Search results

Exactly why I said 2-0 AWG. But yeah if you're not sure if you'll need 15 or 17' of wire....

For less resistance/heat build up due to wire length, use 0 or 2 awg.

They sell metal mounting pads/brackets for those situations. There is a store, local to me that does nothing but tin boat stuff. They have a universal mount for $35. I'm sure with an online search you could find one. You can also have one fabbed up...

Ok that makes sense then. I wasn't sure about that when I was getting 16-17" measurements. Thanks everyone for your input. I'll start with compression test. I've got $ for a replacement so I may just replace it

I have a 13p and a 15p both 10" diameter. It is a short shaft I believe but I'm almost thinking I should run a 20" shaft and get a manual jack plate to lift it a couple inches. My polarkraft (1452) was easy because transom was 20" exactly. 25hp 20" evinrude pushed it 30mph and popped out of...

So the motor is a short shaft and it's directly on the transom. I think it's a short shaft, mid section is just over 15". My transom measures at 17". That may explain the prop cavitation while on plane if I hit chop or a wake.

Well I had thought briefly about adding something like that but, I think that even without that, a 35hp should really push a 16' Jon boat much quicker as well as a better top end. It's almost like its dropping a cylinder as soon as I go wot....as if the timer base is messed up, or a finicky...

Hey all, first post and look forward to learning from y'all. First it's a 1648 Lowe big jon with a 1981 johnson 35 2 stroke, tiller. I have a 13p and 15p props for it depending what I'm doing with what load. With me, 2 batteries, bow mount trolling motor, 6 gal gas in rear it takes 15-20...