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I got my Transom rebuilt finally. It didn't go as good as I hoped. I made a bunch of mistakes, even redid half of it once, thank God for Quick Aluminum Epoxy! Sigh, but it's done, for now. I think I might rip the transom completely apart and rebuild it when I do my conversion in the offseason...

Hmm I didn't really notice those bolts, I thought they were original maybe. Maybe the guy before me put them in. I edited my last post, adding more detail. Thanks again DaleH Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Thanks DaleH, No More Nails lists aluminum as a compatible surface. The rivets seemed fine back there, I think the problem is a big gap formed and he stuffed puddy in it. I worked hard to get it all out and then filled it with Quick Aluminum Epoxy but now I'm thinking I shoulda closed that gap...

I'm getting ready to patch up my inner transom seam. I patched the outside with Quick Aluminum Epoxy. It looks really good but I'm debating on what to use inside. I took the silicone the guy before me had on there and found some soft puddy material under it (he used it in every seam I've cleaned...

Ya I looked at that one but it won't work for me cuz it's 17" wide and I've only got about 12" at the top of the raiser that the other guy put in. Well, unless I mount it high and just deal with it being above the transom. That other one would be much cleaner, just wish it wasn't so expensive :(...

I was curious what you guys think I should do... The guy I got my boat off of raised the transom to accommodate a long shaft motor but he didn't raise it enough. He only raised it a shade over 2.25". When I measure it, my cavitation plate is 2" below my hull and I'm reading it should be...

I discovered https://crossborderpickups.ca can bring Fasco Steelflex up to Canada for me. Fasco keeps saying to do 2 coats, so now I'm thinking a base coat of regular Steelflex and the the 2nd coat Super Slick to keep the cost down. Idk, I'm still debating it. Sent from my SM-G955W using...

Interesting, did you prime before you painted Tinny? Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Well I might need to go with the Gluvit after all, I'm up in Canada and can't find anyone who ships it here :( I'm waiting a few companies to get back to me but it's not looking good. My best chance seems to be a company on ebay buy they jack the price up quite a bit. I was leaning towards the...

So I just got off the phone with Fasco tech support and they said: 1. As long as the boat is sanded down good and is rough, I don't need a primer. I'm wire brushing the whole boat, so I think I'm good. 2. The Steel Flex is pretty thick and will cover rivits and seams very well, and stop leaks...

That's pretty cool DaleH, thanks! I'll have to reconsider what I'm gonna do. Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

Ya I just discovered G-flex today and am considering it. I like the Steel Flex too especially since I can get pigments. It looks like I could just do 2 coats of it on bare aluminum and be done. Would you still use G-flex on the rivits and seams before painting on the Steel Flex? Thanks DaleH...

That's an interesting idea, I've never done that before. Would you just do them all? I don't really see any that are lose at all. I actually think the leak is coming in from a seam. Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

I'm grinding down my 14 Ft V bottom boat right now to bare aluminum so that I can put Gluvit on all the seams and rivits. I definitely plan on priming and painting the top side down to the 1st rib but I'm debating on leaving the bottom bare for now. Mostly so that I'll be able to monitor how the...

What did you use to paint overtop of the gluvit Jmar? Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk