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Right off the bat the primer bulb does not stay hard while the engine is running. The bulb is on the suction side of the fuel pump so that is a non issue. Check your compression. The way you say it died does not sound good. What year is the engine and has the engine ever been serviced.....ie...

martin mcclimon Lives in terra ceia florida. That should narrow it.

Put a Thread sealant paste on the threads for reassembly. Loctite makes a good one for example. Great stuff for any thread below the waterline.

Easy way to see if the thermostat is working is to lay your hand on the top of the cylinder head at idle. You should be able to hold your hand there no longer that 3-5 seconds before it gets uncomfortably hot. That should be around 135f or so. The thermostat in this engine warms the powerhead...

Way to go, Mbullen !

Post more pics of this. Would like to see the mfr name plate for one. Does is say where it was manufactured?

Go in to the Fiberglassics site and see what you can dig up on it. They have a very extensive library on both Glass and aluminum boat manufacturers. https://www.fiberglassics.com/forum/main-forum.html

You may have flooded it. To check and clear a flooded situation you can advance the throttle and hit the starter without using the primer....be prepared to reduce throttle quickly once it fires. So far so good. You will get used to exactly how much prime the engine needs and when.

Usually any "portable" outboard has a fitting on it. Did you buy pre-owned?

Come on over to Tavares around March 20th for the big Sunnyland antique boat show. Biggest in the nation now. There are a lot of us that run vintage Alumacrafts and Feathercrafts with vintage engines. We will also have a meet on the Suwanee River the third week of April and September. We...

As has been mentioned you may need larger cable if running that far. Remember measuring the complete circuit? For simplicity sake lets say your boat is 14' so you would need a bare minimum of 28'. Take that # and plug in your initial starter load which will be in the neighborhood of a couple...

Checked out your work. Wow is about the best word to describe it. Well done on your part. I see you are in Florida?

There you go! In 1956 there was a one year only 30hp! Both the Johnson and Evinrude examples are really cool looking!

Factory cables are probably around 6ga or so. If making your own it never hurts to go to a larger ga. as it carries the electrical load better. Those little electrons only run on the outside of a conductor so the more wires and gauge size the better! There are many charts out there for 12V...

Scotch Brite is pretty rough on the aluminum. SOS pads and water is super fast and leaves a better finish on them. I have done three with this method. The pad will also let you know when to move on to the next area as it starts out difficult to move and as it breaks the film it gets super...

Now you will need a good 1959 35hp for that FD. They are a great choice for that boat. We have several down here running them.

Suffix letters, for the most part denote mid year changes. Your engine enjoys a plentiful parts supply. Always buy OEM when you can. Things like carb kits for example are not complete kits when going aftermarket nor is the fit the best in comparison. ' When searching parts, the parts reference...

Contact Marty McClimon on FB. He may be able to help with that.

Yes sir.....they were affectionately called "Knuckebusters" That particular design incorporated a spring at the bottom of the knob that retracted the knob as soon as you let go of it plus they designed the scalloped out recess to further lessen the chance of being caught by it. The originals...

And.....it is not a "new" design. Folding engines were produced off and on by Evinrude, Elto, and others from around 1929! Back then the engineering that went in to do that was all done by hand including drawings and calculations and the creation of each wood plug, then molds, etc. Here are two...