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1978 Johnson 70hp being a bi**h
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<blockquote data-quote="wmk0002" data-source="post: 485044" data-attributes="member: 13975"><p>If you look in the last pic that metal piece that connects the linkage arm to the magneto is fixed length. So those screws you labeled are used to adjust the ignition timing at idle and WOT. When you adjust the bottom one it is changing the idle because as you retard the timing the rpms will drop and as you advance it they will climb. The actual idle (what opens the carb butterflies) is a separate adjustment. If you unscrewed the top timing advance stop screw in order to "open up the governor" you would be advancing the timing and, assuming timing was previously set correctly, you are prob a good bit over spec. I think you should definitely check that with a timing light. Advancing the timing too much at WOT can spell bad news especially if you pair that with a lean condition.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wmk0002, post: 485044, member: 13975"] If you look in the last pic that metal piece that connects the linkage arm to the magneto is fixed length. So those screws you labeled are used to adjust the ignition timing at idle and WOT. When you adjust the bottom one it is changing the idle because as you retard the timing the rpms will drop and as you advance it they will climb. The actual idle (what opens the carb butterflies) is a separate adjustment. If you unscrewed the top timing advance stop screw in order to "open up the governor" you would be advancing the timing and, assuming timing was previously set correctly, you are prob a good bit over spec. I think you should definitely check that with a timing light. Advancing the timing too much at WOT can spell bad news especially if you pair that with a lean condition. [/QUOTE]
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