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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2
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<blockquote data-quote="danmyersmn" data-source="post: 115806" data-attributes="member: 2096"><p>I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long. </p><p></p><p>I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive!</p><p></p><p>I think that everything has been tested enough to say that you should use steel flex on the outside, gluv-it on the inside and everything else is just sub-par to the two. I am the first person to give another option a try and see how it turns out; however, if you want to use something that works instead of pioneering something then we know what those are. </p><p></p><p>If it was mine I would gluv-it the inside and skip the steel-flex. I change my mind too many times on paint color to order the steel-flex before I am ready to put it on. #-o</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="danmyersmn, post: 115806, member: 2096"] I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long. I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive! I think that everything has been tested enough to say that you should use steel flex on the outside, gluv-it on the inside and everything else is just sub-par to the two. I am the first person to give another option a try and see how it turns out; however, if you want to use something that works instead of pioneering something then we know what those are. If it was mine I would gluv-it the inside and skip the steel-flex. I change my mind too many times on paint color to order the steel-flex before I am ready to put it on. #-o [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2
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