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Thanks to all for the response. Pappy it took a few times but got your "adjustment" done, & it worked, but only for about 8hrs of fishing. Now it's decision time, try & source another gearcase, that may also be worn, spend the coin for new parts, or try & find someone who needs a good power...

Thanks for the response, not sure if I understand sitting here, but I am sure I will have a better chance at understanding reading this again while I will have the motor in hand……John

Thanks for the response, but as I mentioned in the original post, it's a tiller motor, no controls John

Haven't posted in a while as I just started using my 14' Mirror craft again. I have a 1977,25HP, electric start Johnson, tiller motor, mod # 25E77S. Under load the engine has started popping out of gear, & sometimes I get a "bang" like it hits an underwater object. I have taken the vertical...

As stated above first try & rebuck. If that doesn't stop the water, I have found that JB Weld works as long as you are working on a section of the hull that does not flex. The JB Weld will dry rock solid & if the hull flexes it will crack. I have used 3M 5200 with good success. John

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Did the voltage test. While it was trying to crank had 11.9 at the battery, then 11.8 at the starter. Put in a new starter, and all is right in my world once again. Thanks for the help. John

Thanks for the response, I'll give it a try. John

I have a 1977 Johnson, 25Hp, electric start Mod#25E77S. Owned the outboard for about 4yrs & has almost always has starting issues. Turn the key & it would strain to turn over, then crank & start. Now it strains to turn over & won't turn over fast enough to start. Here is what I have done so far...

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My 16' Lund is an '08, & my 14' MirroCraft is a 1977. John

It also may have something to do with the placement of the tiller itself on the outboard. Since the tiller is on the port side of the outboard, if the Capt. sat his (or her) butt on the port side of the boat, the tiller would be close to the Capts. body, & a turn to starboard would be difficult...

I have a 1977 25Hp Johnson, model#25E77S, & the prop nut has corroded & cracked. I have seen on line that a replacement is a $25 part. Is their any reason why & can't replace it with a stainless steel castle nut that would take a cotter pin, once I measure the size & thread count. John

Got back to it yesterday, took 1 1/2 turns to bottom out, turned it down to a little less than 1 1/4 & it ran better, BUT the needle valve just didn't "feel" right. After running the boat for a short while, it began to run rough again. I went back to the needle valve & it was more than 1 1/2...

Will do. I'm currently in Sebastian Fla with this boat & motor, & it's 41 degrees & blowing a steady 25 so I don't know if I'll get to it for a few days, John

All close enough for a starting point. Thank you for the response. John

I'll take a close look at the needle valve, & try & determine if it looks worn, I did not think of that. I suspected that the starting point was 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 a turn out, thanks for the reply. I have ordered from MarinEngine in the past. I guess if I simple adjustment doesn't work ( as I know...

I have a 1977 25hp Johnson, Mod#25E77S, that doesn't want to settle into a smooth idle. Before I dig deeper, what is the starting point for the needle valve adjustment. On this carb. the needle valve is on the front of the carb above the fuel bowl. John

I was always told it was bad luck to change the name of a boat. Changed the name on mine 8 years ago, she still floats, & has brought me home every trip. I say go for it. John