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It's factory installed but doesn't seem like the smartest design.

I just noticed on my 1999 Lowe Roughneck project that the livewell drain is on the bottom of the boat. I'm setting it up with a 50/35 jet for shallow river fishing and I'm wondering if that drain will hold up to the abuse? Any opinions on whether or not to weld it up and reroute out the side of...

Anyone mind posting pics of their flat or satin green boats and what paint you used? Rustoleum, Krylon, Parkers, Totalboat, etc. Thanks in advance.

I just picked up a 1999 SeaArk 1652, it's all welded and built like tank. The only problem is like most old boats it's full of cut outs and screw holes. Rather than getting everything patched on the console I figured id neatly cut out large areas and replace it with panels made with whatever...

I'm getting ready to pick up a new Weldbilt boat and was thinking about a 1752 but started reading online and now I'm not sure if my motor is enough for this size? Maybe it's better suited on a 1648???

This will be under deck so no worries on UV light. I've never used the product but I've heard that you want it to penetrate seams so don't use it over paint or primer. Sand the aluminum with 80 grit then coat. I'm finding more and more posts about these boats leaking right at the keel due to the...

Well I think I answered my own question. I put water in the boat and slowly lowered the front of the boat allowing the water to slowly inch forward. Once it got to the factory caulk it began a small leak and once it reached the gap it was a waterfall.

Picked up a 1999 Alumacraft Lunker 165 dirt cheap but I knew the boat leaked as the previous owner had tried to spray the leaking area with a rubberized coating. Evidently this was an ongoing problem for the company for several years according to the internet but I've bucked and replaced brazier...

You can get 3/16 and 1/4 inch aluminum BRAZIER rivets from Granger. Boats use Brazier rivets usually in those two sizes. My boat has the 3/16 but when you remove some of the leaking rivets you will sometimes see the hole may not be perfectly round from the rivet movement wallowing them out from...

I got 3/16 and 1/4 Brazier Rivets (both 3/8 inch long) from Granger then ordered a 3/16 and 1/4 inch air hammer brazier rivet bits for my 83 sea nymph bass attacker. My boat has 3/16 rivets and some of the rivets are a tight fit and some holes are "wallowed" out so I will drill them to the 1/4...

Just gutted my 83 sea nymph bass attacker like that and it was nasty. I got some aluminum pontoon cleaner from a marine shop (acid) and it really cleaned the hell out of the boat. Ive used air craft stripper to remove stickers and old glue from foam and carpet but extra strength "goo gone"...

I've noticed on the early sea nymphs a lot of people go ahead and add a through the hull fitting on the side for the well to drain near the water level. I assume they have done this because the factory design wasn't very efficient.

By the way Ranchero, you have one of the coolest builds I've ever seen on this site. Very nice work.

Its in the dead middle of the boat and there appears to be a number of issues. The bass attackers have aluminum skeletons for the front and rear for decking but nothing in the middle which probably isnt that uncommon. The boat has been well used and could have been hit there plus the darn...

Its leaking...

Do a search for tempress hatches and liners. They are on the net in several places as well as on ebay. Can use them as dry storage or turn one into a livewell.

Heres a couple of pics

I have completely gutted my early 80's sea nymph bass attacker and found 3 cracked ribs in the bottom. The cracks are right at rivets and my question is should I drill the rivets out and put new ones in before welding up the cracks and rivets? Im afraid if I drill them out and then let them weld...

Thanks Cajun Special!!!

I'm sorry as I wasn't real clear. I can find barrier rivets but my problem is exactly what you stated and that's the lack of barrier set bits or setter. Found one on amazon.com but it was 52 dollars and they had a standard and modified bit.