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Ok, 10 minutes worth of googling Polar Kraft Models and pictures... I have an idea. C-Jon Boat G-Coast Guard Bow S-15" transom (F-20" Transom)

So, the more I think about it, I'd bet PolarKraft used the flat bottom number because of the tunnel hull. With less engine below the hull profile, there may have been a stability concern?

Actually it is possible that your steering was added after the boat was built...

Im not entirely sure what CGS stands for exactly, other than I expect it has something to do with what some call the Coast Guard Bow? (Vee hull, square bow deck.)

Remote Steering and at least 20" Transom Height HP =(2 x Factor) -90 115 hp No remote steering or less than 20"...

Thanks for the advice… this is exactly my plan more or less! And yes the Honda is like 21.7 inches and the transom has a 15 degree rake which looses a little of the true vertical height. So there is a very good chance i might be using the plate in the end.

I checked the CG formula for my boat, and it comes to exactly 45 HP for 15" transom, and 13'11" long by 5'11" wide. Its the Coast Guard Rake hull that gives it the rating advantage. If it was a true flat bottom like the other 1451's PolarKraft made, it would spec out at 30HP with the CG formula.

So, yes that height will be the goal of the transom rebuild. If I can get the height I need, I'll leave the jack plate off, and have the tiller arm in a better location. Also in the mix is transom angle. Right now it is 15deg. 15 deg requires that I use the last locked down trim hole on the...

Well, I intend to rebuild and raise the transom, to raise the prop to a depth closer to the depth of the hull bottom. (2-3"). Are you saying that I need the jackplate offset so that the prop performs better because its spaced away from the turbulence at the back of the hull?

So, Im new to this, so this is an honest question... Why do I want setback?

Yeah, I hear ya,,, short and wide, I'm betting on a shallow draft for sure.

Im considering fixing the Honda, and raising the transom. The engine runs great, and its only $200 to get a new skeg welded on and blended / painted. The BF30A is only 157lbs and it is a whisper quiet 4stroke. The existing 15" transom is broken, and raising the motor height by removing the dip...

Still seems a little steep for a 14' jon...

Ideally, probably a short shaft 40hp tiller. Maybe 2 stroke.

I also checked the foam, and it all feels good except for the front, so the front bench will likely come out to address the foam, the eyelet, and the plywood.

And yeah, I like the open middle and the wide beam for such a small boat for sure.

The skeg is a big issue for sure. I haven't measured runout, but the shaft 'looks' straight, and the prop seems to spin smoothly. There is a good chance someone broke it off while towing. The engine will not tilt and lock up for towing OR down for reverse. Its a mess. Repairable, but a mess...

Just got an 85 PolarKraft. Its had a hard life... Presently it has a 1998 Honda BF30A on it that is 4" too long, even with the jack plate. The engine has a broken skeg. The transom wood is probably okish but the transom brackets are broken and the top of the transom is split as well...