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Looking for advice from those that have mounted swim ladders on their jon boats. I’m looking for a transom mounted safety ladder for my 1752 Blazer jon boat. Debating between two or three step and concerned about the 12 degree angle of my transom. Want the ladder to be near vertical when...

Just installed a Millennuim Pro-M (saltwater version) seat on my bow. First impressions are good. Went with the Pro-M over B-100 due to the former having adjustable back angle. The Pro-M sits a couple inches higher than the cheapo Wise seats that came on boat. Bought an 11 inch pin pedestal...

The video is basically the same setup/idea as my livewells except I just have one 3/4 inch hole in center of well. Still seems to me that since the boat is riding higher when planing that the level would drop at least partially and then refill when not planing. Guess they used a two inch...

Yes the tube is the same diameter for its entire length. You are correct that the well does not drain below the top of the tube. I've been using a manual bilge pump (that's for pumping water out of the bottom of a canoe) to get most of water out and a sponge to get the last 1/8 inch. The boat is...

My livewell fills by removing drain plug from 2 inch tall, 3/4 inch diameter pipe (not sure if its the right term but lets call it a standpipe) that extends thru bottom of boat (see pic above). When you remove the pug the well fills with water to level equal to water level outside of boat. My...

Your bilge pump idea sure beats my current bucket method (bail out about 1/2 to 3/4 of well water and refill with bails of fresh lake water every once in a while).

Sounds like a solid plan for aerating but on a hot summer day seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into livewell every once in a while to keep water temp down. Not sure how well that would work anyway due to high temp of surface water. Just a thought.

As I said above my well has a single inlet/outlet with plug, a short tube (3/4 inch?) located at bottom center. Tube exits thru bottom of boat. There are no other openings other than the lid. It fills to level of displaced water when you pull the plug. There are no pumps/aerators or overflow...

I recently bought my first boat. I got an aluminum 1752 flat bottom side console jon (Blazer Jet boat). Boat has two livewells, one under passenger and one under helm seats. Livewells don’t have any kind of pump/aerator. They have a single standpipe in the center of each tank. Has a plug that...

I just added a swim ladder to my 1752 Standard Blazer. I had total replacements on my left hip and right knee a few yrs ago. My balance is not what it was pre-surguries. Im 60+ and not in the best of shape. Was concerned about falling overboard and then being able to get back in the boat after a...

Just finished putting Tuff Coat on the front deck of my new Blazer. Happy with the way it looks. Hope it last a few years. Went on pretty well but was a fair amount of prep work.

DaleH do you know anything about Tef Gel (https://www.ultratef-gel.com/tef-gel-product-reviews/). I hear its a sticky coating that can be applied to stainless fasteners when used with aluminum. They claim it solves galvanic corrosion issues. Not sure if it works on screws or if it just gets...

DaleH thanks for your time and guidance. Just the kind of info i was looking for. Guess if I cant thru bolt to top of gunwale I could mount cleats to inside of vertical side wall inch or so below gunwale. If I go that route think I will use a piece of aluminum bar stock (around 1/16" - 1/8")...

I dont have access to the boat right now. Having a hard time finding sample picture. I attached a image of a canoe with very similar gunwale. Its flat on top rather than round like a pipe. Its about 1 1/2" - 2" wide and about 3/4" - 1" thick. Look pretty much like the one in photo.

What is el tape? Only thing I can find is electroluminescent tape. Dont see how that would help. Must not be what you are talking about. If you have sacrificial anodes mounted in various spots is galvanic corrosion still an issue? Like the idea of adhesive-lined heat shrink. My issue is trying...

I just got a Blazer 1752 Standard with the flat heavy duty gunwales. I need to mount some cleats for docking etc. I originally planed to attach cleats using SS screws but I read that just attaching cleats to gunwales with SS screws is not a good idea. Better to use machine screws and nuts with...

Looks like that might work. Was kinda hoping to stick with 3/4" pin style to be consistent with rest of seats.

Looks like a very nice setup to me. Helps optimize available floor space compared to center console.

The only lock and swivel Ive seen is normally in the locked position and only swivels when you pull on a lever. Once you release the lever the swivel function locks. I want just the opposite. I want some thing that normally swivels until you lock it down.

Gonna have a boat built soon. Think Im gonna get a Blazer 1656 or 1756 with a Mercury 40 hp at pump. Would like to have forward center console but hate to sacrifice limited floor space. Anyone forward mount a side console? Would that work or would it cause weight distribution problems. Seems...