor and console over and eventually add a newer 60/40 jet to it. If I planned on keeping it I would definitely add pods but the boat is just little...

I've got a G3 1448 with a 40/30 Yamaha forward mounted center console full front deck for fishing I've got a 10 gallon gas tank in rear and two batteries up front under deck. With a boat this short you really need to play with weight distribution just a couple pounds here and there can make a...

If you have the budget for it aluminum would save weight and be just as strong just gotta spend a little more in the beginning. Might want look at some scrap yards might get lucky and find some cut off sheets you can use and generally get a pretty good price I got all my aluminum at the scrap...

My front deck is all welded but you will see need framing underneath to support the floor I used .125 gauge for the floor and some scrap 1" aluminum square tubing for the framing

I have a 1448 G3 tunnel hull with a 93 yamaha 40/28 mine is a tiller though boat works great for me and one other person I can run mid to high 20 mph range and boat handles great I had to drag it off a rock Monday by myself and although it wasn't easy it was doable. I can't compare the steering...

I'd try what ranchero said. I've got a 1448 with 40 28 and I was having similar problems I moved my batteries forward under my front deck and went to smaller gas tank in the rear of the boat and helped out a lot takes some fine tuning to get these boats running right good luck

I run all my electronics off one battery and mines fine. I have a min Kota maxum and lowrance 5dsi that are on together all the time and occasionally have my running lights or bilge pumps on also I've never had a problem

Well I figured my problem the ground wire for low oil switch was starting to break at connector must have been losing contact intermittently causing my problem had it out yesterday to test and it was fine. It limiting rpm to 2000 not sure why I was loosing spark but everything's good now thanks...

I'll try it after dark didn't think of that. But when I swapped coils I left the plug wires attached to coil it has three separate coils with real short wires to each tried them in all different configurations even took the ends off and cut them down and reattached them Ends are weird not...

It does have an overheat switch but it's connected to a warning light which has never come on. It will always run good on initial startup then it comes and goes with no reason that's why it so hard to figure out cause it only does it when it wants. I thought coils or wires to but I tried...

I checked the low oil switch per the manual and swapped coils around to no help so I don't think the wires have anything do with it all it a pull start so no key and only kill switch is good but I think that would allow no power at all not just one cylinder. Also for got in first post...

I've got a 1990 Yamaha 40sd-jd I'm losing spark to my number 2 cylinder intermittently carbs are good fees rebuild checked fuel pump with vacuum gauge all good checking spark with a spark tester it comes and goes no rhyme or reason it will always be ok on initial start up then next time it will...

Nice looking boat I have a similar setup on mine and the leading edge of my foot is about 3/4" higher then the rear of the tunnel. The advice I was given was to set it so the top of tunnel lines up with the beginning of the intake grates and it's working well on mine.

Took my jet apart to clean and inspect the impeller and sleeve and noticed the po sharpened the top and bottom of the the impeller which from reading is no good. So my question is can file the impeler down on the face of the leading edge flat and then sharpen correctly or do I need to get a new...

Did some measuring and don't even need the jack plate so I took that off now the foot sits a lot closer to the tunnel and is tucked under extension

Did you make those fins or did you buy them I already took out the step and made it more smooth of a transition from boat to the extension gonna try it like this if that doesn't work gonna have the sides of tunnel extended out also I'm more worried about the cavitation then the spray but I would...

I though about that after looking at other designs. Get rid of the piece in the middle and just attach the top piece of aluminum directly to the bottom idk why that plastic is in there but I'll give that a go

Just got this boat had it out a few times at first the foot was about an inch below the tunnel extension and got a lot of spray and drag so I raised it up even with extension and got some heavy cavitation and still spray up into the boat so now I moved down just below the extension and tucked it...

I wouldn't run a jack plate I have one on my boat I just bought and I'm having trouble getting it dialed in.Get the taller transom keep the motor closer to transom so less air can get between the boat and intake. Which causes cavitation which is the problem I'm having now

I just got rid of my Mercury 25/20 on my 1448 G3 it ran good with me alone with two people you could feel the weight but it managed you aren't going to set any speed records but it works I've jumped up to a 40/28 Yamaha now and it made a world of difference