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Wow that looks awesome! Love the polished stripe.

As others have said, "weld" is a strong word. I have to think these are brazing rods. Find for plugging a leak, but I wouldn't use for anything structural. You you have MIG capability, do you have a spool gun? With that and some 100% argon (vs 75/25 for steel) you're good to go.

16' Ouachita. Replaced transom and added jack plate and a compression plate on the motor. Been a great duck hunting boat!

That's a great looking hull. I bet it rides well.

The pics are a little deceiving- the dents are definitely bowed up in between the ribs, not pushed down. Though the same principle would apply just the other direction, right? Bucking bar on the bottom tight against the ribs, dead blow inside.

Nice. You have a thread on it? Also, did I read you're doing transom pods?

Definitely foam sheets. Do the pink hardware store sheets soak up any water?

Hey I don't care what the bottom looks like. Not at all! I just want the prop to have some decent water to run in, and I want a little protection for the hull, as I'm always in shallow water. But, it sounds like what I'm hearing is that the dents on the bottom just don't matter, and if that's...

About a year ago I snagged this 2006 15' Lakesport for cheap. It was side console with a 50 hp 1973 Evinrude Lark motor. At the time I didn't know anything about the motor but figured the boat was cheaper than if I bought the aluminum and started from scratch. Turns out I'll get rid of the motor...

Why not? I've read good things from guys who have used K5 Boat Coatings. As well as a few on an Alaska forum. I'll also mention it's possible to spray it with a glossy finish. It still has some texture, but it's definitely not like the stuff in actual beds.

I'm surprised to hear y'all say go for it as-is! They look pretty bad to me, but maybe it isn't worth the fix. This isn't a high-speed vessel...

Just a note to say I have that same hull and I love it! Never seen another like it, but I would sure love another with the same shape but wider beam and thicker metal. It’s just a super fun, sweet handling boat. And it’s gotten me out of some tougher water than I had any business being in.

Thanks. And that's a compression plate. I mainly duck hunt out of this in shallow water, and the plate lets me jack the motor up a bit more than an inch higher.

That's an idea for sure.

Reviving this old post back from the dead to share the transom repair, which has been rock solid so far! - cut out the corner braces and most of the inside of the transom - wood was replaced with two pieces of plywood, epoxied with fiberglass between - welded new corner braces - because I was...

This hull has big dents between every rib, and I'm not sure exactly how to fix these. It isn't going to be perfect. I'm hesitant to bang these out with a hammer, for fear of stressing the welds more than they've already been stressed. I have access to a polyurea sprayer (i.e. bed liner), and...

This would be easy enough. Fix busted and leaking rivets. Weld rib together. Scab in some reinforcement.

Thanks for the replies. This is helpful. I don't any issues with getting it welded up. In fact, I think that's probably the easiest method. But I've read so many posts on here with folks recommending replacing cracked ribs, not welding, because the metal near the welds in these thin ribs just...

This hull is super thin and flexes a lot. I'm afraid to weld anything to either the existing rib or the hull itself. But making that piece and riveting it might work. Still, if I could get away with flat bar for another year before this hull bites the dust I would do it.

Here you go. Looking from the side: Zoomed in on cracks in the middle: